Fat Brian

The squarish wheel opening reminds of a Reading body but Reading, Knapheide, and Omaha bodies all look pretty much the same. There's only so much personality you can put in a bunch of flat sheet metal.

Thanks, I'm going to try.

The Revell vans are also 1/24 scale while the AMT kits are 1/25.

Thanks, when I saw the real car there was no way I couldn't attempt something like it. I'm not going to copy it exactly but use it for inspiration. Here's a pic of the real one.

I was just having a nice and simple fun build, I was almost ready for paint even, and them HE came. I swear I couldn't stop him Doc, he just kept cutting and cutting! Now there's parts and pieces everywhere and all this mess to be cleaned up. You believe me don't you Doc, you know I'm not crazy, right? It's him, it's always him I tell ya! _______________________________________ I was looking for modern paint styles to fit the look I wanted and saw a build done to a Mustang II I couldn't pass up so out came the knife and here we are. I took the wheel arches from a 2010 Mustang and replaced the existing ones. In doing so I also moved the rear wheels back about 1/8th of an inch, I also moved the front wheels forward about 3/8 of an inch adding about a foot to the wheelbase in total. Of course this will necessitate rebuilding the rear wheel wells I just finished and relocating the rear suspension but sacrifices had to be made. I'm also going to have to change the oil pan from front sump to rear sump to accommodate moving the front suspension that far forward. I'm also going to radically redesign the engine too, because why not just redo everything, right?

The reissue of the "WWII" jeep should still be pretty easy to find on ebay as well as the DOH Daisy jeep, I'm watching a few now that are pretty cheap. They aren't currently being produced but that doesn't mean they can't be found at a reasonable price.

The older style grille is also still in the kit along with the chrome bezels but not the head light lenses. There is also a set of Suburbanite stock size tires if you don't want the big lift.

I've got two so far and will get at least one more, I like it enough to build one pretty much out if the box but the others will be donors.

Get em fast, they'll be a collector's item. The ultra rare 69 Challenger.

I didn't realize the body is as close to stock as it is, I have a Model King one will be getting a couple more to build a stockish one.

Getting the faces good and flat helps keep the seams to a minimum, use a big wide file or you could even lay a sheet of sand paper on a table to clean them up. Use a brushable glue like Tenax or even Tamiya thin, the red tube glue will make a mess.

Now that the L9000 and Caddy are done I'm back on the Mustang again. I got the rear fender wells built and the back of the interior finished. Now if I can find some seats that fit I'll be in business. It ought not be too much longer before I can get some paint on this thing.

As long as the surface is shiny the type of clear shouldn't matter, honestly it doesn't even have to be clear, just shiny. I just had the same problem with a build that was a flat color, BMF doesn't like porous surfaces at all.

I understand, that's why I asked.

These are the last pics i took in 2015, if it's any further than this it isn't much.

Will you accept a partially started build? This might get me to finish my Titan 90.

It says they do auto detailing but they obviously have no business around cars.

That part of this kit could have been done much better, if I ever build another one in going to cut the painted parts off the grille piece and strip them and put them on the body before painting so it's a lot cleaner then foil the headlight bezels.

They're dragster parts but I'm not sure which kit, the long piece is the steering linkage and you've got a gear shift and some radius rods. They might be from one of the Garlits kits like the Wynns Jammer, they're not modern.

Yep, there is a ton of foil work in this car. What made it worse was that the paint is flat so it didn't stick very well but once you rubbed it down really good to cut it the adhesive stayed on the body so I had to rub it down with alcohol pads. I think I'm done with white paint jobs for a while. The interior is just a dead stock Cadillac pattern you could order from the factory, it fit the white and flames so we'll there wasn't any point in changing it.

This build was inspired by the steel wheels from the last issue of the Monogram 32 Ford roadster. I started figuring out what a Eldorado with steelies woukd look like, the lake pipes are from the 60 Starliner, the air cleaner is an old AMT part, and the flame decals are from the Revell 49 Mercury. Otherwise the build is stock out if the box, I lowered the car front and rear but left the rear up enough to get a nice rake. I didn't think I would ever get all the parts on this thing, the front bumper is 9 pieces, the rear bumper and tail lights total 17 pieces, the box just never seemed to get empty.

That looks a lot like the body to the MPC Dukes if Hazard Jeep.

The 60-66 Suburbans ran a Dana 44 in the front, you can get one in the new Bronco kits. You might gave to flip it over for the Chevy, Ford ran their front axles reverse rotation sometimes. Check out BNL Resin, they do a lot of 4x4 stuff. Here is a link to great article on 60-66 Subs. http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1603-last-of-the-chevy-highboys-1960-66

They're either at least 10" wide or have a crazy offset and they where white. You're close on the timeframe, this is my parents in 1978. In the larger picture you can see the Superdome in the background.

Okay, just let know what you come up with.