heptoman Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Hey everyone, so I've been quiet on the forums but I've been working nonetheless. Just haven't been paying attention to documenting progress. The GTO (Dad's present) is finally 98% finished and on display at the ranch. I just need to go fix some small things and add some details and update pics. It turned out pretty decent, I think. The Mustang is also finished, I'll probably get some pics tomorrow and update. ANYWAY, here's the latest project: Things have gone great so far, here are some progress pics: The instructions call for field grey as the interior. It's ghastly, more green than grey. So I made up my own color combo, the tried and true AS-27 from my 'stang, black, and the carbon fibre. I like it. Then, as usual with my projects, disaster struck. I'll save that for later. Bedtime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timonator Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 It looks like a cool build. Why you gotta leave us hangin ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Nice work so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Nice work so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CelticModeler Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Lol the anticipation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyboy Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 The one thing not shown is the body.....I am guessing there is an issue there.Too bad too, (if that is the issue) the rest is looking great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deathgoblin Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Working doors on the kit. I bet the A-pillars snapped. Those things have to be like spaghetti. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timonator Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Working doors on the kit. I bet the A-pillars snapped. Those things have to be like spaghetti.that would suck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deathgoblin Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 that would suck Most definitely. I hope it's just a paint issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heptoman Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 Hey guys, I'm sorry to leave you hanging. It's not something as bad as the a pillars snapping, but being a perfectionist, anything is a disaster, especially when I worked so hard on it. I promise I'll update this later this morning with the body issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heptoman Posted March 23, 2016 Author Share Posted March 23, 2016 Okay, here we go. I decided to paint the body Lamborghini Azzurro Thetis, a very beautiful silvery blue. To achieve this, I mixed a 1:1 ratio of Tamiya X-11 (Chrome Silver) and X-14 (Sky Blue) and it turned out very nice. I diluted it to 1:3 with Tamiya thinner for my airbrush. I was able to get a nice looking three base coats, wet sanding in between. I wish I had taken pictures before I clear-coated it! It was so great. It was more of a matte than gloss finish, but I was counting on the clear coat to bring out the shine, which has worked for me before. Anyway, I used Gunze Super Clear Gloss and came out with the most disappointing results (more disappointing than my BRZ from a couple years ago). Here are the pics: That's no play on the eyes. On the passenger side of the hood (bonnet) the paint is now uneven. Here's another angle. Side view. This is what everything else should look like: It happened on the back side as well. The lighter spots are not from flash or ambient light. So your assessment: what did I do wrong? Again - the base coats were even, wetsanded. I prepped well, let the bases cure for almost three days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFMgarage Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 hmmm...wetsand the BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timonator Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Wetsanding it wont fix that problem. It looks like the metallic has moved from either sanding or the first coat of clear was too heavy. I'm thinking strip it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFMgarage Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 Tim, what if he tapes off the unaffected areas and does a fine sanding on the effected areas only...then redoes the metallic there, then blend clear with the rest of the car once dry. I could be totally wrong but that's how I'd do a 1:1 haha... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timonator Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 That would be pretty meticulous but it may work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrm Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 I am sorry for the critique, but this is no azuro thetis, so I would just get the right color and respray it anyway. Also I have never seen a Lambo with the dash cut this way by two colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyboy Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 If you have a even clearcoat on it, just respray the color over it... no need to strip it.Dont despair.......Smooth surface is smooth surface whether it is clearcoat or bare plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heptoman Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 I am sorry for the critique, but this is no azuro thetis, so I would just get the right color and respray it anyway. Also I have never seen a Lambo with the dash cut this way by two colors. I've seen LOTS of cars on this forum that don't have stock interior coloring. Why is this any different? My model, my decision.I'm not asking for critique of paint color, I'm asking for critique of TECHNIQUE and SKILL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 I've had this happen a couple of times -- it's when the clear coat dissolves the base coat enough to free up the metallic flakes to move. so they cluster, and also don't have the random distribution of orientation that makes for a homogeneous "sparkle". There's not a lot you can do except respray. For future reference, you can either lay down more mist coats than usual, making sure each has dried before doing the next, so that when you get to the wet coat stage all that's immediately underneath the thicker layer of clear is more clear. Or you can can spray your base coat, and follow up with several coats of mixed base and clear, steadily increasing the proportion of clear until you get to pure clear. Of course, that only works if you're using compatible products (eg Tamiya TS spray and TS-13 clear).Good luck!bestest,M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heptoman Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 (edited) Matt, Kenny, Tim, Gergo, thanks for the comments, all helpful.Matt, yours makes the most sense. That's a lot of coats for the body, but I'm willing to try. I assume I would have to decant any TS spray in order to mix, and then feed through my airbrush? Woops, never mind, just saw X-22 on the Tamiya website! Edited March 24, 2016 by heptoman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Certainly with the Tamiya "hot" acrylics (TS and AS sprays) they go on shrinking and curing for several days after they appear to be touch dry. They recommend (or at least the expert painter who wrote the notes on the Tamiya USA site/blog does) that you don't need a "wet coat". Just keep laying down light coats (very light at first -- "spatter" coats, he calls them) and build up the density slowly. The early light coats stop the paint "drawing back" from around details and panel lines, which it is prone to do if it is too liquid. Even if it looks like the surface is slightly orange peeled when you finish painting, after a few days in a warm airing cupboard or a few hours in the food dryer, it will have disappeared as the paint shrinks back into one consolidated layer.bestest,M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danger Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 This paint effect can also happen when the colors are not completely mixed. The metallic particles will slowly settle in the airbrush cup/bottle. You have to keep mixing the paint to keep the particles fully suspended.Best to use a high speed mixer like the battery operated Badger Paint Mixer. Give it a good mix right before every coat.I've had this happen on one of my builds.Danger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peekay Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Gunze Super Clear is hotter than Tamiya TS13 and I've also had it react badly with the underlying colour coats - although in my case these were Zero acrylics. I have three cans of it that I'm now scared to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Blimey... if it messes with Zero basecoats, it must be powerful stuff indeed. Makes you wonder what it's intended to be used over!bestest,M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heptoman Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 This paint effect can also happen when the colors are not completely mixed. The metallic particles will slowly settle in the airbrush cup/bottle. You have to keep mixing the paint to keep the particles fully suspended. Best to use a high speed mixer like the battery operated Badger Paint Mixer. Give it a good mix right before every coat. I've had this happen on one of my builds. Danger Gunze Super Clear is hotter than Tamiya TS13 and I've also had it react badly with the underlying colour coats - although in my case these were Zero acrylics. I have three cans of it that I'm now scared to use. Blimey... if it messes with Zero basecoats, it must be powerful stuff indeed. Makes you wonder what it's intended to be used over! bestest, M. All good info! Guess I'll have to take this into consideration. Lesson learned - brand "loyalty." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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