Aoshima Murcielago LP670-4 SV (aka What Did I Do Wrong?)

[935k3]

I've had this happen a couple of times -- it's when the clear coat dissolves the base coat enough to free up the metallic flakes to move. so they cluster, and also don't have the random distribution of orientation that makes for a homogeneous "sparkle". There's not a lot you can do except respray. For future reference, you can either lay down more mist coats than usual, making sure each has dried before doing the next, so that when you get to the wet coat stage all that's immediately underneath the thicker layer of clear is more clear. Or you can can spray your base coat, and follow up with several coats of mixed base and clear, steadily increasing the proportion of clear until you get to pure clear. Of course, that only works if you're using compatible products (eg Tamiya TS spray and TS-13 clear).

Good luck!

bestest,

M.

Matt I think you are right on about this.I was using TS-13 and this happened every time  I did a silver car using using TS -17 Gloss Aluminum as a base. I tried the mixture and it worked much better. That  tip was recommended way by Bob Downie . I stopped using TS-13 and switched to Testors Wet Look Clear, it is definitely less hot than TS-13.

[mrm]

The part I really don't understand is the whole thinking behind this build. I was not trying to be a smart ass or put the OP's work down. But we have a modeler, who has spent a good $50 on a model, another $15 on two spray cans and then ran everything through an airbrush to have the wrong color on without much success (hence the thread title). While all this could be totally avoided by buying a $7 bottle of paint, which would have been a perfect color match, would have been ready for clear in about an hour and would have taken pretty much any clear you can throw at it. 

   If the OP was someone on a tight budget, that does not have an airbrush and experience and is trying to get the job done with spray cans, which the OP clearly is not, I would get it. But he claims to be a "perfectionist", who apparently does not take any critique lightly, who does not understand that part of "the technique" is using the right materials/tools. 

 So, again, with nothing but the best feelings towards the OP - save yourself the headache and buy yourself the right paint, airbrush it and let us admire your nice clean work, which you are obviously capable of. 

[Timonator]

 

 I'm thinking that like many modelers he is experimenting with what products are available. Everyone has a different way of painting and you have to experiment until you find a system that works for you and are comfortable with. 10 different modelers paint their cars 10 different ways. I  usually  use tamiya acrylic base with automotive urethane clear. 

[heptoman]

 

The part I really don't understand is the whole thinking behind this build. I was not trying to be a smart ass or put the OP's work down. But we have a modeler, who has spent a good $50 on a model, another $15 on two spray cans and then ran everything through an airbrush to have the wrong color on without much success (hence the thread title). While all this could be totally avoided by buying a $7 bottle of paint, which would have been a perfect color match, would have been ready for clear in about an hour and would have taken pretty much any clear you can throw at it. 

   If the OP was someone on a tight budget, that does not have an airbrush and experience and is trying to get the job done with spray cans, which the OP clearly is not, I would get it. But he claims to be a "perfectionist", who apparently does not take any critique lightly, who does not understand that part of "the technique" is using the right materials/tools. 

 So, again, with nothing but the best feelings towards the OP - save yourself the headache and buy yourself the right paint, airbrush it and let us admire your nice clean work, which you are obviously capable of. 

Did you read my post?  I specifically said I mixed X-11 and X-14 (and thinner) and it turned out nice.  Whether or not it's a perfect match to Azzurro Thetis is irrelevant.  I loved the color that came out, and that is not the issue.  I am trying to figure out what went wrong with the clear coat.

[mrm]

Did you read my post?  I specifically said I mixed X-11 and X-14 (and thinner) and it turned out nice.  Whether or not it's a perfect match to Azzurro Thetis is irrelevant.  I loved the color that came out, and that is not the issue.  I am trying to figure out what went wrong with the clear coat.

 

Let me try a different way of saying the same thing a little more directly.

You asked "what did I do wrong?"

And i am telling you. You used the wrong paint. 

First you mixed two colors that not meant to be mixed. Because they are unstable. In general I would not mix anything that is labeled chrome with anything. 

Then you cleared over your mix with a clear that is incompatible  with the paint underneath. 

On top of that apparently you did not wait long enough and applied the clear too wet. 

The solution to all these problems is a simple $7 jar of appropriate paint. It would have sprayed beautifully, it would have been ready for clear in about an hour and it would have handled the clear you sprayed without issue. This would have been true for no matter what color it was. But as a pleasant side effect you would have also had an exact match for any Lambo color you like. 

Now, the alternative way that would have allowed you to use your color mix, would have been using a polyurethane clear, since it is not a hot paint. But it is a PITA. 

[heptoman]

Okay everyone, here's an update.  I've started over, obviously, with the body paint.  Thanks to those of you who actually gave me some SOLUTIONS rather than just identifying PROBLEMS.

Since I decided to restart, it gave me an opportunity to get a paint closer to the original target of Azzurro Thetis, even though I did like my mixture I got.  I had to buy some touch up paint for my motorcycle and saw that the company I ordered from also sold Lambo paint (ColorRite and ExpressPaint - same parent company).  They didn't have Thetis, but they DID have Azzurio [sic on website] Aquarius, which is a TINY bit more silvery than Thetis.  Plus it's an actual color Lamborghini used for the Murcielago (Thetis is used for the Aventador).  Good enough for me.

So here's my process with my new choice:

Stripping/Primer:

1. Obviously I completely sanded down the old color and primer (this took the longest).
2. Primer, cure 24 hrs
3. Wet sand w/ 3600 then 4000 grit, dry 24 hrs
4. Primer, cure 24 hrs
5. Wet sand w/ 4000 then 6000 grit, dry 72 hrs
6. Primer, cure 24 hrs
7. Wet sand w/ 6000 grit, dry/cure at least three days, I think (it's been a while)

Paint:

1. Coat #1, dry 24 hrs
2. Wet sand w/4000 then 6000 grit, dry 72 hrs
3. Coat #2, dry 24 hrs
4. Wet sand w/ 6000 then 8000 grit, dry 72 hrs
5. Coat #3, dry 24 hrs
6. Wet sand w/ 8000 then 12000 grit
7. Planning to cure at least three days before progressing.

And that leads me to this (please forgive the bits of tape and sticky tack used to temporarily hold the model together):

 

 

 

 

As you can see I'm toying with which spoiler to use, and I didn't want to mess around with the door windows yet.

And here with flash:

There is a bit of sheen, but I would like it a bit shinier before I throw clear on it.  So my next question: is it ready for clear-coat?

Another shot because it's cool.  (The engine bay will get the "carbon fiber" paint scheme and the spoiler will be repainted to match as well).

Edited April 28, 2016 by heptoman

[Gt fan]

I just built the race version of this kit. When it comes to the doors look at the placement of the inserts for the doors. The directions are vague in the placement of the parts. I ended up putting in the part backwards and making new holes for the door pin to slide though. If done they do work great and look good

[Belugawrx]

I think the colour makes it look like a plastic model,...so ,..no, not ready for clear coat

[martinfan5]

Gunze Super Clear is hotter than Tamiya TS13 and I've also had it react badly with the underlying colour coats - although in my case these were Zero acrylics. 

I have three cans of it that I'm now scared to use.

Ive have not had any issues using Super Clear ,  I have used it over acrylics( I believe) , still interesting, and going to keep that mind.

[iamsuperdan]

I think the colour is just about perfect. And the big spoiler/wing is the way to go on this one.

Before laying down clear, I would do something about the panel gaps for the doors. Something looks off about them. The edges almost look a little rounded? Of course now that you're happy with the paint,  it may be too late to go back and fix that. 

So just do a wash or something on those panel lines and clear that thing!

 

[Gt fan]

Just wrap it in Scale motorsports decals

[Dann Tier]

Okay everyone, here's an update.  I've started over, obviously, with the body paint.  Thanks to those of you who actually gave me some SOLUTIONS rather than just identifying PROBLEMS.

Since I decided to restart, it gave me an opportunity to get a paint closer to the original target of Azzurro Thetis, even though I did like my mixture I got.  I had to buy some touch up paint for my motorcycle and saw that the company I ordered from also sold Lambo paint (ColorRite and ExpressPaint - same parent company).  They didn't have Thetis, but they DID have Azzurio [sic on website] Aquarius, which is a TINY bit more silvery than Thetis.  Plus it's an actual color Lamborghini used for the Murcielago (Thetis is used for the Aventador).  Good enough for me.

So here's my process with my new choice:

Stripping/Primer:

1. Obviously I completely sanded down the old color and primer (this took the longest).
2. Primer, cure 24 hrs
3. Wet sand w/ 3600 then 4000 grit, dry 24 hrs
4. Primer, cure 24 hrs
5. Wet sand w/ 4000 then 6000 grit, dry 72 hrs
6. Primer, cure 24 hrs
7. Wet sand w/ 6000 grit, dry/cure at least three days, I think (it's been a while)

Paint:

1. Coat #1, dry 24 hrs
2. Wet sand w/4000 then 6000 grit, dry 72 hrs
3. Coat #2, dry 24 hrs
4. Wet sand w/ 6000 then 8000 grit, dry 72 hrs
5. Coat #3, dry 24 hrs
6. Wet sand w/ 8000 then 12000 grit
7. Planning to cure at least three days before progressing.

And that leads me to this (please forgive the bits of tape and sticky tack used to temporarily hold the model together):

 

 

 

 

As you can see I'm toying with which spoiler to use, and I didn't want to mess around with the door windows yet.

And here with flash:

There is a bit of sheen, but I would like it a bit shinier before I throw clear on it.  So my next question: is it ready for clear-coat?

Another shot because it's cool.  (The engine bay will get the "carbon fiber" paint scheme and the spoiler will be repainted to match as well).

Love how its going!  Perfect colors!  -NEVER wrap a Lamborghini.

[heptoman]

I think the colour is just about perfect. And the big spoiler/wing is the way to go on this one.

Before laying down clear, I would do something about the panel gaps for the doors. Something looks off about them. The edges almost look a little rounded? Of course now that you're happy with the paint,  it may be too late to go back and fix that. 

So just do a wash or something on those panel lines and clear that thing!

 

Thanks, the doors are held on by tape so that created some of that irregular gap.  I'll double check it anyway.

 

-NEVER wrap a Lamborghini.

LOL

 

I think I'm going to do one more coat of the blue and try for a slightly more wet application.  I should have just enough paint left over.  More updates as they come.

[Gt fan]

That camo lambo is 3months of decal work and 2 1/2 sheets of decals. The only paint on the project is the dash top...the wheels and the cage . Mirrors and wing end plates are Tamiya bright green. I like the color of yours . I hope it all works out. Just watch the doors. There tricky