Fat Brian

There is a build thread for this on Hanks truck forum that shows the master being built for this and the NHS-600 engine that goes with it. It looks to be a great kit and worth the money, I've considered getting one myself.

You also have to decide how you want your system to be designed if it's not replicating a stock setup. With twin turbos there are two different ways to plumb them. In most stock two turbo applications the turbos are the same size and both feed air into the intake. On the pulling circuit the turbos are often two differnt sizes with a stockish size turbo used to spool up a gigantic turbo. Ford even used this setup on the Powerstroke for a while. A small quick spooling turbo builds boost at low rpms to reduce turbo lag and as boost pressure increases some boost is diverted to begin spooling the big turbo for high rpm operation.

I use the Walmart gloss black in the blue cans, it says gloss but it has a nice satiny sheen. It doesn't cover the best and takes a few coats but it still does better than Krylon for me, it always crazes or wrinkles on me.

You can add more light coats to cover the black, it will build to a tone about like brushed aluminium on its own.

You might could also use a Munsters Koach kit but you would have to lower it.

Probably a little smaller than 1 millimeter. One full size inch is about one millimeter in 1/25 scale and most A/N fittings are 3/8 to 3/4 of an inch.

That is very nice, I spend about all day around these things and yours looks really good. It's a shame that such a well done kit isn't available anymore.

I'd be in if the price is do-able.

At least it is an easily obtainable kit and not some ebay royalty that will cost a fortune to replace.

Recheck my post, more searching turned up what it was.

It is a 1/50th scale diecast. http://www.dadscats.com/product223.html

That would be good, most sellers I find are from Hong Kong so I'm looking at about $20 a can.

I have used the clear flat and absolutely love it, if I could get it easier I would use it for everything. Since it is an acrylic you can also use it for a barrier coat for thinner based washes and as a base coat over vinyl parts. For any of my tank kits with vinyl tracks the tracks get a bath with this stuff and then I can use my regular paints for details the tracks without them staying sticky forever.

To me the 300 looks and feels like an AMT kit from when they were doing all their great late ninties and early 2000s kits.

The thing with these engines is that they were only really used in race cars so any mounting of accessories is usually a custom job. The alternator does mount down low on the passenger side, a standard 427 water pump bolts to the cam gear cover and there is a spacer on the crank to move it's pulley further forward. You could run the alternator belt as shown above and the blower belt over it, the snout on the blower has to be extended forward to line up with the pulleys.

I don't have it and as of right now don't plan on getting it, the hood would have to open for me to even be interested. I'm sure you can mix in plastic parts where ever you prefer and I'm not a huge fan of the tires either.

All standard non-aero Italeri sleepers are interchangeable, the openings are molded the same so they can change them around for different issues. Older versions of the FLC have a longer sleeper but no Italeri sleeper has a top like that. Your best bet is to get a loose sleeper off ebay and lengthen it and then raise the top and make the roof from scratch. Here is a loose sleeper I got a while back, I believe it came with both the FLC and Western Star at one time or another.

I am a meat popcicle.

Here are some pics of the AITM kit, it's pricey but considering what the Ertl kits go for on ebay and how much work goes into making them right this is probably the best way to go.

Thanks, I just trying to find a way to use the kit decals. My company changed our logo last year and we update our entire fleet to the new decals, we probably did several thousand vehicles in all so that is what promtped the question.

Since the markings appear to be more correct for a later model I have a question. When the agency in question changed the markings from the 70 style to the 74 style would they update the markings for any older cars they still had? Could this be built as a older car that was still around in 74/75, maybe with some wear and tear and such.

No release date yet, there doesn't seem to be even any test shots yet but it is in the works. Knowing Moebius it will be out when it's ready and it will be worth whatever time it takes.

I've never had the printing rub off but I have never handled them much, I'm sure with enough rubbing you can get it off.

What is underneath it? It sounds like the Bondo isn't able to adhere to whatever that orange stuff is. You might need to remove all of the Bondo down to that orange layer and primer over it then put the Bondo over the primer.

I got an AMT 75 Corvette off ebay, this is just about my favorite body style of vette with the cove rear window and without the chrome bumper. I'm going to combine this with the front and rear bumper covers from an 82 vette kit so I have the cove window with the molded in rear spoiler, a combo that was never offered from the factory, and the front air dam.