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Fat Brian

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Everything posted by Fat Brian

  1. Not exactly a truck but I just picked up a 74 Dodge van in the old MPC Truckin' USA kit to use for my Rollin' Thunder replica.
  2. The kit you want was reissued not long ago, here is a pic of the box below. They also redid a 73 Mustang around the same time but it's a modified version and can't be built stock. The chassis in the 71 kit is pretty rough, no kit out there has a better one that would be accurate for the car but you could probably make something close from the Revell 70 Torino kit.
  3. Check out this link, go into the photo gallery for tons of pics. These are from the late 80's and early 90's. http://www.pulling-reference.com/ham91-mod.htm
  4. Thanks, I hope to have another update in a day or two.
  5. If you're new to modeling I would definitely start with the GTO, it's an easier build but still turns into a nice looking finished build.
  6. If you're brush painting it it's not a big deal, if you're spraying it it's better to err on the side of caution. Just about any base type cleaner shuold be okay, Super Clean, Purple Power, even dollar store LA's Totally Awesome should do the job.
  7. Depending on the carb I use Testors Aluminium or Gold, Model Master Chrome Silver, or a mix I made of 2/3 Chrome Silver and 1/3 Gold.
  8. The chrome rocker panels are options available on the stock car as part of the upgraded trim package. For an Eighties prostreet when everything was monochromatic they are a bit out of place. There is a more recent trend toward keeping the body more stock or at least having stock appearing moldings but really it's up to you. I don't think the rocker panels look bad if you keep the rest of the body mostly stock appearing.
  9. This is probably my oldest finished model, it's close to twenty years old now.
  10. If I remember correctly the rocker panels are optional on that kit so you can leave them off totally if you want.
  11. That's right, the difference is pretty minimal.
  12. Putty application part 2, the top of the tanker isn't flat and sanding off the primer showed the low spots which got a thin layer of filler to bring them up.
  13. After some research the 350 is the way to go. The NTA series was a short lived and troubled branch on the Cummins tree that didn't last through the 70's. It's not an accurate choice for a 90's repower where a rebuilt NTC-350 is much more likely. What is the issue you're having getting the Cat in there because that's really the way to go.
  14. The 370 is aftercooled versus the 350 have the turbo piped straight into the intake. Look up the power rating for each engine and specifically look at the torque rating at various rpms, that will tell the true story of which engine is the better puller.
  15. If I remember correctly the chassis is longer than the opening left once the front and rear valances are attached and at the front the frame is underneath the body color part. There might be some creative trimming that could be done on the rear of the chassis so you can slide the front in under the installed valance and then pop the rear in. You would probably have to trim the rear wheel wells down so they don't stretch the body so much going in and trim the back edge of the chassis behind the fuel tank, just play with it and see if the mods are worth it. And if you go this way be sure to strengthen the mounting points of the valances so the don't pop loose when shoehorning the chassis in.
  16. I'm still working on it, I sanded down the putty in the picture and shot it with white primer. More putty is coming to even out the top of the tanker before paint.
  17. ETS 2 is pretty fun, I'm looking forward to ATS a lot. Here are some trucks I've owned in the game
  18. There is an algae that excretes biodiesel after it breaks down whatever it's food source is.
  19. Synthetic oil is still made from components of regular crude oil, it just has man made polymers and chemicals added to it to increase it's heat tolerance and help it keep it's lubricity at high temperatures. It's not like they're creating oil from something that's not oil in the first place, it's a not so slight abuse of the word "synthetic".
  20. The poor fit of the tanker was overcome by cutting off most of the mounting tabs and making my own out of Evergreen and most of a tube of Squadron white putty. I'll probably will have to wait until the weekend to sand it to give it time to dry.
  21. Yeah, otherwise you'd have to mask off every bit of the decals to get them flat again and with no coating over them even the weakest tape will lift them.
  22. I bought the stacks off ebay and will be getting more, they really do look nice.
  23. The frame and roof of the cab are Testors 50's Aqua and the rest of the cab will be white. The trailer will have the same colors but I haven't worked out the scheme yet. I'm still working out the interior colors as well.
  24. If I were to start with a body already painted with the decals applied I would clear over the decals to protect them and then mask off everything but around the wheel wells and tail light panel. This way the decals will be shinier and more like the paint as well.
  25. I roughed in the tanker today. IMC was an ambitious company, their kits are a strange mix of innovation and poor execution. This tanker was designed to be built either in a 20" or 36" version but the parts to extend it fit poorly. The design is ingenious with molded in ribs hiding the extension but the parts don't line up and leave about a 1/8 inch gap that needs to be addressed. I removed all of the ribs and filled the gaps so it will look smoother along with filling the sink marks left from braces molded into the inside of the tank. The trailer will run the same super singles and wheels as the truck, I'm look for some custom fenders for the truck and trailer. These are the fenders I'm looking for.
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