Removing Tamiya Tape residue

[aurfalien]

Hi,

Before I mess up a very hard earned paint job, I was wondering what you all remove Tamiya Tape residue with?

I was gonna wet sand with 12000 grit cloth or just rub it off gently with a very soft cloth.

At least the tape didn't pull up paint with it which I had happen to me when using regular masking tape, OMG what a nightmare that was!

Edited April 30, 2015 by aurfalien

[jwrass]

Brian,

Just take your thumb or index finger and rub on it, It should roll up in little balls.

Tamiya, The brand everyone raves about!!!! the only thing I use of theirs is their glue. Their are so many great automotive products that people can buy to replace that stuff.

if that doesn't work let me know I have some things that can help you from there

Keep smiling, it will be ok!!

Jimmy "RASS"

[High octane]

I use 3M brand tan masking tape and never have any residue. Sure there's other brands of tape that others "rave" about, but this brand has worked for me for years.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Personally, I've never had any issues with Tamiya tape leaving any residue behind. That's what I like about it. It sticks well enough not to allow any bleed under, but is still extremely easy to remove.

it's the only Tamiya product I use.

Steve

[aurfalien]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Just my luck, prolly the only one having residue issue with it.

Man this first build has been fun and PITA at the same time.

Edited April 30, 2015 by aurfalien

[Guest]

I've never had an issue with Tamiya tape leaving residue behind. How long did you leave the tape on? I always remove tape as soon as I'm done spraying the paint. Especially if I've also used blue painter's tape which I do on the large areas.

[aurfalien]

Well I was deathly afraid pulling before total paint dry so a few days.

I'm using Tamiya TS sprays.

The residue is thin dulling the otherwise shiny paint.

[roadhawg]

I've never had Tamiya tape leave any residue whatsoever. I suspect that its not residue at all, but it was laid down before the base color was dry enough.

However, if it really is residue, rub your finger on the side of your nose and buff the area with your fingertip. The natural skin oils will remove any residue. Wash with detergent afterward.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I've never had Tamiya tape leave any residue whatsoever. I suspect that its not residue at all, but it was laid down before the base color was dry enough.

However, if it really is residue, rub your finger on the side of your nose and buff the area with your fingertip. The natural skin oils will remove any residue. Wash with detergent afterward.

Mmmm, nose oil....my favorite!

Steve

[aurfalien]

Hi and thanks for the shnoz oil suggestion.

Kinda gross though, I'll pass tnx

The paint job is about 2 weeks old or so, gotta be cured by now?

[StevenGuthmiller]

Hi and thanks for the shnoz oil suggestion.

Kinda gross though, I'll pass tnx

The paint job is about 2 weeks old or so, gotta be cured by now?

Depends on the type of paint. Enamels take forever to cure!

When I was using enamels, many moons ago, I would paint them & then pack them away for at least a couple of months before trying to polish them.

Steve

[aurfalien]

Well, odd enough they are Tamiya TS which are lacquers no?

[StevenGuthmiller]

I don't use Tamiya paints myself, so I'm not sure. But I believe they are lacquers from what I've read around here.

Steve

[72 Charger]

Ive had residue from tamiya tape and I believe its caused the paint being a bit to thick . Thinners in the paint makes glue on the tape softer on the edges so when you remove the tape it leaves the glue under the paint edge. Also if your tape gets a bit dirty on the side where the glue is then that dirt goes into your paint job . The best thing to remove the glue is White spirits once the paint is dry. I hope this helps

[Krazy Rick]

First off - NEVER leave tape on "a few days" !! , take it off carefully ( by slowly pulling it over itself ); the longer you leave it, the more chance for the tape glue to react with the paint below, ( which probably was be still gassing out- the paint solvent evaporating; as in your case here ) ........ again, the best / easiest way to tell if your paint is cured, is to smell it; if there is a smell, let it dry until there is none; then do your taping. anyway - let this dry a couple days & try Ronson lighter fluid, it works - but be gentle; put a tiny amount on a piece of T shirt cloth & it will do the trick; first test it in an inconspicuous place to be sure it's fine with this paint. - good luck.

Edited May 1, 2015 by Krazy Rick

[TooOld]

First off - NEVER leave tape on "a few days" !! , take it off carefully ( by slowly pulling it over itself ); the longer you leave it, the more chance for the tape glue to react with the paint below, ( which probably was be still gassing out- the paint solvent evaporating; as in your case here ) ........ again, the best / easiest way to tell if your paint is cured, is to smell it; if there is a smell, let it dry until there is none; then do your taping. anyway - let this dry a couple days & try Ronson lighter fluid, it works - but be gentle; put a tiny amount on a piece of T shirt cloth & it will do the trick; first test it in an inconspicuous place to be sure it's fine with this paint. - good luck.

BINGO ! Good old cigarette lighter fluid DOES work , I've used both Ronson and Zippo brands .

[Snake45]

Here's my hierarchy of tape residue removal ideas, in order.

1. Press another piece of tape on it, pull up. This often is all that is needed.

2. Windex. (Will remove some water-based acrylic paints.)

3. Goo Gone (test on the paint first).

4. Rubbing alcohol. (WILL remove Testor and Tamiya lacquers, many acrylics, and some Krylons.)

5. Lighter fluid.

[jwrass]

Brian,

Ditch the Tamiya!!!!! Here are some tapes we use on a regular basis, with absolutely no problems. They can still leave tape tracks if the paint is to soft. All of these products were designed for custom painting by custom painters to eliminate these types of problems

1) FBS Autografix Semi Transparent 3/4 " $2.80 for 55 yds

2) FBS Proband Orange Fine line 1/16-3/4" 60 yds. price varies by size $5.00 to 15.00 60 yds

3) FBS Poband Green Fine Line 1/16-1/2" 60 yds. '' '' '' '' ''

4) V Tape 1/16" 60 yds $ 8.50

5) 3-M Green Vinyl Fie Line 1/16 - 1/4 60 yds $ 15.75

Ask your self this question? For the very small amount of tape that Tamiya gives you for a ridiculous price. Wouldn't you rather use what the pros use and have enough to build many many models

Seem like a no brainer to me!!!

All of these products can be found at Coast Airbrush

Peace Jimmy "RASS"

[aurfalien]

Hi and MANY THANKS for all this. You guys are cool!

Yea Tamiya is one pricy cookie right, I'll look for the FBS stuff.

I'm prolly gonna wait until the tape is all used up. I suspect its something I did wrong.

Edited May 1, 2015 by aurfalien

[Krazy Rick]

BINGO ! Good old cigarette lighter fluid DOES work , I've used both Ronson and Zippo brands .

annd... the beauty is here, that the stuff works pretty good in my lighter too

[aurfalien]

First off - NEVER leave tape on "a few days" !! , take it off carefully ( by slowly pulling it over itself ); the longer you leave it, the more chance for the tape glue to react with the paint below, ( which probably was be still gassing out- the paint solvent evaporating; as in your case here ) ........ again, the best / easiest way to tell if your paint is cured, is to smell it; if there is a smell, let it dry until there is none; then do your taping. anyway - let this dry a couple days & try Ronson lighter fluid, it works - but be gentle; put a tiny amount on a piece of T shirt cloth & it will do the trick; first test it in an inconspicuous place to be sure it's fine with this paint. - good luck.

Yep that's most likely what happened, I just re read your post, thanks a lot for this.

And Doobie, yes it felt thick in certain places which happen to be were the spots in question are.

I've been buffing/wet sanding and am able to fix it. At least now I know.

[fseva]

Wash with detergent afterward.

My nose... or the car?

[fseva]

Hi and MANY THANKS for all this. You guys are cool!

Yea Tamiya is one pricy cookie right, I'll look for the FBS stuff.

I'm prolly gonna wait until the tape is all used up. I suspect its something I did wrong.

Chicago Airbrush Supply handles the FBS line...

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/aist.html