Lovefordgalaxie

Oh that poor baby... Change the tires and she'll run better than a new Chevy.

Remember, don't post any hints or answers here!!! PM me with the correct make and model of this beauty!!! Car ID par Túlio Lazzaroni Lovefordgalaxie, on ipernity The answer is: 1977/1978 Bianco S

For sure you get!!

Looks great, not so great as a stock '61, but great anyway!!

Guys, take a look at page four of the original thread I did for the car on Under Glass: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=85343 I gave it yet another coat of body color, and Now I think I got the solution. Now I'm building two models at once, another '57 and a '32 Ford, and I'll use Tamiya paint on both. Will do the Marcos Cruz technique on both and see what works better for me. That's no ordinary hair, that's a cat's hair Living in a house with 7 (yep, SEVEN) cats, I think I have cat's hair even on my brain.

At first I tried to wash the panel lines with a very dark version of the body color. It wasn't much realistic. Then I had the idea of washing the body color over that, and now it's a lot better. I'll do this on my next builds with automotive paint. 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

The picture I got from the video was inverted when posted to Photoshop. When realized that I "fixed" the Super Sonic steering wheel. See? Magic!!

I have a book with some pictures of a unrestored original '57, and for all details the colors are the same. DON'T TRUST RESTORED CARS AS REFERENCE!!!!

On the mechanical part of the Thunderbird, it's not that hard. The frame is semi gloss black. The rear end , rear springs, and front suspension is also semi gloss black. The spindles and the steering arms are bare steel. The driveshaft is bare steel, as is the manual transmission. The automatic Ford-O-Matic is aluminum. The bell housing was painted with the engine. The pulleys were gloss black. The exhaust manifolds were bare iron, as were the exhaust tubes. brake boost was gold, brake master cylinder was steel. Fuel pump was aluminum. Fuel filter was aluminum, with steel filter cup. Fuel lines were steel. carburetor, if Holley teapot was a goldish silver. If Autolite, was cast aluminum. Starter generator, and oil filter cartridge were black. On manual transmission cars, the bell housing lower cover was painted black. Mufflers were aluminum. radiator was semi gloss black. voltage regulator was blue. intake manifold on dual quad cars was bare aluminum. Engine compartment was body color. On the rear end, the gear housing was red oxide. the floor pan could be body color or red oxide primer with body color overspray Interior would be all red, red and white, all white, all black and black and white for your body color. Fuel tank was galvanized steel with black steel stripes to keep it on. wheels were painted black or silver from behind, and body color up front.

Was at YouTube right now taking a look at your other videos. They are all very cool. Do you know a guy called Toppervision? He also uploads some great material.

Great info there!!! This is my video on how to foil without BMF: Do you do it the same way Chris?

Now, with a coat of body color washed over the darker color: 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

I would love to know the reason.

Ending the segregation based on scale??? Example: 1/12 cars being posted on the same place as 1/25 cars. 1/8 cars WIPs being posted on the same section of 1/25 cars WIPs??? Got it?? If having a Big Boys section is so necessary, I suggest the creation of the tiny boyz section, for models smaller then 1/25 scale, and changing the name of the "Model Cars" section to "1/25 scale Model Cars", after all, big scale MODEL CARS are model cars too...

What about a pool to end the "Big Boyz" section? We as users have to have some power. Right?

Yep, I know about Marcos technique, and I have tried it, but automotive paint covers the accented lines completely. I did that to my Gunmetal gray '57, and well, the black disappeared under three coats of automotive paint, the were necessary to get to the correct tone, and to eliminate color variations on the body. I guess it will work with Tamiya laquers, or with modeling paint. The color I used on my '57 is Nitrocellulose lacquer automotive, and it covers very well. Maybe the car was better before the wash, that can be removed with ease with some windex.

This one sat for 25 + years. Hope to inspirate you a little!!! Abandoned Galaxie. by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

Around here we have the clear version of Vidrex (your Windex in the U.S.) but it costs more, and I have no idea why, and the regular product never interfered with the color of the paint at all, just like Chris said. I say go for what is cheaper, window cleaner or windshield washer fluid, and never bother about the blue tint on it. Use any of them with confidence, they won't affect your paint.

Before pictures here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=85343

I always thought that doing the panel lines wash made the model look kind of odd. The reason is that on a real car, the panel lines kid of have different shades as the depth of the metal that can be seen varies. For example, on a door, the front part uses to be more dark than the rear, because there is body color (door jamb) a lot closer to the surface of the separation line near the door and quarter panel. On the trunk the same happens. Even tough, I was looking at my Coral sand Ford, and it looked kind of artificial without a nice wash on the panel lines. On a '57 Ford, there are some panel lines that are there but are just joints between body parts and there is no gap to form a visible darker line, and looking to a 1:1 car they almost disappear from sight. Others, like the door lines, and the gap between the fenders and cowl are very visible. My '57 was kind of lacking that. So, I decided to do a wash. Mixed flat red, flat yellow, and flat black acrylics to get to a very dark "version" of the body color, and mixed Vidrex (Windex in the U.S.) to thin the color to the consistency of water. Then I just let capillarity to do the job. Now you say me: Is the bar better or worse?? 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr 1957 Ford Custom Tudor by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

Magic.

Did they land the car on it's side? Looks like the rear view mirror wasn't broken... Yet!!

Sorry, used the year on the video on the answer...

Great looking Model A Ford!!

OK, Tha car is a 1948 Fageol Super Sonic: Who got it right: Badluck13 Chillyb 1