Fat Brian

After some research the 350 is the way to go. The NTA series was a short lived and troubled branch on the Cummins tree that didn't last through the 70's. It's not an accurate choice for a 90's repower where a rebuilt NTC-350 is much more likely. What is the issue you're having getting the Cat in there because that's really the way to go.

The 370 is aftercooled versus the 350 have the turbo piped straight into the intake. Look up the power rating for each engine and specifically look at the torque rating at various rpms, that will tell the true story of which engine is the better puller.

If I remember correctly the chassis is longer than the opening left once the front and rear valances are attached and at the front the frame is underneath the body color part. There might be some creative trimming that could be done on the rear of the chassis so you can slide the front in under the installed valance and then pop the rear in. You would probably have to trim the rear wheel wells down so they don't stretch the body so much going in and trim the back edge of the chassis behind the fuel tank, just play with it and see if the mods are worth it. And if you go this way be sure to strengthen the mounting points of the valances so the don't pop loose when shoehorning the chassis in.

I'm still working on it, I sanded down the putty in the picture and shot it with white primer. More putty is coming to even out the top of the tanker before paint.

ETS 2 is pretty fun, I'm looking forward to ATS a lot. Here are some trucks I've owned in the game

There is an algae that excretes biodiesel after it breaks down whatever it's food source is.

Synthetic oil is still made from components of regular crude oil, it just has man made polymers and chemicals added to it to increase it's heat tolerance and help it keep it's lubricity at high temperatures. It's not like they're creating oil from something that's not oil in the first place, it's a not so slight abuse of the word "synthetic".

The poor fit of the tanker was overcome by cutting off most of the mounting tabs and making my own out of Evergreen and most of a tube of Squadron white putty. I'll probably will have to wait until the weekend to sand it to give it time to dry.

Yeah, otherwise you'd have to mask off every bit of the decals to get them flat again and with no coating over them even the weakest tape will lift them.

I bought the stacks off ebay and will be getting more, they really do look nice.

The frame and roof of the cab are Testors 50's Aqua and the rest of the cab will be white. The trailer will have the same colors but I haven't worked out the scheme yet. I'm still working out the interior colors as well.

If I were to start with a body already painted with the decals applied I would clear over the decals to protect them and then mask off everything but around the wheel wells and tail light panel. This way the decals will be shinier and more like the paint as well.

I roughed in the tanker today. IMC was an ambitious company, their kits are a strange mix of innovation and poor execution. This tanker was designed to be built either in a 20" or 36" version but the parts to extend it fit poorly. The design is ingenious with molded in ribs hiding the extension but the parts don't line up and leave about a 1/8 inch gap that needs to be addressed. I removed all of the ribs and filled the gaps so it will look smoother along with filling the sink marks left from braces molded into the inside of the tank. The trailer will run the same super singles and wheels as the truck, I'm look for some custom fenders for the truck and trailer. These are the fenders I'm looking for.

That's why I kept the Daytons, I can just swap the rings around and make them deeper.

Against my better judgement I'm going to start one of these things. I never finish the kit when I make a thread about it but I figured I'm far enough along with this one that I should be able to get it done. This is the Titan 90 from the most recent reissue, I kept the kit engine but reworked the stacks and added twin air intakes. I also added a few more air tanks on the passenger side to fill in the hole the stock air filter normally lives in. I swapped the walking beam rear for the airbags from the Revell snap Peterbilt and also will steal the fuel tanks from there as well. The wheels are the kit Dayton style setup with super singles from Bergens on ebay. The wheels will be painted 50's aqua like the frame and will keep the chrome rings, the cab will be white with an aqua roof and maybe some stockish stripes like the ones on the box in aqua. I haven't started on the trailer yet but it will have the same color scheme and super singles. I'm going to do some smoothing on the trailer to make it look a bit more modern as well.

It's a sticky area because you're dealing with multiple rights to a property. While a mostly defunct company like Johan is unlikely to sue to protect their copyright to a kit design and they would have a very hard time starting now because they have failed to defend themselves in similar circumstances for so long the car maker could still sue since you don't have license to reproduce their property. Part of the thing with copyright law is that you have to continuously defend that copyright for it to still be valid. Once you stop defending it it almost becomes in the public domain. The model companies have tacitly allowed so many entities copy their kits in whole or in part by not defending their copyright to a kit design that they will have a very difficult time proving that any one instance of reproduction is harmful to them where the others weren't. The car companies have so far mostly let the model aftermarket be but I do remember someone mentioning an instance where GMC made a company stop producing some version of one of their trucks.

You might have enough for both here. The TR has a v12 and the F40 has a v8. Look at #4, the four pieces with two holes look like intake or exhaust gaskets for a v8 while #3 is for a v12. #5 looks like more v8 parts since there is 8 of each part. Part #21 looks like exhaust system flanges, six of which would be used on the F40 to mate the muffler to the three exhaust outlets.

That makes me not feel bad for buying two of everything.

It's another of those mid-nineties toolings they've tweaked on a bit over the years. It's a very nice kit that's a fairly straight forward build if I remember correctly.

A good rule of thumb is to wait until you can't smell the paint anymore. Some people use a modified food dehydrator or a curing booth made with an incandescent light bulb to speed this process up.

I hadn't seen Tim post it but I had seen you link to it in another thread and I didn't want to seem to be taking credit for it.

I was just saying that if you can't sand around them and loose them it's not a big deal.

Here's a pic of the real trucks roof Chuck Most originally posted in another thread, the only rivets are a small strip in the center.

Two part epoxy type putties don't shrink which is great if you need a thick layer for a major fix. The cab seam can be done close enough that you don't need anything special. I use Squadron white putty for most of my filling needs and as long as you let it dry fully before sanding it shrinkage shouldn't be an issue. Also, the rivet detail on the cab is wrong so by losing you are improving the accuracy of the kit.

Sometimes transmissions were left manufacturer color and other times they were painted with the partially assembled frame, there was really no rhyme or reason as to why one truck was one way and another was the other. So with that being said it's hard to be "wrong" as long as you have a good explanation as to how it got that way.