Fat Brian

Yep, the kit would be so much more versatile as a regular L.

I built the auxiliary transmission last night, it's upside down in the pic. The top will be hidden by the sleeper so I didn't detail it.

Jim is correct about the engine. That kind of multiple turbo setup might be plausible on a pulling truck or tractor but usually in those applications the turbos are paired where a smaller turbo uses the exhaust to spool up a larger turbo that is connected to the intake.

Here is a pic of the actual truck for reference.

I really liked the idea of the truck, a simple, rugged truck that can survive in the harsh environment at the edge of civilization.

I think I might rob some out of one of the Mack kits out now, the real truck has big mismatched auxiliary tanks too so I've got a bit freedom.

I guess I'm far enough into this that it's going to get done. This build is inspired by the "King of Obsolete" L9000 that was on Ice Road Truckers a few seasons back though I'm making several changes. I lifted the truck a bit and added a sleeper, I'm also going to add an auxiliary transmission, at least one hydraulic winch, and a headache rack. Power is a non-turbo 8v-71 from the 4070A kit with the accessories moved around a bit, the cab and frame are from a Coke delivery truck shortened two or three inches. The wheels are also from the 4070 kit, the sleeper is from the GMC General kit, the rear suspension is from the California Hauler, and the hood is a resin piece from ebay. I bought it thinking it was a Plaskit piece but I fear it might be a copy. The color will be weathered black with gray wheels. I still have to pick the tanks and scare up a fifth wheel, along with building the headache rack.

There are different ways to pull, with torque or with horsepower. Modern pulling is governed by horsepower and for max horsepower you need high rpms which means high wheel speed, that's why they use cut tires so as to not take too big of a bite. Farm tractors pull with torque which means they need big cleats on the tires to transfer the engine power and if the tires spin you lose pulling power. Go to youtube and find the channel Pulling Reference, if you watch the really old videos from the early to mid Eighties they will talk sometimes about the different tractors and how they are setup for either wheel speed or torque.

Here is a pic of the body. I cut each rear fender off along the crest of the bulge and added a 1/8th strip to widen the rear end, it's also chopped about an 1/8th, and I added some plastic tubing around the headlights to french them.

Okay, that's encouraging. I've widened the rear fenders on my kit already so the eldo swap might be even easier.

Thanks for the detailed pictures Steve, I can hear my wallet crying already.

The one in Gastonia NC has both the F&F and stock kits.

Has anyone tried to put the Foose Eldorod kit into the new 50 Olds? I was going to use Boyd Smoothster chassis parts for a modern custom but the Eldo looks like it might be a much easier swap and it has a modern interior that might fit as well.

Can you tell what parts are new/retooled compared to the original kit?

For automotive stuff it's only 1/24 and 1/25, I've built a 1/16 kit but it was a commission build. For armor and aircraft I've got 1/72, 1/48, and 1/35 and one ship that's a 1/700 something.

The "frame" is just a flat plate that the front suspension, engine, and interior sides attach to. It's not like a NASCAR style kit or a drag car with a full chassis and removable body, there's just enough detail to be able to open the rear but not much more.

That would look right at home in the Fallout universe.

Years ago we used to refer to 1:1 vehicles as "real" when discussing models but then some people got offended and claimed that models are real too so that is when the 1:1 thing started. I don't agree with it and feel it's needlessly pedantic but it seems to keep the peace.

That is a very nice build, I love what you did with the door panels.

I haven't worked in it in a while but I don't remember there being a glaringly obvious problem with it, I honestly haven't gotten too far into yet.

I've used the new AMT 67 Mustang chassis under the old 68 Shelby kit, the Revell 65 Impala chassis under the AMT 65 Pontiac 2+2, the AMT 70 Impala chassis under the 76 Caprice, and the AMT 71 Charger chassis under the MPC 71 Roadrunner and AMT 74 Roadrunner.

P&P used to make 54 grilles, there might be one still floating around.

Yeah, that ain't worth nothing, why don't you send it over to my house so I can toss it for you. Seriously though, those kits are pretty rare which is sad because they're the most accurate kit of the early 80's body style around. There is also a short bed dually and a step side version of those kits and they share some parts with the Revell sherriff's department Bronco. They are a bit simplistic but can be dressed up pretty easily.

The wrecker body actually adds a great deal of strength to the frame, especially if you attach them before painting so you can get a good weld. Do your best to put the joints in the frame under the wrecker body and make the contact points really strong.

Sometimes you can find the Can Do/Will Do wrecker body on ebay for a decent price, then all you need is the Kenworth kit of your choice and some Evergreen to stretch the chassis and a third axle.