Fat Brian

Man, I am disappointed this doesn't have both sets of wheels and has those sad tires in it.

The new Revell 71 Bronco and Moebius 72 F-100 both have great 302's with the stock stamped valve covers but neither have the script as far as I can tell.

If I remember correctly you have to take a bit out of the windshield at the bottom of the vent windows because the MPC interior tub has a bump on each side where the ends of the dash rest, you can also round off the ends of the dash so you don't have to take so much out of the glass.

I buy my chain at Michael's or Hobby Lobby in the jewelry section, they sell it in a few different sizes. Just be sure to get the kind with the links the correct shape.

If someone who can still find them would pick me up one I'd appreciate it, they never made it to my usual sources in my area.

Man I love those CL's, I guess I'm going to have to save my pennies for a resin one.

The Fallout video game franchise takes place in an alternate future in which scientists of the 40's were able to harness nuclear power and make all of the wild atomic ideas of the 50's a reality. They have some very interesting ideas about what a nuclear car would look like.

I never really owned anything classic but I do miss my 95 SC300, that car was going places but I ended up having to sell it. My only regrettable near miss was a 70 Impala two door hard top, it was perfect but I couldn't get the cash together.

You could get the 12v71 from the Super Boss kit and have all the extra parts and pieces to work with though the turbo setup will most likely not fit under the cab over dog house. The 12v71 won't be any longer that the inline six already in the K100, just a bit wider.

There are different versions with different ratings, the most common 8 bag setup (called Airglide in Kenworth speak) is rated at around 40,000 pounds but they make units capable of nearly 70,000 pounds. The snap kit most likely has the standard 40k setup which would work for a smaller dump truck but not for any of the mixers out there in kit form though you could scratch slightly smaller one if you wanted.

Wow, I was going to scratch build one of these for a project but not now. That s a very nice piece.

Moebius has two versions of their 53' trailer, a smooth side and one with slightly corrugated sides. It's 1/25 scale but the difference is pretty small on such a huge piece.

When I was a kid I bought a model of the USS Yorktown in the gift shop aboard the USS Yorktown at Patriot's Point in Charleston, South Carolina.

Okay, I'm going to take a stab at this. I think you have a combination of two engines there, most of the lower part of the engine is the chrome FE motor from a Lindberg issue of the 34 Ford wrecker which explains the chrome plated yellow plastic. The valve covers appear to be the Buick nailhead parts from the AMT 40 Fords kits and are incorrect for the Ford block and heads.

Do you have to add the lower port to an existing piece or could you just make the whole thing up? I would use a size in size tee fitting for the lower connection and then just an ell for the upper one.

You can still run whatever lines you can still get to, you will probably have to touch up the paint at the attachment points though. You can't spray dull over the glass, it will make it look frosted and definitely not clear.

It's all white, mine is black and red because it's the 2005 RoG issue.

The reissue is the flat top as Force said, I paid out the hiney for themost recent issue Aerodyne version.

The 8v92T from the AMT Papa truck kit is correct. The Revell kit comes with that twin turbo Cummins, if you make it a single turbo I'm sure it would be fine along with the 3406 from the snap kits. At that point the only difference between the Aussie and US version looks to be that the Aussie truck keeps the little vent that that the US version loses when it gets the vent over the right side headlights.

I made the upper corners of the grill more square and made the square bezels that will eventually go in the new square headlight surrounds. The only other major difference for early and mid production E's is that the cab went for 108" to 110" but I don't think I'm going to cut the cab up for 3/32 of an inch difference. The late production E's also had the front axle set back three or four inches due to new and better front springs so they redesigned the way the rubber drip rail curves down at the front. If there's enough interest I will see about getting them cast. Early/Mid Late

I don't know if I'm going to finish the whole kit right now but I wanted to show what I've been working on lately. I'm about halfway done with these, the biggest thing left is making the recessed area the headlight bezels sit in.

The T bird also changed body styles between 88 and 89 and the new body was supposed to be more aerodynamic. 88 89

I can't get you a specific measurement but I can tell you the headlights that car uses are 6 1/2 inches wide and 4 1/4 inches tall. Now that we've got some references it looks like the set back of the outer lights is about 2 1/2 inches. If you cast those I'd be in for a couple of pairs, I've got a couple of those kits I want to fix a bit as well.

Gary's email is still the same, he only takes orders and payments through snail mail though so check or money order only.

I do my best to buy from Hobby Lobby with their 40% off coupon but several kits I really want didn't end up there so I'm going to have to bite the bullet I guess. I do a lot of kitbashing so sometimes one build required several kits to complete so I do everything I can to find my donor kits cheaply. When I have to pay full price for a kit it definitely limits the number that I end up with.