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Posted

I'm most likely going to use the stock steering wheel but I'm also considering a vw one. I have an extra steering wheel and I know that some of the manxes had vw steering wheels.

Pictures of real Meyers Manxs.

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Posted

Many Manxes (and lots of their prolix copycats and competitors) were built on shoestring budgets (at least to get on the road), with the stock/donor VW's steering wheel, seats, shifter, wheels, and so forth. So there's almost no "wrong" way to build one of these models.

Posted (edited)

Thank you all. I've been working on the engine.

Not the best paint. I should've stripped the chrome before doing but I'm a newbie I'm learning. It looks better in person though. I'm however going to touch up the paint because of assembly issues.

I am also going to wire the distributer.

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Yes I learn't that lesson, 'strip the chrome before painting' I use (in the UK) a liquid oven cleaner. It doesn't damage the plastic, but use carefully, and well rinse the parts afterwards. I did paint some chrome parts on the Manx's I built (7), I used acrylic clear colours, red, orange (rear light lens paints) and blue. It gives a beautiful coloured shine. 

 

Edited by PatW
Posted

 

It looks like you painted the underpart of the body black. Most real-world Manxes I've seen seem to have been this way, but I've seen many, many models built here and elsewhere where the builder didn't do this, so, good catch.

When I started my Manx I did a big Google image search for ideas.  I saw some with the lower body still in the same color as the top, but more of a rough dull finish.  I was going to do mine that way.  There were also body color panels, some with scoops and such, that went over this area as well.

Posted

It should be noted that the top two photos of Manx's dashes posted above are of the Monocque Manx's, only the first 12 cars were built that way. Notice the fiberglass floors, these cars didn't use a VW pan.

Posted

Yeah Craig. I think those first 12 cars looked better especially because of the front hood.

some examples, these are 4 of the first 12:

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Posted

When I started my Manx I did a big Google image search for ideas.  I saw some with the lower body still in the same color as the top, but more of a rough dull finish.  I was going to do mine that way.  There were also body color panels, some with scoops and such, that went over this area as well.

Yup, my observations--both google-image and contemporary magazines such as R&C--match yours exactly. The black treatment just seemed to be the most common--but by no means the only treatment.

Posted

It would be cool if somebody modified the AMT Manx kit to make it look like the first Meyers Manx from 1964, Old Red.

I wonder how hard it would be to modify or scratchbuild the front hood and the chassis. I'm sure you can use the Tamiya 1966 vw 1300 as a downer kit for the interior, wheels, turn signals, and engine.

Here are pics of the real car:

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Sorry no posts in a while. I've been working on my other build. Anyways, I finished the chassis of the Manx. It was very easy to put together accept the rear shocks. The body fits fine and I decided to add the roll bar to give it a more beach buggy look.

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Posted

I do have a question however. I need help with the front seats. I want to make them two tone with the center part of the seats a different color in between the piping. It is really hard to mask it off because the seats are flat on the top and base but curves sideways on the center. The tape wants to move, wrinkle, or if a press it rips and is uneven. Can somebody help??

The seat I have right now:

the affect I want that is shown on this kit (look at the two tone seats):

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Posted

I would paint the centers of the seats first, then mask-off the centers to paint the outsides of the seats. Tamiya masking tape is flexible, and when burnished-down, sticks VERY well without bleedthrough.

Posted

I do have a question however. I need help with the front seats. I want to make them two tone with the center part of the seats a different color in between the piping. It is really hard to mask it off because the seats are flat on the top and base but curves sideways on the center. The tape wants to move, wrinkle, or if a press it rips and is uneven. Can somebody help??

The seat I have right now:

the affect I want that is shown on this kit (look at the two tone seats):

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By the way, you're doing a great job!, makes me wanna finish the one I have started!

Posted

Tyler, that blue mono Manx you posted belongs to a friend of mine, it's number 7 of 12 if I remember right. Here's a photo of it and my Manx II last June parked in front of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.

manx at r&r hall of fame.jpg

Posted

Paint seat white (or leave the white plastic bare if you want). Cut THIN strips of masking tape with straightedge and Xacto. Use these to mask the border of your area, then fill in the center with wider strips of tape. Paint the black. Remove tape. Admire your work.

Elsewhere: You seem to have mastered painting and wiring/detailing already. Remind me to teach you how to remove parting lines and ejector pin marks sometime. B)

Posted (edited)

Having built 6 or 7 of these Manxes I've seen a few methods of masking, one was using what we have in the UK called Blu-Tack, it's a putty that kids use to stick posters to the bedroom wall. It's easy to mold round things and once the paint has dried just peel it off. At least you can stop bleed through. For my 4X4 Manx I bought a Jimmy Flintstone resin body with windsheild and scratchbuilt the chassis from plasticard. If your using a Beetle kit you have to shorten the chassis pan as they do with 1:1 kits.

Edited by PatW
Posted

I started painting the manx's tires into white walls. I think they would look good with chrome rims. I still need to paint the rear tires.

i used a circle template to mask.

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Posted

   Those tires look great! To give you an idea of

how that can work on a Manx I have one I'm

doing with painted wide whites also.

     David S.

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