Fat Brian

I'm a big believer in BIN but sometimes you have to bid to get the best deals, if I can find a BIN for seems like a fair price I will jump on it though.

In my decade on evilbay I have learned a thing or two about how to win an auction. My first lesson was in the "sniper" technique, for three days I kept bidding on this kit I wanted trying to stay as the highest bidder only to have someone swoop in in the last 10 seonds to outbid me. Lesson learned, you only have to be the highest bidder when the auction ends. Since then I have refined my technique even further, I try to only seriously contend for auctions ending late at night or during work time. I also try to bid on auctions ending on Friday or Saturday night when most people are out doing other things. Tonight I won a Paystar dumptruck and mixer for a grand total of $67, not bad considering what they usually go for. So, what are you're strategies for scoring on the bay?

Here is my VW, it has the 350 from the USA-1 and the suspension from the old 1/32 Bigfoot.

A new Vette motor would look nice or the Ross Gibson 502.

The Monkey Mobile was based on a GTO and the GTO shares a platform with the Cutlass so everything should line up fairly close.

I think one of the issues is that different techniques work better for different colors. What works on white may not work for brown and so on. Dark colors probably look fine being done with straight black while it makes lighter color look cartoonish. Light colors need preshading or darkened body color washes to look more realistic.

I believe these wheels are from So Real Concepts, I have a few sets and they are pretty nice.

AMT and MPC were not the same when these kits were done and the engine doesn't have siamesed center exhaust ports, they are evenly spaced like a big block Chevy.

Mine does, I just picked it up a month or so ago. Maybe the early versions didn't but the one I have with the same box art has two sets of tires.

That's one way to make chicken salad out of chicken excrement.

You have to be careful when talking about AMT/MPC 53 Ford trucks. The MPC truck the thread is about is the flipnose version with the big block Chevy engine and wire wheels. The AMT version has the Firedome Eight and oxyacetylene tanks in it. The AMT is far superior, it's really not even close.

I really hate I missed this kit the last time it was out. My LHS had this and the Alpine Renault and I got the Alpine thinking I would come back for the Alfa but when I did it was gone.

I wouldn't mess up the Mustang kit to do it but a Ranchero gasser is a cool idea. You really shouldn't need to do anything to the bed, just radius the rear fenders and you will be fine. The AMT 33 Willys kit would get you everything you need and then some.

My wife would suffocate me with my pillow at night if she knew I had even thought about spending that kind of money on a kit. We only recently have been able to spend more than that on a real car.

I bought one of these a month or so ago and it had at least six instruction books in it. I have since traded it but I will buy another one. I was disappointed with the amount of flash the kit has now, I built the original issue of this kit and it was almost totally flash free. It's amazing the molds have worn so much and I hope it isn't a sign of things to come for all of the new, nice, AMT kits.

You might have to cut the letters out of a thin piece of sheet plastic with an exacto and then use that as the face of the bumper. The air filter looks great.

I just bought two of these at Hobby Lobby for $7 each. I had built it years ago when it was yellow on the box and had wire wheels and the up top.

Wow, see, I can't paint like that, that's why I was asking about decals.

Man, I can not get enough of this thing! Simply amazing. (When I posted this geetee66's 29 bobtail was the last post, odd?)

I believe that the Lindberg Crown Vic would be most accurately described as a curbside kit. It isn't really a snap tite but isn't a full detail kit either.

I have a queation about the Ford truck, how did you do that? I have thought about cutting the nose off of a Bigfoot cab and mating it to a 92-96 cab but it looks like you took the Bigfoot cab and replaced the cut fenders with stock ones.

Since moving into the new house I don't have a desk set up for myself yet so my current workspace is a recliner with a rolling laptop table to work on and it's messy around that too. If I'm working on something that is fairly kit stock the mess isn't so bad, but when I need to find specific parts from other kits and this or am looking for suitable donor parts the extra kits tend to pile up around my chair.

The kit transmission is a C6 so it would be correct for just about all Ford trucks of the day.

Kitbashing is where I spend most of my money, when you combine parts from a half a dozen kits things start to get pricey.

And those carbs are almost twenty years old, they come in a lot of Revell kits in both a two piece and one piece variety.