Againmikewins Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 I just stripped my 1964 Impala in purple power. It had two primer coats of Testors model master primer and three coats of Testors model master black metallic. It sat for about 24 hours and I'm happy with the results. However, it didn't appear to get through the primer. The car is currently soaking in water and dawn dish detergent. My question is this; Do I sand the body back to plastic or am I able to spray it with Duplicolor primer/sealant? Thanks for any and all help! This is my first model back after a 14 year hiatus. I've got 40 more kits waiting for their chance to be built and displayed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) My question is this; Do I sand the body back to plastic or am I able to spray it with Duplicolor primer/sealant? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Sanding "back to plastic" is usually a pretty good way to obliterate fine details. Shooting more sealers and primers over previous coats of stuff tends to soften details too, of course.Try to find a stripper that will take everything off, and afterwards scrub the model with hot water and a mildly abrasive cleanser like Comet, and a toothbrush to get into the crevices and corners. Then shoot your primer on bare plastic.A discussion of what strippers remove what finish products can be found here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/83153-paint-strippers-what-to-use/ Edited October 17, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Againmikewins Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 My question is this; Do I sand the body back to plastic or am I able to spray it with Duplicolor primer/sealant? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Sanding "back to plastic" is usually a pretty good way to obliterate fine details. Shooting more sealers and primers over previous coats of stuff tends to soften details too, of course.Try to find a stripper that will take everything off, and afterwards scrub the model with hot water and a mildly abrasive cleanser like Comet, and a toothbrush to get into the crevices and corners. Then shoot your primer on bare plastic.A discussion of what strippers remove what finish products can be found here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/83153-paint-strippers-what-to-use/ I'll have to check that out! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 When I first pull anything out of the pond (wearing vinyl gloves, of course) I hit the trim and panel line areas with a relatively stiff toothbrush; that usually gets a lot of the residue in those areas. I do that before rinsing anything, while the item is still wet with the paint remover. A round toothpick will get the more stubborn areas and won't wreck any of the detail. If anything substantial still remains, back into the pond it goes...check it again in an hour or two, and repeat the process. Only when it is as clean as I think it will get, does it get rinsed. If there is any of that trim/panel line residue left after that, you can usually get that later with (again) the toothpick, and (in extreme cases) a very light touch with an #11 X-Acto blade. Some colors and primers penetrate the plastic, so you can't get it back 100% to the original plastic color. But if the paint remover is the right one for what you are trying to get rid of, you should be able to remove all of the paint that's on top of the plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGTRUCK Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 You may try letting it sit again in your solution. I had a stubborn resin body shot in automotive paint, it took 3 days in super clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helper Monkey Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 I have tried the Super Clean / Purple Stuff. It works pretty good. I needed to leave things in for a while to get the primer I had to come off. I discovered that If i used a very stiff nylon watercolor scrubber brush and some brake fluid, the primer / paint came right off with some scrubbing. I tried the same thing with the other stuff. It took a whole lot more elbow grease to remove the paint / primer. Of course I kept a bucket of water nearby and dunked the part in water to keep the amount of time brake fluid was in contact with the part. I hear brake fluid will eat plastic. I have yet to see it happen but I did not leave it on for any long period of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 You may try letting it sit again in your solution. I had a stubborn resin body shot in automotive paint, it took 3 days in super clean.I agree. Give it a couple of days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10thumbs Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Guys, I realize paint stripping is a big theme here, and pages of "what's your favorite" is here to read also.I can soak a painted body in this stuff and all paint is gone in 5 minutes. Did it today too. It does not harm metal, glue or styrene/resin.Dowanol PM. Dow Chemicals. 1 liter costs about $10. Excellent stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTalmage Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Also DOT3 brake fluid. It's smelly, it's messy, and it's not great to work with, but man, it gets just about anything off. Even stubborn primer. I used duplicolor primer on my '55 Street Machine chevy bel air and I screwed up the paint, and needed to strip it bare, and that was the only stuff that would touch tamiya paint and duplicolor primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10thumbs Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Hi Jesse, that's interesting. I used German brake fluid on a Lindberg 64 Dodge and the styrene started melting at the windshield pillar. The body cannot be used again as the surface was etched as well. Is there a difference with the DOT numbers? If I recollect, I had DOT 4 brake fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Soaking in 92% Isopropyl alcohol might get the rest of that primer out of the corners. Worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-body fan Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 (edited) Soaking in 92% Isopropyl alcohol might get the rest of that primer out of the corners. Worth a try.This works on that primer. You can wipe it off with a cloth with alcohol on it. I found out the hard way prepping for a color coat. Edited October 19, 2015 by b-body fan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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