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Posted

Has anyone tried using bondic on a painted surface?

Has anybody noticed the name of the Bondic website: Not a Glue!  They have a nifty chart of what tasks Bondic can handle at Bondic-vs-glue . They also have an extensive FAQ page.  I recommend reading it. Here are few examples:

If applied to smooth surfaces it seems to come off in one piece or chipped off easily but what if the surface is rough?
The rougher the surface the better! Bondic® isn’t a glue, it has some adhesive properties but it sticks to smooth areas using a lot of surface tension rather than stickiness. If you can let the liquid Bondic® get into cracks and crevices then it will hold incredibly well.

Can Bondic® bond dissimilar materials. Specifically high impact polystyrene and sand paper?
It will work great in and on sandpaper and if you create some rough areas on the polystyrene that will allow the Bondic® to grip and you can get the LED UV light onto both, your good to go.

How well does Bondic® work PVC tubing, Kevlar, or polypropylene?
Bondic® works very well PVC tubing, Kevlar, and polypropylene, you just need to follow our principles. The principle of sealing or attaching things with Bondic® is based on how the surface is prepared and generally you want to make a ring around the item to create strength. Sometimes you even drill holes in both surfaces to create extra strength

Posted

It actually gets very slight amber tint after it sets, but still passable for clear resin.

That's not been my experience, Peter.  I did some clear "lenses" over molded-in-place chrome headlights on a couple of grilles about 9 months ago, they are still water-clear.

Art

Posted

That's not been my experience, Peter.  I did some clear "lenses" over molded-in-place chrome headlights on a couple of grilles about 9 months ago, they are still water-clear.

Art

Place a small puddle (about 1/4" diameter) on a piece of white paper (ink jet or laser printer paper). Don't make it too thin ( around 1/16" or a bit less). When in its liquid state it is perfectly colorless. Set it with the UV light. After it is set you can see that it picked up very slight amber tint. Very slight, but noticeable sitting on the white paper. At least that has been my experience.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Place a small puddle (about 1/4" diameter) on a piece of white paper (ink jet or laser printer paper). Don't make it too thin ( around 1/16" or a bit less). When in its liquid state it is perfectly colorless. Set it with the UV light. After it is set you can see that it picked up very slight amber tint. Very slight, but noticeable sitting on the white paper. At least that has been my experience.

I see that amber tint also. Some have said Laser Bond is clearer but I haven't tried it to see the difference.

  • 7 months later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

A little addition: You can tint Bondic! I used Alumilite clear red dye and it seems to work quite well; a tiny amount goes a LONG way. As a test I put down a 1/8" drop of Bondic, then I opened the sealed bottle of dye with a poke from an X-acto knife. This left a 1/16" smear on the tip of the blade; I stirred it in and it immediately mixed and turned the Bondic a nice dark ruby red. Gave it a ten-second shot with the UV and it solidified OK. Looks just as good as any AMT taillight (and better than a lot of Jo-Han ones :D).

Posted

A little addition: You can tint Bondic! I used Alumilite clear red dye and it seems to work quite well; a tiny amount goes a LONG way. As a test I put down a 1/8" drop of Bondic, then I opened the sealed bottle of dye with a poke from an X-acto knife. This left a 1/16" smear on the tip of the blade; I stirred it in and it immediately mixed and turned the Bondic a nice dark ruby red. Gave it a ten-second shot with the UV and it solidified OK. Looks just as good as any AMT taillight (and better than a lot of Jo-Han ones :D).

Oh cool!  I've been using Sharpies on the lights I've made. Looks like about $10 for a 1 oz.

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