Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

It was hard to see the fine scribed line while cutting, even with my 2X magnifiers, so I stuck the plastic model piece on that I'm using as a template to work to.

Would like to find a longer bit in this size so I could get more of a top view of the work...also need better focused lighting on the work.

Image
Posted

Jumped up to the 1/2" bit for hoggin off the excess material more quickly & stayed with it for the initial rough shaping.

Now, back to the 3/16" for the finer work.

Image

Posted

 

Waiting on hardware for the side cover before doing layout & drilling for bolts.
So, took it out of the machine so I can proceed with other stuff, while waiting.
Here it is, roughed in with the bearing retainer hub/oil seal.

Image
Posted

Ray this is really a great progression here and I'm happy to see that your skills advance so nicely.  Very good stuff to watch and view, looks like your new hobby corner has taken shape.  Compliments.

Posted

Thanks for stepping in & taking a look, Michael.  :)

Certainly appreciate your comments.

I'm happy with my results, given my extreme lack of experience.

I now have a pair of side covers with hubs.

Image

One piece at a time.

Image
Posted

Piece by piece.  Very true, and humbling too.  Those machined parts look exact and by gosh, it looks like fun too!  I love getting a super clean and polished look on metal.

Just last week I finished a milling job and the whole time I kept thinking, "now get the camera out and post some pics".  Gotta love it.  As a matter of fact, I do love working with metal in small scale, very satisfying.

Thanks for sharing your progress.

Posted

It is fun...& humbling...& challenging.

Ya, I really like the machined finish, as well.

More hardware.

I've got it from 00-90 through 4-40 in stainless.
Nothing looks more like metal than metal!!!

Image
Posted (edited)

The chipaway method...just keep chippinaway at it...

Does feel good to finally have things happening...after a year of focused study...reading & watching videos on the subject...& saving my lunch money to buy the machine...

Got the other side drilled & parted off of the core plug.

Image

Image

 

Edited by Ognib
Posted

Well now look at this!  Excellent.  Ray it looks like that piece can soon be bolted on and driven off.  Your progress is commendable.

Question:  I know there are different levels of hardness in aluminum.  Do you use a milling oil with the bits you're using?  I suppose they're carbide burs, I thought about after viewing a few previous pics earlier and the shavings that were mounting up.  The shavings looked dry, hence the discussion about a suction setup to keep the piece clean.  The working life of those expensive cutters/burs could be greatly extended with the use of a milling oil.  The stuff is cheap.  You won't have any metal dust either.  Just gunk, that can be slid off the table with a funky brush.  No dusty metal flying around either, better for the eyes.

Please excuse my butting in, even a cheap mineral oil would help as long as the rpm's aren't too high.  Smells clean too.  Heck, you could even take a swig before applying the oil to the bur and object.  It's healthy.

Posted (edited)

 

Not butting in Michael, I appreciate the comments!

Ya, it's starting to come together & look like something.

I'm astounded at the sheer number of hours/days I've got invested in these pieces at this point.

I'm sure as I gain experience, things will move somewhat more quickly...but...ARGHH!  Guess I shouldn't be too distressed over it though...took almost 2 weeks to bend a set of headers for the car that I was happy with.....

I've done a lot of reading on a few machinist forums & noticed many recommendations for the use of WD-40 as a cutting lubricant on aluminum.  That's what I've been using.  However, if there's a better choice, I'd switch.

Some of the very light cuts, I've been doing dry.

Tim also suggested a shop vac hose close to the work.  However, the room is so small, when I put a shop vac in there I can't get in to work.

My plan is to put the vac outside the room by the air compressor & plumb in a pvc line from the vac to the mill & accomplish it that way.

Edited by Ognib
Posted

This is very cool stuff...I'm diggin it!

Got the mounting surface machined for one of the side covers...

Image

The high material provides for the stiffening ribs & will allow the back of the case to be shaped to match the profile of the back cover...I have some ideas as how to accomplish that...see how it works out...

Image

as well as for rounding the snout to fit the front driveshaft hub.

Image
Posted

Hi Ray,

  This thread is awesome!!!!!!   Watching you machine these parts is very informative.  Appreciate the effort you take to document your progress. The parts look great.

 

  Randy

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the comments, guys!  :)

Randy, the documentation is all part of the fun in this for me.

My point of view...a build thread should show the build, step by step, so that's what I try to do.

Decisions, decisions...do I use a #1 or #2 bolt for the base of the side cover?

Image

Got the other mounting surface cut...next step, get the sides attached to the case.

Image

 

 

Edited by Ognib
Posted (edited)

Ray, I think stick to the same size as the ones shown on the smaller ring.  Smaller is often better on models, plus there are more of them so they won't be too dominant.  Whatcha think?

 

PS:  I just read the post from the top of the page, about your lighting needs.  What you need for this application is "cold lighting".  The best there is for such.

Edited by 10thumbs
Posted (edited)

I don't know...the small ring has #0-80...when I put that size in the larger piece, it doesn't make much of a visual impact, just kinda gets lost down in there, due to the small size.

Have to sleep on this one for a few days.

machshp67_zpssuuhmpgl.jpg

machshp68_zpsa3lb3sxf.jpg

 

Edited by Ognib
Posted

My two cents...

I would consider the real world unit you are "modeling", if the 1:1 units use same size bolts for the side plates and the bearing retainers then that's what I would go with.

From a physical aspect, I think larger bolts would be used on the larger piece to distribute the load on the side plate mounting area.

Posted (edited)

The lettering on the car expresses my entire concept for it.

Visual impact is the only thing a static model has going for it.

Balance & perspective & proportion...

 

autocrosscoupe380_zpsbbgffj8n.jpg

When it's mounted in the frame, there will be inboard brake rotors & calipers as well as mounting tabs & the structure of the cage itself.

Hardware needs to be bold enough so it can still make it's own visual statement in the midst of everything else going on around it...hummm

autocrosscoupe458_zpsjfcna4jk.jpg

Edited by Ognib
Posted

Quick change back cover, take 3...out of position drilling for bolt holes aborted the first 2...gotta get it right.

Have to check in to the "cold lighting" that Michael mentioned earlier.  Even with my 2X flip downs, hard for my old eyes to see where to put the bit...

machshp69_zpsqr3cpxns.jpg

 

Posted (edited)

My two cents...

I would consider the real world unit you are "modeling", if the 1:1 units use same size bolts for the side plates and the bearing retainers then that's what I would go with.

From a physical aspect, I think larger bolts would be used on the larger piece to distribute the load on the side plate mounting area.

Hi Mike, thanks for stopping in... :)

Part of what makes this so interesting is that although I am loosely using plastic big deuce parts as a template, I'm making no attempt to copy the parts exactly.

In my prep for doing the qc assembly, I've also looked closely at the Winters qc & others.

In the end though, I'm building the pictures that have evolved in my brain.

To accomplish the outrageous concept that I have for the car, everything needs to be bold & "muscular" in design...to the max!

But...without spilling over & becoming grotesquely obscene...thus my quandary over how big do I dare go on the bolt heads

 

Edited by Ognib

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...