Recipe or favorite finishes for Gray (Zinc) Phosphate sought...

[swede70]

Greetings,

Working on a 1:12th scale Revellogram '69 Camaro, I realize that my choice of paint for Gray (or rather gray-colored) Zinc Phosphate isn't exactly stellar.  Most material online steers me towards 1:1 restoration hardware refinishing in the proper coating, or obliquely refers me to Eastwood's product range.  Does someone have a favorite paint in a rattle can that reliably does the job again and again?  For the Camaro, imagine the finish seen on the hood latch striker plate or the hood hinges themselves.  Any help would be most appreciated.  I'd also be happy to trade chassis finish recipes as I too have some favorites.  Thanks for reading this post.

 

Mike K.

Edited July 31, 2015 by swede70
Zinc typo.

[Art Anderson]

Greetings,

Working on a 1:12th scale Revellogram '69 Camaro, I realize that my choice of paint for Gray (or rather gray-colored) Zinc Phosphate isn't exactly stellar.  Most material online steers me towards 1:1 restoration hardware refinishing in the proper coating, or obliquely refers me to Eastwood's product range.  Does someone have a favorite paint in a rattle can that reliably does the job again and again?  For the Camaro, imagine the finish seen on the hood latch striker plate or the hood hinges themselves.  Any help would be most appreciated.  I'd also be happy to trade chassis finish recipes as I too have some favorites.  Thanks for reading this post.

 

Mike K.

Check me if I'm wrong here, but weren't/aren't  parts such as hood latch striker plates (indeed the latch itself) and hood hinges originally cadmium-plated?

 

Art

[FordRodnKustom]

Any combination of Testor's Metallizer paints should get you there. Experiment.

[Snake45]

The old Pactra Flat Steel would have been great for this. The current Testor "Steel" isn't nearly as good--it's shinier and flakier.

You might try mixing the Testor Steel with a medium-dark very flat gray such as Model Master Gunship Gray 36118. It might also be interesting to sort of semi-mix those two colors on a palate and apply with a brush, being careful not to mix them too thoroughly.

Oh, just remembered--Krylon has a special paint called Looking Glass that is supposed to turn any glass surface into a mirror when sprayed on the inside. I bought a can hoping it would be a good chrome. It wasn't (used as normal paint), but I think it will be a good paint for airplane 5" HVAR rockets, which are a sort of slightly metallic medium gray. This might be darn close to what you're looking for.

[Foxer]

Probably a photo of what you're looking for would help narrow down the answers.

[SfanGoch]

The obvious choice is MM Metalizer Gunmetal. It's supposed to replicate a zinc phosphate finish as found on firearms such as M16/M4, etc.

[Snake45]

The obvious choice is MM Metalizer Gunmetal. It's supposed to replicate a zinc phosphate finish as found on firearms such as M16/M4, etc.

The only problem with this is that there are at least three distinct shades of phosphate ("Parkerizing") commonly seen on US firearms of WWII and since--maybe even a few more than that. I don't know which one MM "Gunmetal" purports to represent--or which shade GM used.  

 

[SfanGoch]

Flat Neutral Gray paint simulates gray zinc phosphate, while the MM Gunmetal Metalizer is more to the black version. If a very small amount of Metalizer non-buffing Steel is added to the neutral gray, it'll impart a slightly metallic sheen found on fresh, unoiled gray parkerized surfaces. I just compared that mixture to an extra M1911 barrel I reparkerized a couple of years ago.

[Quick GMC]

These valve covers are MM Metalizer Gun Metal over gray primer

 

 

[Drake69]

Gonna have to remember that trick. Beautiful.

[gtx6970]

 

Check me if I'm wrong here, but weren't/aren't  parts such as hood latch striker plates (indeed the latch itself) and hood hinges originally cadmium-plated?

 

Art

Depends entirely the car / model  being replicated.

I think most GM stuff is / was a dark grey phosphate .

Mopars are/were a dark brownish red  colored zink on the hood latch stuff and the trunk latch stuf is clear zinc.

 

[swede70]

Thanks for the interest and kind responses,

Indeed, there are different shades out there - and sometimes on the same topic given different suppliers contributed this assembly and that!  Playing around with what I had in hand, for this GM topic it seems Testor's Metal Master Titanium sprayed from a distance followed up with Tamiya Flat Clear will likely be the way to go.  I do have some MM as well as Tamiya Gunmetal, hence I will apply myself to experimenting given how very nice the 'Quick GMC's' Super Stock Hemi appears. 

The parts intended to be finished indeed include a hood latch striker plate and the hood hinge assemblies as rudimentary as they are on the 1:12th Camaro kit.  Another thing I'm finding out is that there is no shortage of so-so quality restorations where much work bears little relation to what originally came down the line.  I suppose too that I'm unduly influenced by copious study of Hemming's Muscle Machines and the like, and hence carry in standards that I couldn't hope to afford in 1:1.  Well and by golly - it's MY (scale) Camaro! 

-

...this would be a '68 with a later '69 cross ram seal and presumed fiberglass ZL2 'Super Scoop' cowl induction hood.  A bit confusing to look at,  a nice restoration surely, while the image was chosen to reveal the hood latch striker plate (if my nomenclature is correct) finish.  Reviewing this, I notice that the hood hinges look nice in MM Titanium, although my striker plate isn't quite happy painted identically...

...this would be a '69 with the same system, plus '69 valve covers and such.  Best view of the hood hinges, although my guess is that 'his' wheel shroud black is a bit too glossy, whereas that gold cad. power brake booster chamber is blinding!   It's so challenging to see to everything even as I'm not doing much more than paint.  I suspect this is the Lingenfelter Collection '69 Z/28 in Olympic Gold - a lovely shade this. 

-

I have a first generation Camaro restoration house that is situated close to where I'm based that sells some simulation of gray phosphate in a rattle can, although at $28.95 I'd hope that a lifetime supply was found within.  I think I'm good, although I will attempt to shop for a well illuminated image to plug into this thread consistent with affording those looking in of that which I speak (sorry not to do this first thing).  I suppose in time I ought to dive into the Alclad range and 'mix my own' so to speak, although at present I really need to tidy up and complete consistent with building my confidence back up. 

-

If it helps, I've tried to scribble down a few other rattle can 'point and squirt' standards that seem to work without huge effort, whereas feedback as to better options or techniques is of course most welcome.

 

30 degree chassis black: Krylon Semi-Flat black or Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel Multipurpose Coating Semigloss Black DA 1603

60 degree engine accessory black: Currently using Tamiya Semigloss Black TS-29.  It still seems a bit too glossy, hence feedback and/or impressions sought.

Old Koni shock absorber Orange/Red: (material to be inserted soon)

Newer Koni shock absorber Orange/Red: (material to be inserted soon)

 

Thanks for examining this post and thread...

 

Mike K.

Edited August 7, 2015 by swede70
...my usual habit of continually correcting everything.

[Snake45]

That one hood latch plate looks exactly like Model Master Gunship Gray 36118.

[swede70]

That one hood latch plate looks exactly like Model Master Gunship Gray 36118.

Thanks for the input - I'm heading to the nearby hobby shop to check out same. 

Mike K.

[swede70]

Just a brief update,

...this would be my 1:12th Camaro taking shape.  MM Titanium in a rattle can was used on the sketchy hood hinges, while the hood striker plate will likely need something different yet.  Notice I'm playing around with air filter colors, trying here to approximate a dried out and long neglected low mileage original.  Thanks...

 

Mike K.

 

Edited August 9, 2015 by swede70