Fujimi Dino 246 -- construction advice sought

[Matt Bacon]

Hi, all... looking for some advice. The Fujimi Dino 246 has a separate lower nose valance, which kinda "fits where it touches". The chassis won't go in with it in place, so the instructions have you add it last after the chassis is in. The problem is that there is no real panel line at the join:

What I'm wondering is, has anyone found a neat way to deal with this? I'm thinking that If I separate the chassis into two pieces, under the interior tub, I could get it in with the valance in place, by putting the rear end with tub in first, and then rotating the front part into position "up n'under" to glue into place on the base of the tub. Anyone tried that and discover that it won't work, or got an alternative plan that definitely does?

bestest,

M.

Edited March 14, 2015 by Matt Bacon

[Jeff Johnston]

It's been a while since I built this kit, but you can install that piece first. You can carefully slide the chassis into it. It takes some patience bit it definitely an be done.

[Matt Bacon]

Great! Thanks, Jeff... that was what I was hoping... Yours looks brilliant. I'm going for the ex-Keith Richards car, in silver also...

bestest,

M.

Edited March 15, 2015 by Matt Bacon

[Art Anderson]

I can second what Jeff advises, with this suggestion: Be sure you have good, strong glue joints at the front and rear valances, and as he said, carefully flex the chassis to get it into the nose of the car, and then flex it to get it inside the rear valance. Nose first, due to the deeper fit and then the rear of the chassis once the front is in place.

Art

[jaymcminn]

That was my suggestion too, Matt. It'll fit with a little persuasion. Just ignore the sound of creaking plastic and you'll be fine!

[Matt Bacon]

Thanks for the advice, guys. I think you must be talking about the "Enthusiast Model" version of the kit, because I've tried every which way with the kit I have and there is no way the chassis goes in intact. And that's just trying to get the single chassis piece into the body, without the tub or anything fitted to it. The front goes in deep but the chassis is about 1/4" wider at each side than the rectangular cut-out in the rear valance, and I can't twist it or bend it (both of which would be more difficult with the tub fixed in place) to go through that hole. However, there's an "obvious" cut line at the back of the tub, where the "curbside' lower part of the engine and rear suspension is. I think if I cut it there, after attaching some strip to the back of the tub to provide a solid fixing to rejoin the two parts, the rear end will go in after the front is in...

Film at 11, when I get up the nerve to cut it...

bestest,

M.

[jaymcminn]

Mine was the EM version, Matt. The instructions for that kit have you install the front valance after the chassis as well. Do you have the Circuit Wolf curbside release?

Edited March 18, 2015 by jaymcminn

[MonoPed]

I also have the EM version in progress and can fit the chassis in nose first. Do you have a pic of the curbside chassis?

[Matt Bacon]

Thanks, guys.. I will take some pics when I'm back at the workbench on Friday, I promise. I notice most of the EM series kits I've seen are the Targa-topped GTS. I wonder if that's more flexible than the solid-roofed version I have...

bestest,

M.

[MonoPed]

I built the hardtop version many years ago (destroyed in a shelf/gravity fight), I don't recall any real difference in fitting the chassis and interior tub into the body.

[afx]

My guess is its this kit. RS-19.

[Matt Bacon]

That's the boy!

I'm thinking of cutting it at the line separating the "engine bay" from the floor under the tub...

bestest,

M.

[MonoPed]

I think if you cut the rear portion of the inner fender off, leaving the "floor" with the muffler and the side braces intact, then it should fit in the car like the EM kit.