1hobby1 Posted May 23, 2015 Posted May 23, 2015 Hi all! I'm in the process of finishing up a revell 69 camaro and was wondering how some of you were able to paint the molded logo on the side. Here is a picture to show the camaro writing I would like to paint in silver. I usually use a toothpick for very fine detail painting but can not master this one. Any advice!? How do you usually get body writing painted? Please share and thank you!!!
berr13 Posted May 23, 2015 Posted May 23, 2015 Ever since I got one of those magnified led lights and a set of really fine liner brushes, I've been amazed at what I can do to stuff like that...
StevenGuthmiller Posted May 23, 2015 Posted May 23, 2015 I gave up painting mine years ago in favor of foil. I couldn't hold my hand steady enough to paint something like that to save my life at my age! It's no good to you at this stage, but I foil mine, paint over it & then clean off the foil with thinner. I'll never do it any other way. The Plymouth I'm working on was done this way. Excuse the grime & finger prints. It's a work in progress. Steve
Snake45 Posted May 23, 2015 Posted May 23, 2015 There are no "secrets" to this. Just fine brush, silver paint, good light, magnification if necessary, and a steady hand. But you prolly already knew that.
gtx6970 Posted May 23, 2015 Posted May 23, 2015 A good magnifier and lighting. Then lightly dry brush it. Or foil it and a new blade in the xacto knife.
Tom Geiger Posted May 23, 2015 Posted May 23, 2015 A good magnifier and lighting. Then lightly dry brush it. at this point of your project, dry brushing with silver is the way to go. You can try the BMF process on another project since you should do that before paint. Dry brushing is pretty easy. Dip your brush in silver paint, then paint a surface like paper until 90% of the paint is gone. Then take the brush and lightly, as in breezing by without actually touching it, brush the lettering on a sideways angle. A few things... You may want to put some blue tape / Tamiya tape around it so you don't accidentally hit the body with your brush. Second thing, once you have one emblem done. Wait long enough for it to dry before you flip the model over to do the one on the other side. You don't want to smear!
1hobby1 Posted May 23, 2015 Author Posted May 23, 2015 Great advice guys, thank you! I think I'm going to try the dry brush method once I get some time to work on the car again. Seems to be the best bet for me. I will most definitely try the BMF method in mind for future builds though!
fseva Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 I gave up painting mine years ago in favor of foil. I couldn't hold my hand steady enough to paint something like that to save my life at my age! It's no good to you at this stage, but I foil mine, paint over it & then clean off the foil with thinner. I'll never do it any other way. The Plymouth I'm working on was done this way. Excuse the grime & finger prints. It's a work in progress. Wow - yours look fantastic - right up there with a PE part! I take it you have to be real careful applying the paint thinner to the writing - by the way - how do you do this? Would a Q-Tip work?
StevenGuthmiller Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 Wow - yours look fantastic - right up there with a PE part! I take it you have to be real careful applying the paint thinner to the writing - by the way - how do you do this? Would a Q-Tip work? You can use one of these Tamiya small pointed swabs, but a tooth pick soaked in a little thinner will work just as well. I usually apply the foil just before the final color coat, so there's not a lot of paint over the script. Cut the foil as close as you comfortably can, shoot your final coat of color, let it dry enough so you can handle it & then dip your swab or tooth pick in a little thinner, wipe off the excess, ( you don't want it too wet or it may "leech" onto the paint surface & ruin your paint job) Then just carefully rub the surface of the script until you expose the foil underneath. When they're done to your satisfaction, you can commence with clear coats. Steve
angelo7 Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 I gave up painting mine years ago in favor of foil. I couldn't hold my hand steady enough to paint something like that to save my life at my age! It's no good to you at this stage, but I foil mine, paint over it & then clean off the foil with thinner. I'll never do it any other way. The Plymouth I'm working on was done this way. Excuse the grime & finger prints. It's a work in progress. Steve Steven, those logos look great!
fseva Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 You can use one of these Tamiya small pointed swabs, but a tooth pick soaked in a little thinner will work just as well. I usually apply the foil just before the final color coat, so there's not a lot of paint over the script. Cut the foil as close as you comfortably can, shoot your final coat of color, let it dry enough so you can handle it & then dip your swab or tooth pick in a little thinner, wipe off the excess, ( you don't want it too wet or it may "leech" onto the paint surface & ruin your paint job) Then just carefully rub the surface of the script until you expose the foil underneath. When they're done to your satisfaction, you can commence with clear coats. I actually use the Tamiya swabs with BMF, as a "pointed tool" (to replace toothpicks, which can easily tear the foil). So, at least I don't have to buy them to try them next time. But I can see how your technique using a toothpick to remove the paint would be a good one - can't possibly hold enough thinner to run the paint! BTW, remind me - you use enamels, right? So, you would use mineral spirits or some other substitute in this process? I use lacquers, exclusively, for body work. Would the technique of employing a toothpick dipped in lacquer thinner work as well?
StevenGuthmiller Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 I actually use the Tamiya swabs with BMF, as a "pointed tool" (to replace toothpicks, which can easily tear the foil). So, at least I don't have to buy them to try them next time. But I can see how your technique using a toothpick to remove the paint would be a good one - can't possibly hold enough thinner to run the paint! BTW, remind me - you use enamels, right? So, you would use mineral spirits or some other substitute in this process? I use lacquers, exclusively, for body work. Would the technique of employing a toothpick dipped in lacquer thinner work as well? Actually Frank, I use almost exclusively lacquers as well. Either I use MCW paints, or Duplicolor. The cleaning "solution" that I use is MCW's "Airbrush Cleaner". It's some powerful stuff & will dissolve any type of paint in seconds, so you want to be careful, but a dab on a tooth pick or a swab will do the trick for you. Steve
fseva Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 Actually Frank, I use almost exclusively lacquers as well. Either I use MCW paints, or Duplicolor. The cleaning "solution" that I use is MCW's "Airbrush Cleaner". It's some powerful stuff & will dissolve any type of paint in seconds, so you want to be careful, but a dab on a tooth pick or a swab will do the trick for you. Wow - that stuff sounds like the best airbrush cleaner, as well! Thanks for the Tip! BTW, since MCW sells 99% acrylic lacquers, is it safe to assume that their "airbrush cleaner" is really just a very HOT lacquer thinner?
Tom Geiger Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 and like anything else in this world... try it first on a scrap body. Don't try this on a precious '59 Plymouth that you've just painted perfectly!
StevenGuthmiller Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 Wow - that stuff sounds like the best airbrush cleaner, as well! Thanks for the Tip! BTW, since MCW sells 99% acrylic lacquers, is it safe to assume that their "airbrush cleaner" is really just a very HOT lacquer thinner? It's fantastic airbrush cleaner Frank! It'll clean any kind of paint out of your airbrush as clean as a whistle in seconds! I believe it is just a very hot lacquer thinner. I wish I knew exactly what it was, I could probably get it a lot cheaper @ my local automotive paint store. Steve
StevenGuthmiller Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 and like anything else in this world... try it first on a scrap body. Don't try this on a precious '59 Plymouth that you've just painted perfectly! Probably not a bad idea Tom! Steve
fseva Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) It's fantastic airbrush cleaner Frank! It'll clean any kind of paint out of your airbrush as clean as a whistle in seconds! I believe it is just a very hot lacquer thinner. I wish I knew exactly what it was, I could probably get it a lot cheaper @ my local automotive paint store. I did some checking online and the only lacquer thinner that I could find that was not strictly "medium" is this one by Rust-Oleum... http://www.autozone.com/paint-and-body/paint-remover-stripper-thinner/rust-oleum-1-gal-fast-evaporation-lacquer-thinner/660012_0_0/ What do you think? Edited May 24, 2015 by fseva
StevenGuthmiller Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 I did some checking online and the only lacquer thinner that I could find that was not strictly "medium" is this one by Rust-Oleum... http://www.autozone.com/paint-and-body/paint-remover-stripper-thinner/rust-oleum-1-gal-fast-evaporation-lacquer-thinner/660012_0_0/ What do you think? RUST-OLEUM 253309.JPG It's worth a try I guess. Can't see why it wouldn't work for something as simple as a little script. Steve
fseva Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 It's worth a try I guess. Can't see why it wouldn't work for something as simple as a little script. Well, not particularly for the script, but more for it being a better "airbrush cleaner". Do you think the term "high evaporation" means... "hot"?
StevenGuthmiller Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 Well, not particularly for the script, but more for it being a better "airbrush cleaner". Do you think the term "high evaporation" means... "hot"? That I couldn't tell you. I'm surely no chemist! My guess would be it will work for cleaning equipment. Hell, it says so on the can! But I can't tell you if it's the same thing that MCW sells as "airbrush cleaner". Your best bet may be to go to an automotive paint supply store & just ask them what they would recommend for cleaning automotive lacquers out of painting equipment. Steve
Mike_G Posted May 24, 2015 Posted May 24, 2015 I use Berryman's B-12 Chemtool carb cleaner in the spray can. The stuff is like Chuck Norris in a can, if Chuck Norris was an airbrush cleaner.
StevenGuthmiller Posted May 25, 2015 Posted May 25, 2015 Wow! Never seen these before. Great tip I use them for a lot of things Tommy, including foiling. They work great for helping to snug down the foil. Then I usually get it really into the corners with a sharpened tooth pick. They also come in handy for burnishing the foil in tight spots, like the inside of vent windows. Steve
fseva Posted May 25, 2015 Posted May 25, 2015 Wow! Never seen these before. Great tip Tamiya cotton swabs come in several different tip sizes and styles... My favorite is the medium triangular tip, but you don't have to go by that. Just offered it to help you decide which you would find most helpful.
fseva Posted May 25, 2015 Posted May 25, 2015 I use Berryman's B-12 Chemtool carb cleaner in the spray can. The stuff is like Chuck Norris in a can, if Chuck Norris was an airbrush cleaner. I tried Briggs & Stratton Carb Cleaner - it did nothing more than regular old lacquer thinner, which I need to have on hand anyway...
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