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All the rest part 2?


Agent G

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Wayne, excellent work, as usual.

I have finally made my choice for my initial contributions to the CB.

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(Please let me know if the photo doesn't show up.)

I want to try to work on both kits at the same time.

Edited by Danny Lectro
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Here's  what I'm starting with, the box, parts already cleaned in Simple Green, sub-assemblies I'm gonna put in Simple Green, and what's left on the sprues. This is an older kit, and doesn't use poly cap bushings. 

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Now this is interesting!

G

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I got the entire morning to myself and made some progress. 

I built the storage box for the engine deck. All the tools, various breakables, MG mounts and what nots were shipped with the tank. It all went into some form of box strapped on the rear.

Not the clearest of photos, but you get the idea.

 

I took thin basswood sheet and cut pieces of coffee stir sticks to replicate what I saw. 

A pallet courtesy of Starbucks.

Basswood from Hobby Lobby.

My earlier experiment with shirt tissue failed miserably. I found something a bit sturdier.

White glue, water and some Vallejo acrylic put me here. Notice I've adjusted the pallet for fit.

Thin styrene strip, another slice of basswood and I have metal banding. 

This is not affixed to the tank as yet. I have a set of Archer dry transfers enroute. It will be easier to apply the marking without this in place.

G

 

 

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Archer transfers arrived.

Broke this out.

Than I added some of the chalked on markings. Tracks were mounted as well.

Today I took out the trusty Badger Renegade Velocity. I used some Tamiya "NATO Black" with a drop of clear gloss to replicate the sealant workers sprayed on all the seams.

One more strip of styrene used as steel banding.

 

Glamor shots tomorrow. Next I'll start the base.

 

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Thanks Ray!

Well, she can't ship out until she's transported to the appropriate port. The only real way to that is by railroad. I didn't want to build an entire  1/35th scale flatcar, I just wanted to give the impression she's on one. Besides the tank is the focal point, the display just reinforces the idea. 

A few coffee stirrers, basswood shapes, glue and an hour of work got me here.  

I sort of eyeballed the flatcar deck from rough measurements of the tank and several photos found online.

Using some styrene strips cut from a "For Sale" sign, 90* angle and a bit of sprue got me here.

They fit together. This will help in the painting/weathering process as each piece is requires it's own methods.

The aforementioned stir sticks laminate quite nicely. When cut with a razor saw and a miter box I made passable track chocks.

Mock ups.

G

 

 

 

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Wayne, once again, excellent work on your tank.

I am slowly getting into it on my First Order TIE Fighter.

The cockpit controls and seat have been painted silver, as per photos of a completed model in the kit's manual.

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These will be detailed with decals and washes, and I will probably paint the "cushions" of the seat flat black.

I am using Ammo of Mig Jimenez paints on this build.  I discovered these paints don't adhere well to Bandai's plastic, so i am also using Testors Super Fine Lacquer primer underneath most of the color coats.  The parts below will be red on the final model, I am attempting to do some pre-shading with Ammo of Mig medium gunship gray between the Testors primer and the final color of Ammo of Mig red.

{img]https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/13925937_10208036335804269_2361644641269332354_o.jpg

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This is my first time attempting pre-shading, and I can tell it went wrong.  I'm not sure yet if I will bother stripping the Ammo of Mig paint with Windex and give it another go, or just stick with what I have.

Edited by Danny Lectro
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I have found that most acrylics like MiG, Vallejo and some MM Acryls have a tendency to lift from bare plastic. 

Danny there is no right or wrong with pre shading. When attempting detail work, he best course of action with any acrylic is thin it and lower the air pressure. 

I'm fascinated by this kit as well.

G

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I have found that most acrylics like MiG, Vallejo and some MM Acryls have a tendency to lift from bare plastic. 

Danny there is no right or wrong with pre shading. When attempting detail work, he best course of action with any acrylic is thin it and lower the air pressure. 

I'm fascinated by this kit as well.

G

I did thin it, and I did lower the air pressure. I'm using an Aztek airbrush, as it has always worked for me in the past, but it doesn't handle fine line work very well in single action mode, and I have never gotten the hang of using it in double action mode. There was also a bit of clumsiness involved on my part, LOL.

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Sounds like you are doing everything right but the darn AB isn't cooperating.
 

Like I said, there was some clumsiness involved on my part.  I think it may have been a mistake to make my first attempt at the technique on something so small.

In any case, my red color coat went wrong, and I need to strip the acrylics off and try again.

 

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Well, at least it's acrylic. That's a whole lot easier to strip.

I've got one panzer that's sat in a tub of Windex and water twice now. Windex eats Tamiya acrylic clean off.

I repainted it for the third and put it away for a bit.  

 G

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Moving right along. I added some detail using 2mm wide strip and some 1.5mm rod.

That's Krylon Gray Primer.

I'm very pleased with how the deck turned out. 

That's simply one brushed on coat of Testors "CreateFX" enamel stain. The color is called "Driftwood". 

Airbrushed some color. I want it to better represent the Army's flatcars. I went with Tamiya XF-73 to add contrast between the OD tank and the OD flatcar. 

Weathering and markings to come.

G

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Final mock up.

To prevent silvering, I applied the decals in a puddle of Future, Then I brushed a layer of Future over the top. When that cured for 2-3 days I flat coated the entire thing with MM Acryl clear flat.

I sprayed a Krylon semi gloss finish on the wood base. Final assembly tonight. 

G

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