cobraman Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 I feel your pain as I suffer from the same problem. I guess if I haven't learned by now to wait perhaps I never will. : )
Roadrunner Posted June 17, 2015 Author Posted June 17, 2015 That stinks. But the main thing to remember about painting is DO NOT SKIP STEPS. I'm not meaning to tell, just emphasize my point. Any time you skip steps in a critical process such as pairing, problems will always occur. That color is amazing however. I may have missed it but what type of paint is this? No problem at all, Ben and you're absolutely right, I'll be much more careful in the future, that's for certain. The color is Testors Mystic Emerald lacquer. I feel your pain as I suffer from the same problem. I guess if I haven't learned by now to wait perhaps I never will. : ) I hear ya', Ray. If i hadn't just done more or less the same stupid thing on my '32 Vicky, I wouldn't feel quite so bad. I have every intention of taking at least one finished car to our regional here in September, and I had really hoped this would be the one.
Dave Van Posted June 17, 2015 Posted June 17, 2015 NICE paint!!!! I did the artwork for these sold by Gofer Racing.... 1
Roadrunner Posted June 17, 2015 Author Posted June 17, 2015 Very nice indeed, Dave. I may just have to chase down a set, as I'll ultimately be doing several gassers.
Roadrunner Posted June 22, 2015 Author Posted June 22, 2015 OK, I just immersed the Mustang in 91% alcohol, and the alcohol immediately attacked the green, so perhaps I'll be able to strip this back enough to repaint after all, as this car is the one I'd really prefer to finish first, if doable.
Guest Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 Hope things turn out better for you this time! Also, 91% alachol is stronger than a lot of people give it credit. I use alachol for so many things I stick 50, 70, 91, and 99 percent for whatever job I have at hand.
Roadrunner Posted June 22, 2015 Author Posted June 22, 2015 So far, so good, Ben. All of the green from the top half is now gone and bottom half of kit is now soaking. I have a very good feeling that I'll be able to salvage this body, and begin repainting this week. Yeehah!
Snake45 Posted June 22, 2015 Posted June 22, 2015 91% rubbing alcohol takes the modern Testor/Model Master lacquers off quite nicely. I've stripped a couple paint jobs that way--and I'm usually able to leave the nice Walmart cheap primer underneath intact, as well.
Roadrunner Posted June 22, 2015 Author Posted June 22, 2015 Yea, Snake, the Duplicolor primer is hardly phased, but the green just floats away. I love it. Now if I can just paint it again, using a bit of patience, I might just end up with a good looking car after all.
Roadrunner Posted June 23, 2015 Author Posted June 23, 2015 Stripped and looks good; no need to primer it again, so I decided to just shoot color on top and see what happens.
Roadrunner Posted June 23, 2015 Author Posted June 23, 2015 And here we are with color again. Darker this time (not intentional), but I like it, so it’ll probably remain this way.
Roadrunner Posted June 23, 2015 Author Posted June 23, 2015 Thanks, Ray. The translucency of the paint sometimes causes me problems, and the insane spraying characteristics of the paint also contribute to the overall color getting darker and darker.
Codi Posted June 23, 2015 Posted June 23, 2015 Nice save Kevin. I'm enjoying your Flak gun build under the "All the Rest" section. If you've not seen it guys, you should peek in on it. Pretty cool. Cheers, Tim
Snake45 Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 Stripped and looks good; no need to primer it again, so I decided to just shoot color on top and see what happens. That's almost exactly what my Camaro looked like after I stripped that same paint off it--the light gray primer was "tinted" green, but all the actual lacquer was off.
mustang1989 Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 Sorry I haven't been in here more as of late Kevin. That trip I took out of town last week has me catching up on not only my own build but also stuff around the house. You know I've got an idea of where you're coming from with all this automotive building as it's all new territory to me as well as it's its own animal. Paint curing/ gas out times and all that stuff rarely play a part in the military builds that I do and it's a learning curve in order to get used to. Looks like you're sticking with it here and pulling off a great build so far.
Roadrunner Posted June 24, 2015 Author Posted June 24, 2015 Thanks, Joe. I'm having fun anyway (sort of). It’s been eons since I last built this kit, and had completely forgotten about the all plastic front tires. (Rears are rubber though, and pretty nice.) Parachute pack is a nice touch, and I look forward to adding it as well.
Roadrunner Posted June 24, 2015 Author Posted June 24, 2015 Interior/frame is beginning to take shape, as is the engine. All of the chrome you see here will be stripped off though, as intake manifold will be aluminum, and timing chain cover the same color as block (black), same with the oil pan.
cobraman Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 Not that you need the motivation but here are photos of two that I did.
Roadrunner Posted June 24, 2015 Author Posted June 24, 2015 Nice! Thanks, Ray. They both look sharp. I hope mine comes out as nice.
Roadrunner Posted June 24, 2015 Author Posted June 24, 2015 Yours will be better, I'm sure. I'm not, but I'll do my best, that's all I can do.
Snake45 Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 Interior/frame is beginning to take shape, as is the engine. All of the chrome you see here will be stripped off though, as intake manifold will be aluminum, and timing chain cover the same color as block (black), same with the oil pan. Might I offer a suggestion, if it's not too late? Most of these kits I've seen built, guys paint the interior tub silver or aluminum to simulate sheet aluminum. BUT few funny cars of this era had aluminum interiors. They often just had the upholstery stripped out and the factory steel framework left as-is, or sometimes painted black or with the "speckle" paint that was popular in the day for trunks and things of that nature. When I get around to building these kits, I'm gonna shoot the guts with semigloss black. Just a thought, worth exactly what it cost you....
Roadrunner Posted June 24, 2015 Author Posted June 24, 2015 Might I offer a suggestion, if it's not too late? Most of these kits I've seen built, guys paint the interior tub silver or aluminum to simulate sheet aluminum. BUT few funny cars of this era had aluminum interiors. They often just had the upholstery stripped out and the factory steel framework left as-is, or sometimes painted black or with the "speckle" paint that was popular in the day for trunks and things of that nature. When I get around to building these kits, I'm gonna shoot the guts with semigloss black. Just a thought, worth exactly what it cost you.... Worth a lot more than that. I'm not even sure the term, "funny car", is appropriate for this style of car, but certainly the earliest FC's were a far cry from what we see today. I'll probably shoot the interior some version of black, as you suggest, so thanks for that. Also, when you refer to "these kits", exactly how many of these AMT altered wheelbase kits were there? Any idea? I had been wondering about that, because there were probably more that I've forgotten about, and I might like to take a stab at some others.
Snake45 Posted June 24, 2015 Posted June 24, 2015 I'm not even sure the term, "funny car", is appropriate for this style of car... Are you kidding? The term "funny car" originated with these altered wheelbase cars of @1964-66, because they "looked funny." Lesee, there were the AMT Nova, Mustang, '65 Chevelle, '66 Barracuda, '67 Comet Cyclone, '65 Falcon, '64 Olds F-85 roadster in this series, and I'm sure I've forgotten a couple others. I think these kits first appeared in 1967.
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