Petetrucker07 Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Lookin good Terry. This is gonna be a really nice truck when it's done. Are you gonna leave the chassis as is or you gonna shorten it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gatorincebu Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Looks like you are off to a good start ! Be Well Gator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpeterbilt Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 Lookin good Terry. This is gonna be a really nice truck when it's done. Are you gonna leave the chassis as is or you gonna shorten it?Thats not the chassis that Im using, but it will be that long, yes. I want a stretched out old school west coaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpeterbilt Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 This is what I have found out about the Kenworth numbering system used in the 50's 60's and 70's:521, 821 and 921 is Single Drive Spring, Torsion or Air Ride Suspensions.522, K122 and W922 is "Monkey Motion" Tag Axle or other Tag setup Suspensions.523, K123 and W923 is Dual Drive Walking Beam (Timken or Hendrickson) or Air Ride Suspensions.524, K124 and W924 is Dual Drive Larger Capacity Timken or Big Six suspensions.525, 825, K125 and W925 is Dual Drive Torsion Bar suspension.I found this information on the ATHS Forums a while ago.Thanks very much for this info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim B Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Nice looking Old-school West Coast Truck. I like it.I'm not totally sure, but maybe Kenworth used the 500 series for gasoline powered trucks & the 800 series for diesel power trucks. Sounds reasonable, but it's just speculation. I've noticed that they used 500 & 800- series for both the Bullnose COE & the conventional. It doesn't look like they changed the designations until they made the 900-Series conventional in the 1956 & the K100 Series COE in 1963. The W900-Series (for Wide Hood) debuted in 1962. The flat-faced COEs were called the 500-Series as well prior the the K100 introduction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olskoolrodder Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Off to a great start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vettecote Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 That's looking cool...Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 I like the rim modification...nice result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gino Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 I like the rim modification...nice result.X2 ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowboy rich Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Lookin good Terry can't wait for your next updateRich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10thumbs Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Terry, I like the wheel mods and I'm looking forward to the plumbing aspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Buckaroo Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 That is a great idea for backdating the wheels. As you said they can make or break the truck.What will you use to replace the lugs ? Do they make a plastic stock in that shape ans size ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpeterbilt Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 That is a great idea for backdating the wheels. As you said they can make or break the truck.What will you use to replace the lugs ? Do they make a plastic stock in that shape ans size ?Thanks guys. Ive been wanting to do this to some of these wheels for awhile. The real split rim Alcoas never had that protruded ring on them. Sean, my plan was to use some hex rod and "round nose" it to look like the classic old lug covers. I havent figured out what size yet. Im sure I have some old lug covers laying around the shop. I have most of the hex rod sizes, so it shouldnt be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purepmd Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Terry, love the subject, the plan you laid out, and, obviously, the execution. Going to be a great build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helix Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Nice one Terry, have to agree with the wheels, they certainly make or break the build I'm thinking with mine to 'black-wash' or de-chrome and repaint silver just to get the 'look' right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpeterbilt Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 I dont have much to show at the moment, just a lot of sanding parts, etc. What I can show you, is that I decided to give ol GuitarSam a run for his money. Im opening the doors! Im also going to open up a few other panels. This cab is not the best quality, and most of this trim will be redone. Most of the panel lines arent straight, so they will be re-scribed. I decided that this truck had a tilt conversion done to the cab in the late 70's. Thats also when it was stretched. I want to able to tilt the cab, so thats the story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petetrucker07 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Sounds good to me.This will be a great lookin build with the doors and side boxes open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canso65 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 I'm looking forward to seeing more Terry.I've had limited experience with resin. Was it hard to cut the doors out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarsam326 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 I dont have much to show at the moment, just a lot of sanding parts, etc. What I can show you, is that I decided to give ol GuitarSam a run for his money. Im opening the doors! Im also going to open up a few other panels. Haa haa! Bring it man! Lol! Glad to see you're goin for it. The biggest challenge for me will be detailing the door panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Buckaroo Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Yeah Terry the resin dust is flying now , this will be way cool ! Now you know Clayton will be wanting to open his doors and suicide them now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRIPTROIT 71 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 This one is going to be nice! Great Work!! If I may ask, what did you use to cut open the doors? I usually use the backside of a hobby knife on styrene, but with the thickness of resin, I haven't tried. I was going to leave the doors alone on my H model, but if you and Sam are opening doors, I might have to reconsider and get with the program (LOL). My doors won't be suicide though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 I like the mods you're making to this...this is gonna be good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpeterbilt Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 I'm looking forward to seeing more Terry.I've had limited experience with resin. Was it hard to cut the doors out?This one is going to be nice! Great Work!! If I may ask, what did you use to cut open the doors? I usually use the backside of a hobby knife on styrene, but with the thickness of resin, I haven't tried. I was going to leave the doors alone on my H model, but if you and Sam are opening doors, I might have to reconsider and get with the program (LOL). My doors won't be suicide though.I used a scribe tool to cut the doors out. I will end up making new doors from styrene, because these arent in the best of shape(not from cutting them out,just the way they were cast). Cutting them out from resin is a little less "consistent" than styrene. What I mean by that is some parts of the resin are thicker than others. Also there might be internal air bubbles in the resin that might make your cutting tool go astray. Other than that, its no different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitarsam326 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 I haven't hacked my doors open yet, but i have cut the hood apart from the rad, etc and it seemed easier to cut than the styrene! I could be hallucinating though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superpeterbilt Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 I haven't hacked my doors open yet, but i have cut the hood apart from the rad, etc and it seemed easier to cut than the styrene! I could be hallucinating though...The resin that Dave uses cuts like butter. Thats stuff is great to work with. Im not surprised that it went easy. The resin my cab was cast in is harder and a little more brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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