Matt Bacon Posted November 22, 2015 Posted November 22, 2015 This is the Hasegawa boxing of Monogram/s 1/24 kit, with additional white metal parts by Fine Molds. First up, the body in Zero Paints Guardsman Blue, with Zero 2K clear coat. This is as she came out of the paint shop. There are a couple of minor blemishes to polish out, but other than that I don't plan on doing any more "added shininess" Here's a few of the engine in progress, to compare and contrast the original and Fine Molds parts: And this young lady will be popping in from time to time in this thread. She's a Master Box figure, from their new "Pin-Up" series: Loads more work to do on her as well, but she's very nicely sculpted... ;-P bestest, M.
cobraman Posted November 22, 2015 Posted November 22, 2015 Great ! Another Cobra build to watch. I love it !
afx Posted November 23, 2015 Posted November 23, 2015 Great start Matt. Are you building a particular car? The white metal engine has crisp detail. Wish some one would cast it resin.
Matt Bacon Posted February 18, 2016 Author Posted February 18, 2016 (edited) ...gosh, it's been a long time since I documented anything on this build! Anyway, on with the show: You can get a much better idea of the colour of the body. It's Zero Paints colour matched Guardsman Blue. Not too many parts here. The FM version of the kit provides the wheel carriers and diff casing in white metal, and both are crisper than the plastic mouldings Again, you can tell which is the metal engine and which the plastic, but Monogram's original tooling is pretty good. Now for the airbox, which is noticeably too chunky as a plastic part. Crash moulded replacement. The plastic is packaging material. Thin masking tape painted black for the "foam" seal. It's amazing how much detail both companies have put in to the carb block, considering it's almost all going to disappear under the air filter... bestest, M. Edited February 18, 2016 by Matt Bacon
Matt Bacon Posted February 18, 2016 Author Posted February 18, 2016 The kit part. The instruments are just dry brushed with white, highlighted here and there with red, and then filled with Citadel 'Ard Coat clear varnish. Test fitted. That big ol' engine is certainly shoehorned in there! bestest, M.
Davewilly Posted February 18, 2016 Posted February 18, 2016 Looks Great so far. Nice details on the dash......Hows the Pin-up gal coming along?
afx Posted February 18, 2016 Posted February 18, 2016 Very nice Matt. Would love to get my hands on the white metal engine and have it resin cast.
Speedfreak Posted February 18, 2016 Posted February 18, 2016 Looking good Matt. Are the instrument bezels on the dash painted with chrome?
Dann Tier Posted February 18, 2016 Posted February 18, 2016 I love Cobras, and you are doing a Fantastic job!!
rbarlow1 Posted February 18, 2016 Posted February 18, 2016 Absolutely beautiful so far. Love all the realistic detail, staining on the springs, etc.
Roadrunner Posted February 18, 2016 Posted February 18, 2016 If I were to ever do a Cobra, and I might, blue is probably the route I'd take too.
Matt Bacon Posted February 19, 2016 Author Posted February 19, 2016 Thanks, guys... Progress is being made -- don't credit me too far, please, Rob: the "staining is just "good enough" painting! The handbrake and gear shift are white metal parts, the pedals, original Monogram plastic. Pretty good, I reckon. Odd how they did the AC logos, but ignored the accelerator completely! Wheels, huh? So, these are the original white metal rims, untouched. There or thereabouts, but I’m not quite convinced… And these are the Monogram plastic parts, the rear faces are sprayed with Humbrol Metalcote Steel, the fronts with Humbrol Aluminium (56) …and this: Is what they look like built up. bestest, M.
Matt Bacon Posted February 19, 2016 Author Posted February 19, 2016 (edited) The white metal rims, gently sprayed with Tamiya “Smoke” and flat varnished. Now, tyres…Original hard vinyl tyres, press fitted onto a socket, and spun up to sand off the mould seam and distress. Post-“wearing”. I appear to have a pair of Michelin TRXs at the front, and some Goodyears at the rear! The end result. Air filters. (R) the white metal Fine Molds version, (L) the Monogra, plastic piece, with the help of a Gundam pen… bestest,M. Edited February 19, 2016 by Matt Bacon
Matt Bacon Posted February 19, 2016 Author Posted February 19, 2016 And the engines, more or less done… bestest, M.
Matt Bacon Posted February 19, 2016 Author Posted February 19, 2016 Finally, the cockpit is getting there: The wires will become the door latch handles. A crude but workable system, and the FM white metal parts are exquisitely detailed… bestest, M
eko89 Posted February 19, 2016 Posted February 19, 2016 i did same style door handles , very nice matt . more photos
afx Posted February 20, 2016 Posted February 20, 2016 Logos on the clutch and brake pedals only is correct.
Matt Bacon Posted February 20, 2016 Author Posted February 20, 2016 I'm sure that's true... but I'm pretty sure that not having an accelerator pedal _at all_ isn't right. I shall be making one today... ;-Pbestest,M.
Matt Bacon Posted February 22, 2016 Author Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) First of all, thanks to cobraman and afx for helping me out with a question about the orientation of brake callipers on a 427 S/C. afx sent through a link to a site with many many detail photos which not only answered the question I was asking, but provides a tonne of reference for other bits of the car. Good man! 1965 Shelby Competition Cobra This is another test fit, now the engine is fully finished: Starting to look like a car now. NB: Before you glue the engine in position, feed the lower radiator hose through the centre lower triangular gap in the chassis frame cross bracing, and leave it loose in there. It will not go through with the engine in place, past the crank pulley. It will ESPECIALLY not go through it you try and work it the way the Revell/Monogram instructions would have you do it, after attaching it to the radiator. At least the Hasegawa instructions want you to try and feed the pipe through separately, but it still won't go. (edited after the fact, in case you're reading this before or during your own build!) The exhaust manifolds are painted with a new paint from Vallejo Metal Color called, wait for it... "Exhaust Manifold". And washed with AK Interactive "Exhaust Wash". Im liking the effect very much. I polished the white metal discs, and left the callipers in rough bare metal, which looks pretty close to the real thing. Since the location of the rear discs on the frame is not very positive, I've glued them to the rear wheels instead. The front pair will go onto the chassis before the wheels are added, as the instructions suggest! Now for some seat belts... bestest, M. Edited February 24, 2016 by Matt Bacon New tip for builders
Dann Tier Posted February 22, 2016 Posted February 22, 2016 Looking great!! love the look of the exhaust manifolds!
Matt Bacon Posted February 23, 2016 Author Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks, gentlemen! I couldn't resist this: The help has arrived... bestest, M.
Matt Bacon Posted February 23, 2016 Author Posted February 23, 2016 ...and now, after that word from our sponsor... I'm using the white metal engine, obviously. But the plastic one isn't bad: The exhaust manifolds are clearly rather weedy by comparison, but otherwise I don't think it looks bad at all. Testing out the fit of the wheels. You start to realise how petite the chassis is when you see the wheels and engine in place. bestest, M.
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