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Posted

Calling it just about done. It just needs a couple of clean up tweaks, including adding the heater hoses and figuring out how to reinstall the rear view mirror which fell out.

This is my first MOPAR and is for the GTR Model Club 2015 theme, 100 years of Dodge. Since I am not even close to being knowledgeable on this car, I did the usual research channels, including the internet. However, several knowledgeable people contributed to getting as close as possible to the real car. These include Jim Brooks, Dave Greene, John Walczak, Bill Goldbach and Billy Mayberry.

The model is based on Revell’s Hemi Dart kit in 1/25 scale. Allowing two build options, the kit did not provide all the interior and engine bay options to fully replicate a 68. The body in my kit had a slight warp that I could not fully work out, even after some Dremel grinding and heat finessing. The Hemi Cross Ram manifold was two heights, instead of flat across and needed adjustment. I wasn’t excited about the rear valence and bumper pieces, as I could not get a tight enough fit. And it was a royal pain to get the chassis mated to the body/interior because of the width of the Hemi Engine.

I basically used the Revell kit, including decals, and added:

  • A few decals from the Revell 68 Firebird drag racer as I did not use them when I built a stock kit;

  • Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland Shapes set to fit the hole made in excluding the heater;

  • Competition Resins Dodge A100 seats and drilled brackets for the correct racing seats;

  • Model Car Garage:
    • Stewart Warner Tach for the steering column mounted version;

    • Seat belt hardware;

    • Mesh screen;

    • Wire Looms; and

    • Exterior Door Locks

  • RB Motion Hemi plug boots;

  • B-N-L Resin dip stick;

  • Detail Master Hood Pin set; and

  • Morgan Automotive Detail 8 cylinder distributor.

The interior needed to be further gutted to reflect the race car, so I shaved the window cranks and rear armrests. I added the seat belt front window openers including both upper and lower snaps. I used Evergreen strip to blank out the radio and heater, then detailed and added the Competition Resin Seats. Note, on the real car, only the driver side had seat belts, and they were lap belts only. Shots of the interior before placing in the body:

DSCF9824_zpsiwihdskz.jpg

DSCF9844_zpswyxirqpv.jpg

In the engine bay:

  • Removed the heater motor head and replaced with the circular piece from R&MofM;

  • Added brackets for the rear hood pins;

  • Added the front and rear hood pins from Detail Master (yes they can actually function but are fragile and SO TINY);

  • Used Evergreen strip for the aluminum master cylinder offset plate and cut off the vacuum booster from the kit piece;

  • Used wire to simulate the tube and rubber pieces of the brake lines in the engine bay; and

  • Added a voltage regulator and wiring and other details.

On the engine:

  • Assembled the kit version and corrected the intake manifold;

  • Used carbs from the parts box that were more detailed than the kit supplied;

  • Cut off the kit distributor cap and replaced with the MAD cap and wires (I kept the distributor base because it has the drive for the mechanical tach;

  • Drilled out the plug boot points on the valve covers and with the RB Motion boots and then wired the engine;

  • Ran fuel lines and linkage to the carbs;

  • De-chromed and drilled out the carb velocity stacks and added mesh screen and locking nuts; and

  • Added the B-N-L resin dip stick, but it is almost invisible because of the engine width.

Body mods were very minor. I used R&MofM pieces to cover the wiper mount points (No wipers on the race car which also means don’t add the wiper motor the kit provides). I crafted a cover plate for where the side view mirror would be.

Here is the (almost) finished model:

SAM_4147_zps1ualvkan.jpg

SAM_4148_zpsblupjhl3.jpg

SAM_4150_zpsh2xn1ayi.jpg

SAM_4151_zpsndmnqoav.jpg

SAM_4154_zps9xueaxnz.jpg

Posted

Very nice.

Working hood pins even?

Yes, but I wouldn't try to fit them in too many times, they are fragile. T2M makes an interesting set that I am looking into getting that may be better.

Posted (edited)

Yes, but I wouldn't try to fit them in too many times, they are fragile. T2M makes an interesting set that I am looking into getting that may be better.

Yep they're tiny ...without your close-up pics I wouldn't have been able to see 'em.

The only hood pins I've used were those little chrome "dots" that came with Monogram stock cars....

Edited by mike 51
Posted

Yep they're tiny ...without your close-up pics I wouldn't have been able to see 'em.

The only hood pins I've used were those little chrome "dots" that came with Monogram stock cars....

Dzuz fasteners? There are PE sets for them, including ones that separate (since they are spring controlled, not easy to have working ;) ).

Posted (edited)

No just little "dots" with light engraving "suggesting" hood pins....

If those PE Dzuz fasteners don't really work, I wouldn't be interested ;)

Edited by mike 51
Posted

You have alreadys done outstanding work but you have definately upped your game with this effort. Congratulations!

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