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Posted (edited)

I have dug out this box of 1/32 scale gluebombs/o;l builds and have decided to rebuild at least some of them. They are all complete, except for the Sunbeam Rapier and the 1/24 T body and interior. The only actual breakage is the front axle on the Willys but I can get round that. They were all built nearly 40 years ago and some have just disintegrated, probably due to the old type of cement.

The Aurora Chevy Pickup is probably the best place to start. The only added parts are the 1/25 exhaust pipes from (?) and a Merc steering wheel from an Airfix 250SL

I will post updates as and when.

Thanks for looking.

steve

 

IMG_2231.jpg

IMG_2232.jpg

Edited by Earl Marischal
Pic update
Posted

Nice start, you don't see to many 1/32 kits on the site. I have about 100 of these babies, one day I'm going do something with them. I'll be watching your progress

Posted (edited)

All of the 1/32 kits have potential whether you go "box stock" or take the builds to the limit of your skills.

The build below started as a Lindberg '34 Ford.

IMG_4612_zpsc78f1fc2.jpg

Edited by blunc
fix photo link
Posted

I like resurrecting old glue bombs and when they're your own it's magic. Good luck and don't hesitate asking questions here as there are many who restore here.

Posted

Thanks for the encouragement chaps!

I have decided to restore the Aurora Chevy Draggin' Wagon for starters. 

A good wash of the parts showed me that the red paint is fine but the yellow needs to be redone. The interior has faded badly and needs a repaint too.

Next job - strip the yellow and prime.

steve

Posted

I have now stripped the yellow paint. It was near 40 year old enamel and came off in sheets, much to my surprise. I have discovered how much fun this is turning out to be and having thoughts about the other 'wrecks'.

My intention is, basically, to restore the kit to how it was when I originally built it, but better. If you see what I mean. There's just one thing, l'm not sure about the yellow bonnet (hood) and wondered about doing it in satin black instead. I also think I will change the interior a bit. 

Anyone any thoughts?

Cheers

steve

PS Photos to follow eventually 

Posted (edited)

I have decided to strip all the gloss paint and restart from scratch. I will be retaining the red & yellow scheme but with a satin black bonnet/hood.

I'm really impressed with how well the gloss paint comes off using Precision Paints stripper. This is a UK product from a firm that deals in railway paints. Matt paint seems to take a lot more time and effort. Is this usual?

Have taken pics as I have gone along and will add later, hopefully.

steve 

Edited by Earl Marischal
Spelling
Posted

Here are the latest pics:

It got to this stage:

IMG_2238.thumb.jpg.5dead5976dd9f7ef688a8

And is now like this:

IMG_2239.thumb.jpg.64d9c14b64117cc9fdc35

IMG_2242.thumb.jpg.027c34f222689a385de46

In the background are the exhaust pipes and axles being painted matt black.

Next up will priming. The roof and tailgate are still going to be yellow but as the rest of the body will be red. I am going to assemble it as far as sensible and then prime it in one go before going to top coat. I will be using rattle cans for both.

Considering a few decals again as I'm sort of assuming it's a shop truck, certainly not a show rod ;)

Thanks for looking!

steve

Posted (edited)

 Matte paint seems to take a lot more time and effort. Is this usual?

Highly usual - only once have I found a flat black that came off easily in the purple stuff; it was 50-something-year-old enamel. I just this week stripped a chassis that was painted more recently and it took two days of soaking and two evenings of scrubbing to get it cleaned up well.

Good luck with this model - I used to see this kit often when I was little and they seem to pop up at toy shows a lot as well, but I never see them built for some reason.

Edited by ChrisBcritter

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