Ognib Posted June 26, 2016 Author Posted June 26, 2016 It was hard to see the fine scribed line while cutting, even with my 2X magnifiers, so I stuck the plastic model piece on that I'm using as a template to work to.Would like to find a longer bit in this size so I could get more of a top view of the work...also need better focused lighting on the work.
Ognib Posted June 26, 2016 Author Posted June 26, 2016 Jumped up to the 1/2" bit for hoggin off the excess material more quickly & stayed with it for the initial rough shaping. Now, back to the 3/16" for the finer work.
Ognib Posted July 2, 2016 Author Posted July 2, 2016 More progress.I have hardware ordered...tracking says it'll be here tomorrow.
Ognib Posted July 2, 2016 Author Posted July 2, 2016 Part of the hardware arrived today. 00-90 & 0-80, hex head cap screws in 18-8 stainless.
Ognib Posted July 3, 2016 Author Posted July 3, 2016 Waiting on hardware for the side cover before doing layout & drilling for bolts.So, took it out of the machine so I can proceed with other stuff, while waiting.Here it is, roughed in with the bearing retainer hub/oil seal.
10thumbs Posted July 9, 2016 Posted July 9, 2016 Ray this is really a great progression here and I'm happy to see that your skills advance so nicely. Very good stuff to watch and view, looks like your new hobby corner has taken shape. Compliments.
Ognib Posted July 10, 2016 Author Posted July 10, 2016 Thanks for stepping in & taking a look, Michael. Certainly appreciate your comments. I'm happy with my results, given my extreme lack of experience. I now have a pair of side covers with hubs.One piece at a time.
10thumbs Posted July 10, 2016 Posted July 10, 2016 Piece by piece. Very true, and humbling too. Those machined parts look exact and by gosh, it looks like fun too! I love getting a super clean and polished look on metal.Just last week I finished a milling job and the whole time I kept thinking, "now get the camera out and post some pics". Gotta love it. As a matter of fact, I do love working with metal in small scale, very satisfying.Thanks for sharing your progress.
Ognib Posted July 11, 2016 Author Posted July 11, 2016 It is fun...& humbling...& challenging. Ya, I really like the machined finish, as well. More hardware. I've got it from 00-90 through 4-40 in stainless.Nothing looks more like metal than metal!!!
Twokidsnosleep Posted July 12, 2016 Posted July 12, 2016 Wow look at that taking shape. You must feel like a proud new parent!!
Ognib Posted July 13, 2016 Author Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) The chipaway method...just keep chippinaway at it... Does feel good to finally have things happening...after a year of focused study...reading & watching videos on the subject...& saving my lunch money to buy the machine... Got the other side drilled & parted off of the core plug. Edited July 13, 2016 by Ognib
10thumbs Posted July 13, 2016 Posted July 13, 2016 Well now look at this! Excellent. Ray it looks like that piece can soon be bolted on and driven off. Your progress is commendable.Question: I know there are different levels of hardness in aluminum. Do you use a milling oil with the bits you're using? I suppose they're carbide burs, I thought about after viewing a few previous pics earlier and the shavings that were mounting up. The shavings looked dry, hence the discussion about a suction setup to keep the piece clean. The working life of those expensive cutters/burs could be greatly extended with the use of a milling oil. The stuff is cheap. You won't have any metal dust either. Just gunk, that can be slid off the table with a funky brush. No dusty metal flying around either, better for the eyes.Please excuse my butting in, even a cheap mineral oil would help as long as the rpm's aren't too high. Smells clean too. Heck, you could even take a swig before applying the oil to the bur and object. It's healthy.
Ognib Posted July 13, 2016 Author Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) Not butting in Michael, I appreciate the comments!Ya, it's starting to come together & look like something.I'm astounded at the sheer number of hours/days I've got invested in these pieces at this point.I'm sure as I gain experience, things will move somewhat more quickly...but...ARGHH! Guess I shouldn't be too distressed over it though...took almost 2 weeks to bend a set of headers for the car that I was happy with.....I've done a lot of reading on a few machinist forums & noticed many recommendations for the use of WD-40 as a cutting lubricant on aluminum. That's what I've been using. However, if there's a better choice, I'd switch.Some of the very light cuts, I've been doing dry.Tim also suggested a shop vac hose close to the work. However, the room is so small, when I put a shop vac in there I can't get in to work.My plan is to put the vac outside the room by the air compressor & plumb in a pvc line from the vac to the mill & accomplish it that way. Edited July 13, 2016 by Ognib
Ognib Posted July 15, 2016 Author Posted July 15, 2016 This is very cool stuff...I'm diggin it! Got the mounting surface machined for one of the side covers...The high material provides for the stiffening ribs & will allow the back of the case to be shaped to match the profile of the back cover...I have some ideas as how to accomplish that...see how it works out...as well as for rounding the snout to fit the front driveshaft hub.
Randy D Posted July 16, 2016 Posted July 16, 2016 Hi Ray, This thread is awesome!!!!!! Watching you machine these parts is very informative. Appreciate the effort you take to document your progress. The parts look great. Randy
Ognib Posted July 16, 2016 Author Posted July 16, 2016 (edited) Thanks for the comments, guys! Randy, the documentation is all part of the fun in this for me. My point of view...a build thread should show the build, step by step, so that's what I try to do. Decisions, decisions...do I use a #1 or #2 bolt for the base of the side cover?Got the other mounting surface cut...next step, get the sides attached to the case. Edited July 17, 2016 by Ognib
10thumbs Posted July 16, 2016 Posted July 16, 2016 (edited) Ray, I think stick to the same size as the ones shown on the smaller ring. Smaller is often better on models, plus there are more of them so they won't be too dominant. Whatcha think? PS: I just read the post from the top of the page, about your lighting needs. What you need for this application is "cold lighting". The best there is for such. Edited July 16, 2016 by 10thumbs
Ognib Posted July 16, 2016 Author Posted July 16, 2016 (edited) I don't know...the small ring has #0-80...when I put that size in the larger piece, it doesn't make much of a visual impact, just kinda gets lost down in there, due to the small size. Have to sleep on this one for a few days. Edited July 16, 2016 by Ognib
blunc Posted July 17, 2016 Posted July 17, 2016 My two cents...I would consider the real world unit you are "modeling", if the 1:1 units use same size bolts for the side plates and the bearing retainers then that's what I would go with.From a physical aspect, I think larger bolts would be used on the larger piece to distribute the load on the side plate mounting area.
Ognib Posted July 17, 2016 Author Posted July 17, 2016 (edited) The lettering on the car expresses my entire concept for it. Visual impact is the only thing a static model has going for it. Balance & perspective & proportion... When it's mounted in the frame, there will be inboard brake rotors & calipers as well as mounting tabs & the structure of the cage itself. Hardware needs to be bold enough so it can still make it's own visual statement in the midst of everything else going on around it...hummm Edited July 17, 2016 by Ognib
Ognib Posted July 17, 2016 Author Posted July 17, 2016 Quick change back cover, take 3...out of position drilling for bolt holes aborted the first 2...gotta get it right. Have to check in to the "cold lighting" that Michael mentioned earlier. Even with my 2X flip downs, hard for my old eyes to see where to put the bit...
Ognib Posted July 18, 2016 Author Posted July 18, 2016 (edited) My two cents... I would consider the real world unit you are "modeling", if the 1:1 units use same size bolts for the side plates and the bearing retainers then that's what I would go with. From a physical aspect, I think larger bolts would be used on the larger piece to distribute the load on the side plate mounting area. Hi Mike, thanks for stopping in... Part of what makes this so interesting is that although I am loosely using plastic big deuce parts as a template, I'm making no attempt to copy the parts exactly. In my prep for doing the qc assembly, I've also looked closely at the Winters qc & others. In the end though, I'm building the pictures that have evolved in my brain. To accomplish the outrageous concept that I have for the car, everything needs to be bold & "muscular" in design...to the max! But...without spilling over & becoming grotesquely obscene...thus my quandary over how big do I dare go on the bolt heads Edited July 18, 2016 by Ognib
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