Zoom Posted December 20, 2015 Author Posted December 20, 2015 Yes, that was a good idea!Thank you Cato.You’re perfectly right that I may need to “open” the door half’s again to make some maintenance.
bbowser Posted December 22, 2015 Posted December 22, 2015 Amazing work Bo! Thanks for sharing your build.
Zoom Posted December 22, 2015 Author Posted December 22, 2015 Thank you Bruce!It´s going sloooowly forward.
Zoom Posted December 23, 2015 Author Posted December 23, 2015 (edited) Some works with the spotlight/center headlight.Painted inside the housings with some chrome/silver to get rid of the “brass shine”. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket
Zoom Posted January 2, 2016 Author Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) A new year and new challenges. Is this the right “height” of the rumble seat cover, when it is in open position?I don´t have any good reference photos. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket
GTJUNIOR Posted January 2, 2016 Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) Looks about right from what I can remember in reference pics that I have seen before. Nice progress by the way. Edited January 2, 2016 by GTJUNIOR Adding text.
Cato Posted January 2, 2016 Posted January 2, 2016 Careful Bo. Looks like a fracture in the plastic where the rear fender meets body at the corner of the door.
Zoom Posted January 2, 2016 Author Posted January 2, 2016 Cato you are right. My complete kit was missing this “small” part, so the only one I could get was this used maroon main body.I think I can manage this crack with some filler and sanding before painting.
Zoom Posted January 16, 2016 Author Posted January 16, 2016 (edited) I think I got a decent fit for the doors. Maybe I have to take away some tenth of a millimeter around, to make place for the paint. Yes the door handles work and also the windows crank.I was not pleased with the fit of the hood, so I have to redo it, and glue the hinges one more time. Hope it will work this time. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket
Zoom Posted January 17, 2016 Author Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) I have, which said earlier in this thread, that the radiator braces come to close to the engine top. I cut of the plastics “tops” and save some millimeters. Now I shall put some BMF on them. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket
Zoom Posted January 25, 2016 Author Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) Trying to paint this red beast to white, not easy!The red tone is slightly visible through the white primer and paint, more primer and paint maybe.I have put this question in “Modeling how-tos” Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket
Cato Posted January 25, 2016 Posted January 25, 2016 Trying to paint this red beast to white, not easy!The red tone is slightly visible through the white primer and paint, more primer and paint maybe.I have put this question in “Modeling how-tos” You don't have to Bo. Get another even coat of primer on it. Then spray a 'barrier' coat of Future acrylic on and let dry thoroughly. Then another even coat of primer, sanded lightly. You don't need heavy coats of primer.
Zoom Posted January 25, 2016 Author Posted January 25, 2016 Cato, thank you!Can I put a layer of the primer to the last layer of paint??This Future your mention. Can I get that I an razzle can? I don´t have any airbrush.
MrObsessive Posted January 25, 2016 Posted January 25, 2016 Bo, Future is excellent in sealing that nasty red or yellow plastic from bleed-through. Some fellas poo-poo the idea that plastic can "bleed", but it does something to that effect as the plastic may have a strong color content in that regular primering doesn't do the trick. Eventually, enough coats of primer would stop the bleed-through, but then if there's scripts or other details that need to be seen, they're buried under multiple coats of primer. I like to use another product in sealing bodywork, and colored plastic.............. Been using this for awhile, and if this doesn't work, nothing will! I airbrush it on (I recommend the heavy tip for this), and alcohol will thin it out if need be. Keep up the great work! I had one of these Pocher kits years ago, (the one with the dual spare and folding top), but 1:8 scales are not really my thing, and I eventually sold it to Harry P, who built it here on the board.
MrObsessive Posted January 25, 2016 Posted January 25, 2016 This Future your mention. Can I get that I an razzle can? I don´t have any airbrush.Future can only be brushed or airbrushed on. The actual name is "Pledge with Future Shine". If you need to brush it on, I recommend going to the hardware store and pick up a "foam brush". Much less chance of seeing brush strokes if using one of those. Hope this helps!
Cato Posted January 25, 2016 Posted January 25, 2016 Cato, thank you! Can I put a layer of the primer to the last layer of paint?? This Future your mention. Can I get that I an razzle can? I don´t have any airbrush. No Bo, it is a large bottle of floor care product. You CAN apply with brush this way; get a soft art brush at least 1/2" wide and flow it on. Work quickly and smoothly but don't get drips. It will self-level when completely dry. It you have any marks at all, you can very lightly scuff them with 1000 grit or 4-0 steel wool. If it's a poor application the whole thing can be removed with Windex and warm water and start again.Bill's product above is also excellent but you need airbrush. Nick's method in your other thread works well with the silver paint and that you can get in sprays. Just don't keep loading primers on. Sand between so there's not too much and you have an even surface.
sjordan2 Posted January 25, 2016 Posted January 25, 2016 Bear in mind that Bo is in Sweden and the suggested products may have different names or not be available.
Zoom Posted January 25, 2016 Author Posted January 25, 2016 Thank you Bill!Nice to get suggestions for my problems.I will try to get some “Future” but, as Skip says, I have to look if we have a similar product here in Sweden. Otherwise I have to go the big “Internet” JWhen I get some, I will try Catos suggestion.
Zoom Posted January 30, 2016 Author Posted January 30, 2016 (edited) While I am waiting for the ”Future” to come from USA, I start with the steering wheel. I have bought the horn ring from MMC, but made my own ignition lever from al wire and a washer and I used the Pocher steering wheel. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket
Zoom Posted January 31, 2016 Author Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) Thank you Cato!My next step is to put some leather on my resin front seats. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket
Zoom Posted February 2, 2016 Author Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) One of four pieces has got some leather on.I ran out of CA-gel, so more to come another day. Edited July 16, 2017 by Zoom No more Photobucket
Twokidsnosleep Posted February 2, 2016 Posted February 2, 2016 The leather application looks greatThis will be one classy Merc when it is doneGreat job
peteski Posted February 3, 2016 Posted February 3, 2016 You should be able to find info about what we call Future in http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html and how to find it in your country.
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