Fat Brian

Tell him just to hang on to it, eventually it will be "vintage".

Only by finishing kits will you build the skills to turn out better models. Seeing a build through to the end is a skill all to itself, I'm having to train myself to finish kits after years of jumping to another project when something got difficult on what I was working on. I made my peace long ago with the fact that not every build will be perfect but I can learn from the current build to make the next one better. Don't throw your stalled builds away, you can always revisit them with more skill or a renewed vision. I used to burn my messed up builds and lost many kits is love to have back.

Here's a link to the thread you were talking about.

This sounds like a job for clear epoxy, super strong and won't craze on the clear like super glue.

I think you and I are wanting to build the same truck. I haven't started yet but yours looks good, I'm waiting to see how you finish it.

It was $4 for the hood, $5 for the rear bumper, and $3 for the tail lights. Evidently l didn't get a front bumper but I can't imagine it'd be much more. Shipping on small stuff was just a few bucks, mine was more because I got a body too so I needed a bigger box.

They will, I just bought two sets of stock 72 bumpers and two GT hoods for a similar project a month ago.

That is a W900L conversion for the AMT T600 kit, that kit has the curved windshield where the Revell kit has the older V style windshield. I can't remember who made it but there should be two headlight bezels with it too.

The squarish wheel opening reminds of a Reading body but Reading, Knapheide, and Omaha bodies all look pretty much the same. There's only so much personality you can put in a bunch of flat sheet metal.

Thanks, I'm going to try.

The Revell vans are also 1/24 scale while the AMT kits are 1/25.

Thanks, when I saw the real car there was no way I couldn't attempt something like it. I'm not going to copy it exactly but use it for inspiration. Here's a pic of the real one.

I was just having a nice and simple fun build, I was almost ready for paint even, and them HE came. I swear I couldn't stop him Doc, he just kept cutting and cutting! Now there's parts and pieces everywhere and all this mess to be cleaned up. You believe me don't you Doc, you know I'm not crazy, right? It's him, it's always him I tell ya! _______________________________________ I was looking for modern paint styles to fit the look I wanted and saw a build done to a Mustang II I couldn't pass up so out came the knife and here we are. I took the wheel arches from a 2010 Mustang and replaced the existing ones. In doing so I also moved the rear wheels back about 1/8th of an inch, I also moved the front wheels forward about 3/8 of an inch adding about a foot to the wheelbase in total. Of course this will necessitate rebuilding the rear wheel wells I just finished and relocating the rear suspension but sacrifices had to be made. I'm also going to have to change the oil pan from front sump to rear sump to accommodate moving the front suspension that far forward. I'm also going to radically redesign the engine too, because why not just redo everything, right?

The reissue of the "WWII" jeep should still be pretty easy to find on ebay as well as the DOH Daisy jeep, I'm watching a few now that are pretty cheap. They aren't currently being produced but that doesn't mean they can't be found at a reasonable price.

The older style grille is also still in the kit along with the chrome bezels but not the head light lenses. There is also a set of Suburbanite stock size tires if you don't want the big lift.

I've got two so far and will get at least one more, I like it enough to build one pretty much out if the box but the others will be donors.

Get em fast, they'll be a collector's item. The ultra rare 69 Challenger.

I didn't realize the body is as close to stock as it is, I have a Model King one will be getting a couple more to build a stockish one.

Getting the faces good and flat helps keep the seams to a minimum, use a big wide file or you could even lay a sheet of sand paper on a table to clean them up. Use a brushable glue like Tenax or even Tamiya thin, the red tube glue will make a mess.

Now that the L9000 and Caddy are done I'm back on the Mustang again. I got the rear fender wells built and the back of the interior finished. Now if I can find some seats that fit I'll be in business. It ought not be too much longer before I can get some paint on this thing.

As long as the surface is shiny the type of clear shouldn't matter, honestly it doesn't even have to be clear, just shiny. I just had the same problem with a build that was a flat color, BMF doesn't like porous surfaces at all.

I understand, that's why I asked.

These are the last pics i took in 2015, if it's any further than this it isn't much.

Will you accept a partially started build? This might get me to finish my Titan 90.

It says they do auto detailing but they obviously have no business around cars.