Fat Brian

I'm a bit younger than most of the regulars here so I missed a bunch of these kits the first go round. All of the AMT semi kits, the Super Boss, the Blazing Bison, these recent reissues are the first time I've been able to buy these kits off the shelf without paying ebay rates.

I got a Blazer to go with the one I've already got, a Mustang, and six Raminators. Then I got an L700, Charger, and two Rammuntions at the one in Gastonia. Today was a good day.

The one on 51 at Independence has a ton of Raminators and L700/40 Ford combos along with a new Charger but not much else, there was one MPC snap Blazer and a Connie Kalitta Mustang when I left plus some armor and planes.

Unless it was something that stays in your body like asbestos a one time exposure is unlikely to cause long term issues unless that one exposure was severe and caused serious damage. With chemicals like these it's the repeated exposures that have a cumulative effect. That said, your reaction was significant enough that I would consider changing what you clean your airbrush with to something safer.

I think that was in response to someone asking about the 1/32 snap kit that is being reissued wanting to know if it was the same as the Monogram kit.

Everyone is right, you can find the dimensions of just about any part online. Then just start reducing it to it's simplest shapes, just build a rectangle for the block and then start adding the ribs and bumps and whatever to it. Use kit parts when you can, all of the front and rear covers on my 4-53 are robbed from a kit 8v-71 because they look just like the real thing.

Where is the rack for the huge set of balls it would take to ride that trike?

There was a wise old king who said "There's nothing new under the sun".

That's why I wasn't sure what scale it was, the engine is almost as big as a 1/25 Cummins out of a semi truck. The thought of a 40s/50s hot rod or salt lakes car has crossed my mind but the logistics are still up in the air.

Thank you.

I got this straight 8 with dual overhead cams and a gear driven centrifugal supercharger already built in a trade. I have no idea where it came from or even what scale it is, guys, have at it.

Bill, you are so right about the automotive culture of the time. My dad bough his first car in 1974, it was a 68 Ford LTD with a 428CJ and the police interceptor package. When he was little older and making decent money he traded that car in on a new 1977 Pacer loaded with all the options. At the time this seemed like a logical decision and only in hindsight, knowing now how prized muscle cars are today, does it seem like something done by a mentally challenged person.

I built a 4-53 a while back, it wasn't too bad. You'll need the gear covers from an 8v-71 out of an AMT semi kit, the basic block is pretty easy to scratch together.

Thanks, Terry. That gives me some guidance.

I've ordered some of their axles and suspension parts, everything looked nice and the shipping was quick.

Like others have said, I was interested in mechanical things from very early. I had Matchbox cars and Tonka toys, I got my first Lego set at about four. My dad built models as a kid but stopped some time in his early twenties, his last kit was a Monogram IMSA Mustang. My first kit was a snap version of the USS Yorktown bought on the ship at Patriots Point in Charleston SC when I was seven or eight. Within a year or so I got my first car kit, Mark Martin's #6 Folgers Thunderbird. I think I used a whole tube of glue on it and once it was dry it didn't last long as I barrel rolled it down our hallway mimicking NASCAR crashes of the day. My dad gave me his old model stuff at this point and I built several more NASCAR kits along with some Lindberg tanks and the old Monogram A-10. I never really took a break though I've had periods where I couldn't really build due to living space.

Alright, thanks guys. I'll have to make some plans to get out there.

Why did I not know about this, I live like 20 minutes from Lincolnton!

That first one reminds me of the guys that do the lawn mower tractor pulls.

This is where someone else will have to help, you can brush it on straight from the bottle and it's self leveling to a point but it's too thick to airbrush straight and I don't know what you cut it with. There is a thread about it in the Tips and Tricks section.

I would try the first one in the clear bottle.

I've been through the spotter guide but it doesn't include the 350 model.

I'd like to build a 350 Pete and in looking at pictures there seems to be two cabs used, the 40's cab with the square corners on the inside of the windshields and a cab used in the 50's that looks very much like the Unilite cab with thick window gaskets and a prominent drip rail around the cab. Is the Cali Hauler cab close enough to be backdated to a mid fifties model by adding the drip rail and wider gaskets? It doesn't have to be 100% accurate as the truck will be a custom unit but close would be nice. 40's cab with square inner windshield corners https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5460/9863690975_700484c333_b.jpg 50's cab with wide gaskets and drip rail https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7168/6781679081_d8eef12cd8_z.jpg

I think it's still called Pledge with Future Shine.

You would have to do a lot of modifying to the 84 chassis, the fender wells are molded to the frame on the 84 but are molded to the cab of the 72 one set will have to go. Plus, the suspension parts in the 84 aren't that great anyway. If you have a Blazer to spare or don't mind picking up a donor and are going for a pretty stock ride height I would start with it's chassis and stretch it to fit.