bisc63 Posted April 2, 2017 Posted April 2, 2017 Why not? What is most unlikely is keeping those old drum brakes instead of discs! Don't forget you need some place for "brain boxes" for the electronic side of that engine, so the firewall could be dressed in some appropriate pieces.
pcm1977 Posted April 8, 2017 Author Posted April 8, 2017 Got a little work on this tonight. Test fitted the bottom of the body to the frame and installed the gas tank and battery box. The engine looks like it sits in the correct spot from the side Some of the painted parts. The body is panted, but when I took the picture I noticed the uneven clear coat, so it got a light sanding and another clear coat. Looks better now and will spend the night drying. The finished brake booster. I finished both rear shocks this evening. They both are functioning shocks. Thank you for looking/following.
pcm1977 Posted April 9, 2017 Author Posted April 9, 2017 (edited) Worked some more this evening. Spent some time attaching wires and boots to the coils. After a bit of cussing and wanting to put some tweezers through the wall, because I kept getting glue on them. I painted the seats a couple of nights ago and decided to take another look at the whole thing together. I mocked the engine, frame, grill, windshield, wheels and seats. I was struggling with the grill staying upright. I was looking over these pictures and I kind of like the grill tilted back a bit. Thank you for looking/following. Edited April 9, 2017 by pcm1977 Spelling error
Spex84 Posted April 9, 2017 Posted April 9, 2017 This is a cool idea; I'd love to build one like it someday. Nice coilover shocks!For your next project: Don't worry too much about the firewall. Get the engine sorted out, and then the firewall can just fill in the empty space around it. Recessed or flat firewalls with indents for the transmission and distributor are extremely common in 1:1 hot rods.My usual process for fitting an engine: set up the body/frame at desired ride height and angle (can be sitting on axles and wheels/tires, or just on blocks). Place the engine where it looks good in relation to the body and grill, with space for the pulleys and fan, and clearance under the oilpan. The intake manifold should be parallel to the ground (not the frame) and the transmission tailshaft should point straight at the rearend/differential.Now that the engine is well situated, I note where the new engine mounts will have to be located, and their angle/length, and build 'em. Then a transmission mount to keep that tailshaft in place.And now...hack the floor and firewall as much as required in order to fit them around the engine and trans!
pcm1977 Posted April 15, 2017 Author Posted April 15, 2017 (edited) Worked on painting some little pieces on this one tonight. Just about ready for some assembly. While I was waiting for stuff to dry and free up space in my dehydrator. I mocked stuff up... again. I placed the wheels on (no glue) to get an idea if the engine would clear the ground. Please don't mind the crooked wheels. I was also looking at the engine and could not wrap my head around how the exhaust fits, so I put a drop of glue on one of the flanges and placed the header loosely on the engine. This is a look from the top without the body on I also wanted to add a little bit to the steering wheel and I came up with this idea that the center of it could be blue like the arc reactor on Iron Man's chest. I also was looking at the plain looking grey seats I thought that they needed something also. So I figured maybe a small Iron Man face as if it was embroidered in the seat. I have some decal paper and was looking at using one of the two below. Thank you for looking/following. Edited April 15, 2017 by pcm1977
Mr. Metallic Posted April 18, 2017 Posted April 18, 2017 (edited) This is a cool build, and I've been following along. I give you credit for the way , when you've come upon an issue, have found your way to work around it.Just a small nit from me, but would you consider swapping out the seats, or at least modifying them? IMHO, they are far too tall. I know you're probably keeping them because they are from the Viper, so if you could possibly sever the seat at the bottom of the back and remove some of the height. This is just my suggestion.And, so you can keep the Buick style brakes, but simulate a performance upgrade to discs, there is already a 1:1 solution in place. The aftermarket sells disc brake sets that look like the Buick brakes. On a quick glance the only way to tell is there is a scoop on the backing plate to facilitate cooling. You could replicate this by adding the scoop. Sorry, I don't have an image, but try Googling it. Edited April 18, 2017 by Mr. Metallic
Jantrix Posted April 18, 2017 Posted April 18, 2017 I like what I'm seeing, except the seats. IMHO, the backs are way too high for the body.
GerN Posted April 18, 2017 Posted April 18, 2017 Good to see someone applying themselves to making a design decision work in a reasonably realistic manner. Kudos!
pcm1977 Posted May 1, 2017 Author Posted May 1, 2017 I worked a bit on this one this past weekend. Have no been getting to much done due to an out of town week-long vacation and my wrist bothering me. I attached the exhaust to the engine and placed it in the frame to measure it up for the extensions I will need to add before the muffler. I could have just bent up some styrene, but I have not had too much luck with bending the stuff lately, so I just added to the existing and painted it (in the dehydrator currently). Below are some pictures of the engine with exhaust in the frame with the body sitting on top. Hopefully I will get to more this evening. Mr. Metallic and Jantrix: Thank you for your input, but I think once the windshield is put on it helps take away from the height of the seats and the look fine. I don't look at the car being a '29 with a Viper engine. I look at it as being something that would happen if a '29 Ford and a 90's Viper spent too much time alone in the garage together . Thanks for looking/following.
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