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Fat Brian

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Everything posted by Fat Brian

  1. The auto used on the 2.8 was a modified version of the 700R4, the bellhousing and the torque converter is smaller on the V6 version than the V8 one.
  2. Yep, if I ever get the money I want to put a 12V in my 88 Suburban. I would live to buy a military surplus 2 1/2 ton truck and sit the Sub body down on the Duece chassis, 12V, Rockwells, and all.
  3. The only thing is the bed is the length of a short bed.
  4. I still go to swap meets and things, the few that are driving distance from me anyway, but sometimes they don't have much to choose from. I recently drove over an hour to a show and returned with three quarters of my budget just because they didn't have many things I was looking for. Ebay is always open, it's free to browse, and if they don't have what you want just check back in a few days.
  5. The 12 valve is the first version of the Cummins 5.9 straight six that was used from the mid eighties until about 97/98 when the 24 valve came out. The 12V has two valves per cylinder and the 24V has 4 valves per cylinder. Most diesel performance guys prefer the 12V because it's all mechanical and the fuel pumps used were superior to the later 24V pumps. A guy I used to work with had a 96 Ram 3500 Daully 4x4 with a 12V that he had worked over in it. He put a governor spring kit in the fuel pump, switched the stock 180 injectors to 370 marine injectors, put on three piece exhaust manifold and a non wastegate turbo housing running to a 5 inch exhaust, cut a custom fuel plate, and a few other odds and ends. He was making well over 400hp and 1000lb.ft. of torque and could outrun almost everything in town.
  6. Yep, mine had them as well. A little white putty and they were gone but it does seem odd to have them on a new kit, but the entire hood is odd since it totally lacks any underside detail.
  7. The Revell 69 Daytona is lightyears ahead of the junk MPC/AMT kit. It's not even close. To make my 71 Daytona I used the nose from the MPC/AMT kit, it was about the only piece worth using in the whole kit.
  8. I would love one too but no one has mastered one yet. Someone did make a 6.7 common rail motor that was supposed to be cast but nothing has come of it.
  9. I have two of these in their boxes ready to be finished, one is the MPC 71 Road Runner that comes with the nose and wing and the other is a 71 Charger I have made a nose for from a Daytona. Don't forget that before NASCAR rained on Mopars parade they squashed the 427 Cammer motor in the early sixties.
  10. What year is the truck? We need some more info to be able to help.
  11. No, the one with the devil face is a five window, this is the one I'm talking about,
  12. The carb is a Rochester AA 2 barrel that was used for 49 and 50. Most places call it a backdraft carb but it seems to work like a regular downdraft 2 barrel except for the air entering from the back. The air cleaner is an old style oil bath filter. Here is thread from the H.A.M.B. that has a ton of Olds Rocket stuff, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149650
  13. Probably Revells 32 Tudor kit would be the best choice, it was recently out and probably still easy to find and it is a really nice kit.
  14. Personally, I love ebay. I've had a few bad experiences but overall the good of getting old stuff and scoring deals has far outweighed the bad. The biggest thing about ebay is knowing how to use it and knowing when you are close to overpaying for something, the few times I've been screwed I mostly did it to myself by either not reading the description thoroughly enough or overpaying for something by not knowing the market value of it.
  15. Thats how ours looked, it looks like the runners where the pump attaches to the block are longer than on the rugular engine. I will talk to our machanic and see what was going on.
  16. The engine is supposed to be a 454.
  17. I think the only change from the fifties style bed was that the top rail was flattened out at some point instead of having the angled rail from the fifties model. But this article in Hemmings seems to suggest that the angled rails were still used in 1971. http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/01/28/hemmings-find-of-the-day-1971-ford-f-250/
  18. I have the roof glued back together and ready for filler and a Boyd Smoothster on the way to donate it's drivetrain and maybe some other things depending on how it looks. When it gets here this should pick up again.
  19. There is also the 1/25 AMT Challenger.
  20. We used to used gas powered Topkicks at work with the 366 and 454 engines and both had the fan mounted off the water pump. The radiators are tall though. The transmission from the stock silverado won't cut it but you could add the Louisville transmission to a 454. Our Topkicks only had two front leafs per side but they were about three quarters of an inch thick each, the Ford is a heavier weight truck than the Topkicks are. To make it four wheel drive you can used the transfer case out of the old AMT Ford F-350 or the old Bigfoot kits, it won't be exactly right but it's not wrong as in too light weight. The lighter duty Topkicks like the 5500 use an NV273 transfer case which is the same one from an F-350 or Excursion.
  21. I need to give this stuff a try, I hate flocking because it constantly sheds and gets everywhere. Maybe this stuff will stay put better.
  22. That's the one, most people like Tamiya Deck Tan since it's very close to the actual color.
  23. It would most likely be the standard medium tan. To contribute to the list, the FLC, Ford 9000, Western Star, and Superliner all have the same engines.
  24. Yeah, the Revell kit is nice but you will pay a bunch for it. Just keep an eye out on ebay, they are on there a good bit and maybe you can catch one that gets missed. Here is one now: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150927280736?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
  25. I agree, a completed items search will get you in the ballpark for what a given kit goes for. Once you establish what a kit goes for you can bid better now that you know when you're going too high or you can grab a buy it now if it's close enough to the going auction price. I just won an International 4070A for $81 still in the shrink wrap, which is a great price overall. It usually goes for around $100, one is ending tonight and it will go for more than that for sure, the one I bid on ended early in the day on a workday which kind of surpresses your number of available bidders.
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