Fat Brian

Depending on your budget you could rent a small climate controlled storage unit for your model stuff. Uhaul has built places all over my area offering 8x10 up to about 10x20 indoor storage units, I believe that the smaller units go for about $70 or so a month which may be cheap insurance that nothing will get ruined depending on your collection. One thing about storing models outside in the south is humidity, I have had to store outside and as long as the building isn't in the direct blazing sun all day and has a decent amount of ventilation I have not seen any warpage even with temps up into the 90's but the decals suffered. If you do end up storing outdoors I would collect all of the decals from the kits and put them in a container and bring them with you inside. It also helps if your outbuilding is white, it keeps the inside temps down substantially.

Here's a better pic of the truck, I think bass boaty will be just about right.

I've always wanted to build one of these with a 302 in the front.

Once I got a few variations saved I always have one that will work even if it isn't the exact max size limit. I seem to travel in the same internet circles some times so my little chubby woman has become sort of a calling card so I doubt I will be changing her any time soon.

Don't cheap out and use low grade white paint. The cheap stuff yellows over time and will ruin your build.

I have four or five versions of mine created for different forum requirements, I use the same avatar on at least 95% of the forums I'm on so now I only have to browse to the correctly sized file upload it.

Yeah, I know. My job is a cruel joke played upon me, made possible by my lack of formal education. In all actuality, my job isn't bad but it does put me outside far more than I ever wanted. Heat is the natural enemy of the fat person and sometimes I really suffer in the summer. But it also allows me to drive around town and blow my paycheck at Hobby Lobby and Hobbytown and Micheals so it's kind of a wash.

I don't understand only being interested in one kind of model. I can appreciate a well done build even if it's a subject I wouldn't do myself. Some of you guys make it sound like having to maybe look at something other than your chosen genre is like stepping in dog poop. Is there a way to tag a thread as being part of a given category? On a site I'm on for game modding the downloadable vehicles are all in one section but in addition to the thread title you have to choose from a list of catagories what kind of vehicle it is. There could be catagories like stock, muscle car, custom, drag, pro street, truck, semi, rat rod, NASCAR, and so on. That way you can easily identify what kind of vehicle a thread is about even if the description is vague.

I can understand that, I hate outside.

Yeah, Bearfoot will be pretty easy. I really want to do Michigan Ice Monster but there is no way I can paint that.

I've had the best success stripping the One Coat Laquer with brake fluid (fluid NOT cleaner, cleaner will destroyer your car). None of the water based strippers like Purple Power, Super Clean, or LA's Totally Awesome have really made a dent in it. I have had moderate success with straight 91% alcohol, but it only seems to soften the paint without really removing it.

Maybe break off "under glass" into it's own heading like the general section and make the tag line something like "For completed auto related models of all types". That way the tag line is broad enough to capture all of the different branches of models here while still leaving non-auto stuff to the "everything else" section.

I have a few myself and want a few more, they are definitely an achievement. I wish that Fujimi had at least kept on putting engines in their cars even if the backed off on the parts count.

Very interesting, I've been intending to put an engine in the Tom's Supra for a while now and just haven't got around to it. I see you changed the cowl, how much else needed modding?

No problem, it's not my topic anyway I'm just trying to help.

Those are amazing!

How you cut depends on what brand of truck you are building. Ford trucks add all of the extra length at the front of the bed ahead of the rear wheels. Chevy and GMC add about a foot to the front and a few inches in the rear. here are some examples of what I mean. Here are two Ford beds showing the extra length: Here is a long bed GMC I made from two Fall Guy trucks, I had to add to the front and rear of the bed: I used a long bed from the 72 Chevy kit to get the correct length and proportion:

Steam roller?

See, I wish they would do something about the autobidding sites. If you want something you should have to actually be present to bid on it. I always bid on things in person so I can see how the bidding going.

I will usually look at what a kit is going for in auctions and see if a BIN is close, if it's within five or ten bucks I will get the BIN just to not have to deal with bidding on it. I just bought two AMT 80s Broncos, the BIN was $23 which for a limited run kit that is four years old isn't bad and the aucioned ones weren't going any cheaper so i felt okay going for it.

I'm a big believer in BIN but sometimes you have to bid to get the best deals, if I can find a BIN for seems like a fair price I will jump on it though.

In my decade on evilbay I have learned a thing or two about how to win an auction. My first lesson was in the "sniper" technique, for three days I kept bidding on this kit I wanted trying to stay as the highest bidder only to have someone swoop in in the last 10 seonds to outbid me. Lesson learned, you only have to be the highest bidder when the auction ends. Since then I have refined my technique even further, I try to only seriously contend for auctions ending late at night or during work time. I also try to bid on auctions ending on Friday or Saturday night when most people are out doing other things. Tonight I won a Paystar dumptruck and mixer for a grand total of $67, not bad considering what they usually go for. So, what are you're strategies for scoring on the bay?

Here is my VW, it has the 350 from the USA-1 and the suspension from the old 1/32 Bigfoot.

A new Vette motor would look nice or the Ross Gibson 502.

The Monkey Mobile was based on a GTO and the GTO shares a platform with the Cutlass so everything should line up fairly close.