DrKerry Posted May 30, 2015 Posted May 30, 2015 202 lbs. : ) He he he, smart butt!!!! Here's one I'm doing...
horsepower Posted May 30, 2015 Posted May 30, 2015 Has anyone ever tried converting the V12 to a Ardun version? Just curious, might actually be a pretty cool hot rod, or rat rod engine.
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 30, 2015 Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) Good luck with the re-spry, Ray. Has anyone ever tried converting the V12 to a Ardun version? Just curious, might actually be a pretty cool hot rod, or rat rod engine. I think R&M makes a finned-head version in 1/25 similar to this... There's also an OHV Ardun in 1/8 scale, so you know what it might look like... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=70944 Edited May 30, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy
slusher Posted May 31, 2015 Posted May 31, 2015 Looking good Ray, grey primer is harder to cover also. Good luck on the repaint..
DrKerry Posted May 31, 2015 Posted May 31, 2015 Would love to have both those engines in 1/25 scale!!!! Kool stuff, Looking forward to more of your build Ray. You always build some nice stuff!!!
cobraman Posted May 31, 2015 Author Posted May 31, 2015 Started the second paint job and I'll be darned if I didn't get a couple more small runs on the front fenders. Back in for a soak ! I will try once more with this color because I really like it. I will go mist after mist and hopefully escape without a run. Plan B will be changing paint and color . I really thought I was putting on light coats. Not giving up ............... yet. : )
cobraman Posted May 31, 2015 Author Posted May 31, 2015 Tell me again why we do this ? : ) May have to start another project while I am working through the problems with this one.
bobthehobbyguy Posted May 31, 2015 Posted May 31, 2015 What paint are you using? Why didn't you let the paint dry and sand the runs and then recoat?
Dave Ambrose Posted May 31, 2015 Posted May 31, 2015 Here's something I learned from a guy who painted spacecraft for a living: Paint the hard to cover areas first. He would get into the nooks and crannies and hit them with paint. Then, he'd go back over the entire whatever, and paint it. When he was done, he'd have perfect coverage. It is a principle that's worked will for me on my models In your case, hit the areas giving you trouble. Leave the rest of the model alone. When it's dry, lightly sand the paint with über fine sandpaper. Then paint normally.
cobraman Posted May 31, 2015 Author Posted May 31, 2015 Sounds like sound advice. The paint is Model Master Enamel. I normally like to use lacquer but I have had some good luck with using enamel in the past. This one seems to shoot thin for some reason. I thought this color would fit the car nicely. As you can see the hood looks pretty good ( no clear yet ) I also did the dash and the spare tire carrier without any problems. I know it's me, I'll just have to be more careful on the next paint job. I have had problems before as most guys have but never this much. I do think body shape is playing at least a small part with the problem I am having. I'll get it.
cobraman Posted May 31, 2015 Author Posted May 31, 2015 What paint are you using? Why didn't you let the paint dry and sand the runs and then recoat? Didn't really think I could get good results doing that. If the next one has runs I will give that a try but just feel I could not get a uniform finish that way with this color.
DrKerry Posted May 31, 2015 Posted May 31, 2015 You'll get it Ray, don't give up on her. She'd look awesome in that shade!!!!!
slusher Posted June 1, 2015 Posted June 1, 2015 Sounds like sound advice. The paint is Model Master Enamel. I normally like to use lacquer but I have had some good luck with using enamel in the past. This one seems to shoot thin for some reason. I thought this color would fit the car nicely. As you can see the hood looks pretty good ( no clear yet ) I also did the dash and the spare tire carrier without any problems. I know it's me, I'll just have to be more careful on the next paint job. I have had problems before as most guys have but never this much. I do think body shape is playing at least a small part with the problem I am having. I'll get it. Very good advice from Dave. Ray, it is not all you the enamel now is thinner in the testor and model master. I have been using Krylon and Rustoleum enamel for that reason. I threw 3 cans of enamel away due to the fact it seemed thin and was not covering to some i have only a few years old. i hope this helps...
Ace-Garageguy Posted June 1, 2015 Posted June 1, 2015 I do think body shape is playing at least a small part with the problem I am having. Painting fat-fendered cars with the fenders attached can be an absolute bugger. I was getting so frustrated with a '40 Ford custom, I decided to re-do the build so that I could paint the body and fenders separately. Kind of a pain too, as the rear fenders were originally supposed to be molded-in. You'll get it.
cobraman Posted June 1, 2015 Author Posted June 1, 2015 Thanks for the support guys. I should have it back in primer today. Third times the charm ! : )
horsepower Posted June 2, 2015 Posted June 2, 2015 One of the keys I learned when painting 1:1 cars in some of the more transparent enamels was to use a VERY light fog coat for the first couple of coats and to make sure that they are dry enough that they are past the point of being able to transfer paint to your fingers when touching an area right next to where you have applied the paint, the last coats can be heavier, but the drying time is still very important to avoid sags or runs. It will help with enamel paints to warm them before painting, it will add a little pressure to the can, and the paint will flow out a little better, I heat mine in a sink of very hot water, letting it sit on the bottom with just enough water that the can doesn't start to float. I will pick up the can and shake occasionally, and add hotter water if needed, until the can remains warm to the touch after shaking. But be sure you remove any water that may have gotten into the top of the can. Good luck, painting is an art and once you get it right it's a pleasure.
cobraman Posted June 2, 2015 Author Posted June 2, 2015 Thanks for the tips. Been painting model cars for well over 50 years and have never had this problem. Other problems to be sure but not this one. Paint was warm as it was in my garage here in Arizona so I don't think that was the problem. I did manage to get it painted today and had only one very small run which I think I can fix when the paint is dry. I don't see a benefit to using the enamel except I really liked this color. Back to lacquer for me.
Dave Ambrose Posted June 2, 2015 Posted June 2, 2015 Enamel needs a different painting proceedure than lacquer. Put down a very light mist coat before you get serious about putting down color. The mist coat will look terrible and very transparent. Let it dry, give it an extremely light sanding with the finest sandpaper you can find, then lay down color coats. Keep the coats light, and let them dry for 15 minutes before you put down the next coat.
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