Mattel Vac-u-Form

[Kit Basher]

I picked up one of these at an auction today for cheap. It heats up and appears complete except for the instructions. I have a rough idea how it works, but would appreciate any advice. I don't have any of the perforated sheets of styrene for it. Can plain styrene be used without perforations? If so, what thickness? TIA

[randx0]

There's a guy that sells upgrades and plastic for these. You do have to use a certain kind of plastic . Sorry I don't have the specifics .

[GLMFAA1]

I have one and you need the plate inside the tray, 010 to 020 styrene will heat and work and you really don't need the holes as the pins will hold the thinner plastic sheets

[GLMFAA1]

I have collected three units and you can use 010 to 020 plastic in the machines, They don't need to be perforated as the pins will grab the sheets, The only thing I hope you have is the platen that goes inside the square indention of the vacuum side, good luck

greg

[southpier]

evidently they have a cult following:

http://www.gaugepods.com/vacuform/

[Kit Basher]

The only thing I hope you have is the platen that goes inside the square indention of the vacuum side, good luck

Is the platen plastic? There are two rectangular ones, one with a bunch of tiny holes, and one with no holes and a ribbed surface. There is also a round one.with a ribbed surface and one hole in the middle. Thanks

Thanks for the link, Joe. Looks interesting.

Edited May 28, 2015 by Kit Basher

[Snake45]

Is the platen plastic? There are two rectangular ones, one with a bunch of tiny holes, and one with no holes and a ribbed surface. There is also a round one.with a ribbed surface and one hole in the middle. Thanks

Thanks for the link, Joe. Looks interesting.

You're good to go.

I've found .020 to .030 plastic to work best. Thinner doesn't hold as well, and makes too-thin parts.

[Kit Basher]

I've found .020 to .030 plastic to work best. Thinner doesn't hold as well, and makes too-thin parts.

Cool! I've got a bunch of .030 plastic. Isn't that about what plastic signs are?

[GLMFAA1]

Yes, platform is black plastic and checking the link in Southpier (Joe) answer it is called a platform,

I use it to make windshields and emergency lights for my models

I get transparent 020 plastic from a local dealer

greg

[Kit Basher]

Thanks, Greg. Windshields and headlight lenses are definitely something I want to try. Also hood scoops, and who knows what all!

[Art Anderson]

Cool! I've got a bunch of .030 plastic. Isn't that about what plastic signs are?

.030" styrene is seriously pushing the capabilities of the Mattel Vac-U-Form machine, on a couple of fronts! For starters, .030" thick styrene is seriously pushing the envelope for such a small vac-former (Vac-U-Former's platen is quite small) and it works with a hand-operated push-pump vacuum pump, which has to do it's job VERY quickly (for example, the Ron Charles Vacuformer I have still, uses the motor and impeller from a Kirby vacuum cleaner, and does its thing while the heated plastic is still just beneath the very potent heating elements!).

The standard Mattel styrene sheet plastic was .015" thick, which while thin by our 1/25 scale standards, was ideal for forming what Mattel had in mind, little, approximately 1/64 scale car bodies.

Now, that all said, I have two of these machines, which I bought about 1968-69. I have made numerous small air scoops, even the flared fairings such as seen on older Offy-Powered Indy Roadsters, to hold the windscreens, stuff like that--and Vac-U-Form works great for stuff like that. I also made several dozen very thin vac-formed canopies for both 1/48 and 1/72nd scale aircraft models, a subject matter of which I built a couple hundred of back in the late 60's/early 70's.

In short, keep it simple, with this machine, by using thin stock for vac-forming--you'll find, with practice and experience, that it can do neat stuff, albeit small stuff!

Art

You're good to go.

I've found .020 to .030 plastic to work best. Thinner doesn't hold as well, and makes too-thin parts.

.015" stock works great in the Vac-U-Former, in my experience.

Art

[Kit Basher]

Thanks Art, I'll save my .030 for scratchbuilding.

[AzTom]

Thanks for posting this. I picked up one in the box a while back and never got around to play with it.

Edited May 29, 2015 by AzTom

[Kit Basher]

Tanks for posting this. I picked up one in the box a while back and never got around to play with it.

I think it's gonna be fun. BTW, the link that Joe posted above has the instructions.

[AzTom]

Thanks, I like your loadstar.

[Tom Geiger]

There is a guy who makes the proper sheets in both white and clear. I believe it's Callari Motorworks. I have his info at home, pm me if you want it

[russosborne]

Dumb question.

How do you make parts with these?

Do you have to have a mold, or do you use an original part, or ???

Apparently I didn't have one of these when I was a kid. Thought I did but I was thinking of something else.

I am looking at the link posted above, but so far all I am seeing is things like replacement parts for them.

Update. I found the instructions on that site for it. Guess you do need a mold of some sort.

Do most of you use a kit part as a mold, or do you do something else?

This is definitely one of those things I need to see to fully understand I think.

Thanks.

Russ

Edited July 2, 2015 by russosborne

[Krazy Rick]

You need some type of form, usually, for I've done, the original part is used. if you have a cracked windshield that you need to replace, you'll want to repair it & make sure the crack is glued /filled/sanded well, the plastic will pick up flaws; Plastacine is used to fill the inside cavity & make the part rigid / stable & able to mount in the centre of your plate. Avoid anything with too much undercut, anything that may get locked in; Pump, repeat & keep going to get the best form & always keep the little holes clear on the plate by cleaning with a pin to remove extra plasticine.

[Dave Van]

Been using one since Mattel introduced them!!! First as Mattel intended to make toys....then canopies for planes. I now have 3 other commercial Vac machines.

HINT...apply a small amount of Vaseline inside the tube under the platform that create the vacuum....it will make the unit work better.

[OldNYJim]

On 5/27/2015 at 6:53 PM, GLMFAA1 said:

I have collected three units and you can use 010 to 020 plastic in the machines, They don't need to be perforated as the pins will grab the sheets, The only thing I hope you have is the platen that goes inside the square indention of the vacuum side, good luck

greg

Bringing this old thread, and post, back from the dead…I found a working machine with good suction SUPER SUPER cheap…but, no black plate for the platform.

Does anyone happen to have a decent picture of this commonly-missing plate, by chance?  I’m wondering if I can 3D print something to work (and do a service to other people with the same issue by putting the file up online somewhere…)

I could fab something out of metal easy enough, but I’m curious what the kit part looked like top and bottom…