Fat Brian

Dullcote really hates high humidity and goes milky as a result. This is my favorite stuff for a flat clear, I know its expensive but its worth every penny. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MR-HOBBY-ACRYLIC-SPRAY-170ml-SUPER-CLEAR-FLAT-MATT-B514-/190508456293?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5b305965

Are those tires from a Hotwheels monster truck? I've considered the same thing but I'm glad someone tried it before me, the look really good.

I'm just spitballin' here, trying to ease dischord.

Maybe if there was a under glass section in the trucks section it would be more clear. The big rigs and light truck sections can be used like the workbench section in the cars area and all finished truck models can go in the truck specific under glass section.

It sounds like you are on the right track, the black should cover in a coat or two and after a little clear the seperation line should just about disappear.

It sounds kind of like Project Snowball, http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22638

Check out the Auslowe parts here, they seem to be having a clearance sale and the parts are made in Austrailia so shipping might not be as much. http://www.kitformservices.com/index.html

It really just depends on if there is money being made or not. I made the yellow truck a few years back and put it online for free and so far Ford hasn't come to break my legs. The video game community has built up an honor system of sharing free models and giving credit where credit is due, it will be interesting to see if the model community can do the same. I imagine if someone intends to profit from a model that licsensing would be an issue, like if Revell wants to make a model to sell online, but as long as you give it away for free they can't say a whole lot.

I can't draw or anything either but for making 3d models that isn't neccessary, the computer makes everything straight. You start with a 3 dimensional space with an X,Y, and Z axis and the space is measured in increments that are fractions of a foot. You then plot out your design and connect the points to make visible faces. Here is a different pic showing the grid in the background, you can even change the background to an image of what you are building so you can follow it as a guide.

I have been building 3d models for games for almost a decade now, hopefully most of the skills will be transferable. I built this a year or so ago, I would love to print it one day.

I hope as these machines become more common there would begin to be appropriate files available online. I'm sure the models have to be different from a game style model but how different and in what ways are still not widely known right now.

My mother-in-law? This looks really cool, I've never wanted to build a Lonestar until I saw the white wrecker above.

Come on man, sweet talk them grannies!

I am incredibly excited about 3d printing. Within five years most of us will be able to print our own kits at home. Imagine, instead of trading parts by mail or ordering online we could trade 3d files by email in minutes or buy that new kit and print it right in your house. No more buying a whole kit for the engine or wheels or messy resin casting, just print what you need. Your stash will be as much on a hard drive as in your spare room or basement. You want to modify a kit, chop the top, flare the fenders, tub it out? Do it in the computer and print it out perfect and ready to go. The possibilities are literally endless.

If you make nice with a cashier at Hobby Lobby, pay with cash, and go early in the morning when only one manager is on duty you can usually use as many coupons as you want. I've used as many as five at once, I had to do five seperate transactions, but I saved almost a hundred dollars in one whack too. If you frequent the same store you know who has been there a while, just chat her up and see if she will work with you.

For your roll back bed look up sstacey47 on here, he casts a resin roll back body that is highly acclaimed. I'm glad you liked the F-700, I want one too.

I tried to get some relief today but I didn't make it in time.

That's great, there is one on the bay closing tomorrow and it is still cheap, I might have to pick it up.

I saw this truck and grabbed a few pics of it, you don't see a lot of Diamond Reo's down here. This truck is a support truck for a well drilling rig, it carries the bore stems and other supplies.

I saw this truck today in a Lowe's parking lot, it's a support truck that works with the drill truck, this one carries the bore stems and other supplies.

Here is what it looks like, it's a tad out of scale but not too much. I found it one the model trian isle by the tiny trees. http://www.modelrectifier.com/search/product-view.asp?ID=11020

I would have to make him pay to ship it back too. If you only get your 19.99 back and then have to spend 7-10 to send the kit back you aren't whole, you are still out shipping. In this situation you shouldn't have to be liable for return postage since there misrepresenatation was so gross. If you do have to pay for postage I would grind the kit up in a food processor until it will fit in a small padded envelope so your shipping will only be a couple of bucks.

The other day I broke a personal knife handling rule of my own and put the knife point up sticking out of the box because I couldn't see what was on the bottom of the box and I didn't want to damage the glass or decals. Before long I reached across the box and got a good poke in the heel of my hand and then promptly turned the knife the correct way.

If you can live with it not being the exact right body Missing Link casts a 73-79 F700. The site says to use a F-350 kit to finish it, I would use a Louisville for the frame and such. http://www.missinglinkrc.com/70s_f700_2012.htm

Yeah, Asheville is the San Franciso of the east coast.