charlie8575 Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 Believe it or not I am happy with the metal axle type...plastic tends to sag over time but then again I am a promo and promo like kit fan myself.... I actually prefer metal pins and axles, too. I've had too many problems with plastic axles and lugs over the years, and I think the little metal pins for the front and a nice, simple bar in the rear if it's rear-drive or a second set of pins in the front, is the best solution to the problem. Charlie Larkin
kruleworld Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 (edited) ... Some mount them to inside of the wheel, some to the outside. ... I think you mean some mount the cap in the wheel, some in the axle. personally, inside the wheel makes for a better connection. the tamiya wheels often break the attachment stem off from inside the wheel, making it difficult to remount it. Edited June 30, 2015 by kruleworld
Tom Geiger Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 hmmmmm... if somehow wheel attachment got standardized today, then none of wheels from the models from the past 50 years would fit!
afx Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 Rather than standardize them I would prefer for the wheel attachment to be more authentic to the 1:1 vehicle. I'm not suggesting individual lug nuts but more accurate hubs onto which you would mount the wheel.
Drake69 Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 I usually follow the scientific standard myself: krispikremius torus
unclescott58 Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 This discussion points out why it may be impossible to ever standardize wheel mounting on models. And I'm okay with that. By the way, I stil like the old old fashion straight metal axles. Front and rear. I don't mind the axle going through the engine block. Once the model is done, it's rarely noticed and wheels are straight, level, and for the most part attached firmly. Scott
Longbox55 Posted June 30, 2015 Posted June 30, 2015 I think you mean some mount the cap in the wheel, some in the axle. personally, inside the wheel makes for a better connection. the tamiya wheels often break the attachment stem off from inside the wheel, making it difficult to remount it. No. Take a look at a Hasegawa VW Type 2. The poly cap mounts on the outside of the wheel, rather than the inside, trapped in the wheel by the hubcap. Most other that put the poly cap in the wheel mount them from the inside of the wheel.
Greg Myers Posted July 1, 2015 Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) Polly Caps ? Can some one show us a picture ? Looks like there's no standard here https://www.google.com/search?q=poly+caps&espv=2&biw=1600&bih=775&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=MlaTVbewPIy4ggTrnJ_ADg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg#imgrc=_ Edited July 1, 2015 by Greg Myers
Greg Myers Posted July 1, 2015 Posted July 1, 2015 and with all the food alergies around these are getting harder to find. Dunkin don't have 'em.
Tom Geiger Posted July 1, 2015 Posted July 1, 2015 Seems a lot of people like doughnuts At least OP gave us that option. If I ever meet him face to face, I'll buy him a doughnut!
Longbox55 Posted July 1, 2015 Posted July 1, 2015 The black piece on the right is a poly cap. In addition to being used for wheel mounting, they are also used in scale models of mecha figures (Gundam, Macross) for the joints. The one shown is for a Tamiya Skyline, the cap mounts inside the brake rotor. another style, poly cap is the translucent part next to the rotor. This one is also for a Skyline, and Aoshima Top Secret version in this case Cap mounts in the wheel from the inside, and slips over the pin, which is mounted in the spindle and trapped by the rotor Another variation, Fujimi Astro van in this case. The cap is already installed in the wheel, it goes in from th inside of the wheel and mounts on the molded in pin on the axle. One last variant. This is the Hasegawa VW Type 2 wheel I spoke of in my earlier post. In this case, the cap goes in from the outside of the wheel, and is trapped by the hubcaps (not shown). It mounts over the pin on the spindle. As mentioned, there are a few other variants, such as mounting on a metal axle, plus the MRC wheel adapters mentioned in a few posts. I can get some pix of those as well, if anyone wants to see what they are.
Junkman Posted July 1, 2015 Posted July 1, 2015 (edited) If you wanted your model to "roll" freely... I could see this being a good point... however, they sit on a shelf... I am past the point of playing w/ them lol... I'm not past that point and never will be. If the model railway industry was able to agree to ISO standards for their wheelsets and couplings, why can't the model car industry do it for their wheel attachments? I quite like that you can easily swap wheels on Japanese kits without any fuss. Yes, we can adapt them, and even tutor the youngsters how to do it, but who would have a disadvantage if they did get standardised? I would especially appreciate it in the diecast field, where one's homemade solutions often aren't sturdy enough to support the rather hefty models, or one loses the steerability of the front wheels. Bolt circle nonwithstanding, but the method with which a wheel is attached is pretty standardised on real cars, too. Edited July 1, 2015 by Junkman
Ben Posted July 3, 2015 Posted July 3, 2015 (edited) Yes, those 'paddle ' wheels are just plain a PAIN IN THE BUTT ! Ok, I give, what exactly is a "paddle" style wheel??? Ok, disregard, just read it's like the wheels in the new Moebius pickup kits. Edited July 3, 2015 by Ben
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