Fat Brian

I know, the Lexus kit is pretty hard to find. If anyone has it I'd love to try to get the dash cast.

Are there any differences between the Fujimi 2.5 and 4.0 kits? I'm really looking for a 95/96 model because that's what my real SC300 was and it looks like the 4.0 kit has the secong gen bumper cover. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003982ALW/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=AI931RMV8EPMU&psc=1#

Yeah, I picked the Fujimi kit with the aftermarket BBS wheels a few years ago and now they want over $100 for that kit. Where does the Aoshima kit have body issues, it looks okay in the pics I can find? I'm combining my kit with a Tamiya Supra to convert it to right hand drive and give it some under good details.

I was hoping someone would have an opinion on which kit is better. I have a Fujimi Soarer and it's very nice but they're getting expensive compared to the Aoshima version.

I think I'm going to throw my hat in the ring on this one. I'm doing the AMT 77 Mustang II with donor parts from I think a Revell Mustang of similar vintage with the 240 straight six from the Moebius 69 F-100. The engine is going to get a turbo and modern electronics and I will scare up some tunery style wheels from somewhere.

The Latham supercharger can't move enough air to provide any boost to an engine as big as the Allison. At stock gearing a GM 8-71 blower provided roughly atmospheric pressure to a 568 cubic inch engine, it would take three 8-71 blowers to do the same for the 1710 cubic inch Allison. You're best bet for adding power to the Allison is one of the turbo setups Bill posted, look up pulling tractors and power boat racers for ideas for designs.

Great, thank you. I knew I couldn't be the only one irritated by that part.

Gary only accepts checks or money orders so the only way to order is snail mail but the products are worth the effort.

I love this kit but that flat grille bothers me so bad. I know it's a small thing but it irks me.

To add even more confusion to the engine color question most of these trucks could be purchased as a "glider" without an engine or transmission. When the truck was eventually finished there's no telling what color the engine could be. Also, if an engine is extensively rebuilt enough the engine shop will usually repaint the engine then as well, usually the factory color but sometimes not. When I built a very worn and weary 359 I painted an engine that would have come white as tan to represent it having had at least one major overhaul in it's life. The moral of the story is, you can find a reason for an engine to be just about any color as long as you have a good story behind it.

I'm doing my best, it's 8 degrees this morning. Yeah, twice into the stripper is unusual for me, normally I'd just buy another kit and start with a fresh body.

I'm working on a L9000 and used the Able Body sleeper from the GMC General kit. I didn't want to use something identifiable as a Peterbilt or Kenworth unit. I made mine a crawl through, I didnt look to see if a walkthrough was available.

This one has to go back in the stripper again, the second coat wrinkled on me. I don't know if it's the cold or what but I'm going to switch paints too.

In a new endeavor in self flagellation I've come up with a way to make tire cables out of small jewelry chain and guitar string. I've had to order some cheap bulk strings to get enough for all four wheels so it will be a while yet until I can finish this, hopefully the weather will clear so I can get some painting done.

Warren is right about the CUCV, it's probably the easiest to do. Get the Deserter kit that's out now and a resin long bed from Kris Morgan, there are great threads on military model forums about some of the changes that need to be made. If you're feeling more ambitious you could use the soon to be reissued Jeep J10 and snowmobile kit to make an M715. For heavy trucks, if you can find a Freightliner FLD 120 kit you can make a military style prime mover.

I'm really happy with it so far, it's been an interesting build.

Now that the paint is dry enough I tacked everything together to make sure it's got the look I'm going for. I'm going to have to strip the cab and sleeper, cheap paint betrayed me.

Thank you, they were quite a pain to do but are a nice touch.

With the paint drying on the major sub-assemblies its time for details, the dash is almost done except for dry brushing the gauges and a few other things. Because I secretly hate myself I also made functional rain caps for the stacks.

No word on a release date but the mold is pretty much ready to go.

Isn't the AMT engine an 8v92T in the Aerodyne kit?

I think I've finally got the tank and battery box arrangement fixed. I also got the cab and sleeper supports done.

The lowboy trailer has already been out and is still easy to find.

Yep, the kit would be so much more versatile as a regular L.