'32 Ford Sedan Delivery - 80's Smoothie Billet Rod

[Spex84]

Yep, can't have false info floating around on the internet where anyone could read it! I will replace it with a more accurate and relevant quote:

"Nobody builds 'em like Dennis Lacy"--Mahatma Gandhi

[Bernard Kron]

While the colors and details are suitably New-School. the stance and proportions reveal the builder - traditional all the way. So, after you've grown tired of showing it at the local rod runs and answering countless questions about your "updating" plans, it will backdate nicely... Terrific work throughout in a style that's rarely done to this level these days.

[Bernard Kron]

Yep, can't have false info floating around on the internet where anyone could read it! I will replace it with a more accurate and relevant quote:

"Nobody builds 'em like Dennis Lacy"--Mahatma Gandhi

Yep, Mahatma said exactly that. I know, I was there with my spinning wheel!

[Lovefordgalaxie]

While the colors and details are suitably New-School. the stance and proportions reveal the builder - traditional all the way. So, after you've grown tired of showing it at the local rod runs and answering countless questions about your "updating" plans, it will backdate nicely... Terrific work throughout in a style that's rarely done to this level these days.

Agreed!!

[DumpyDan]

This is a cool idea, all these memories are flowing back from the 80's looking at you project.  Gonna be watching

[Dennis Lacy]

Yep, can't have false info floating around on the internet where anyone could read it! I will replace it with a more accurate and relevant quote:

"Nobody builds 'em like Dennis Lacy"--Mahatma Gandhi

Yep, Mahatma said exactly that. I know, I was there with my spinning wheel!

You guys are ridiculous. It might be a good thing nobody builds 'em like me! 

[Dennis Lacy]

This is a cool idea, all these memories are flowing back from the 80's looking at you project.  Gonna be watching

If it's bringing back memories now just wait until the obnoxious color scheme hits it!

[GTJUNIOR]

Looks like a cool build so far. I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out. 

[squirrel886]

We all know that no matter the era or style, if Dennis builds it, it'll be built right. 

[Dennis Lacy]

This past weekend I spent just a short time at the bench. Being it was the Wife's birthday I felt it politically correct not to hole up in the garage for hours. I'm not that stupid!

I've been thinking a lot of what else I wanted to do to this thing. One of the other mods that got really popular with this era of car was the removal of the front and rear frame horns (and therefor the gas tank, too.) I sat there with my razor saw in one hand and the frame in the other for about 5 minutes. I reasoned that if I was that unsure about circumcising the frame then it was probably the right move to make. Following that I found some neat little shock brackets in my parts that I think might be from AMT's '41 Woody street rod. Before running out of time I managed to half scratch build one of the shocks. I wasn't gonna take pictures until they were both made but I was out in the g'rage taking pictures of my 3-Window project already so I snapped a couple just for the heck of it.

Hosted on Fotki

Hosted on Fotki

Whether I like it or not, too late now!

Opinions???

[GTJUNIOR]

I think it looks great. Gives the front end a nice clean look.

[Spex84]

Looks good to me...stylized, kinda chunky and billet-like. So, perfect.

[Mr. Metallic]

Rectangular headlights maybe?

[Dennis Lacy]

Rectangular headlights maybe?

Oh man, if I only had some! 

 

 

[Foxer]

I really like your body ... that chop is magnificent in how it blends in. I was studying your cuts and is interesting how you cut the A and B posts. Did you add to the roof length? A photo showing the top cuts would be cool if they show.

[Dennis Lacy]

I really like your body ... that chop is magnificent in how it blends in. I was studying your cuts and is interesting how you cut the A and B posts. Did you add to the roof length? A photo showing the top cuts would be cool if they show.

As luck would have it, I used the top chop on this body as a how-to for another forum. Ask and ye shall receive! 

In no way am I implying this is the only way, it's just how I do it. Hopefully this can answer some questions for those contemplating a roof whack on a '32 Ford. So follow along then get your own Sawzall out and start cuttin'!

1. Decide how much choppin' you want to do and mark your cut lines. I use a fine tip Sharpie. For this model I chose 3/16 inch which is about like 4.5 inches on a full scale '32. As you can see, the cut lines at the rear of the body will have a step between the side windows and the rear window. (The vertical lines just inside of the body corner are drawn along existing mold seams.) This is necessary because drawing two continuous horizontal lines will not bisect both the side windows and the rear windows at their optimal location. The side windows must be done such that when the roof comes down the rear edges of the window opening line up correctly.

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2. For the A-pillar (windshield post) another staggered cut will be required. The door opening panel line will serve as a dividing line. Put a pen mark from the door line-rearward just under the raised drip molding. Measure down double the amount you're chopping (in this case 3/16" x 2 or 3/8" total) and mark another line from the door line-forward. Lastly, measure and mark a center line between the upper and lower lines and draw it completely across the A pillar. Once the lines are correctly layed out, use the back edge of a sharp #11 blade and scribe along the door line the distance between the upper and lower lines until you make a complete vertical cut.

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3. Using the back of your #11 blade again, scribe along the two vertical lines on the back of the body until they are both cut through spanning the distance of the upper most and lower most cut lines. Hold a steel straight edge along the lines to guide the blade at first. Once the lines start to get a little depth you can remove the straight edge and the blade will follow the lines.

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4. Using your razor saw of choice, now cut out the two sections of material at the back of the body. I cut on the lines.

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5. At the A pillar, cut completely through the pillar on the center line. Then remove the two remaining sections of material, one above the center line, the other below.

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6. Remove the remaining sections of material on the B (center pillars.) Clean up any flash along the cut edges while being careful not to remove any additional material from the faces of the cuts. Taking care to line up all of the sections as best as possible, glue the roof back down using your favorite glue. I use Zap-A-Gap.

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7. If any gaps occur where the two body halves join (like the lower most rear cut lines and the vertical #11 blade cut lines in the following photo) simply fill those areas with scrap pieces of plastic trimmed to the appropriate size and shape. DO NOT leave gaps like this to fill with putty later. You want to do as much work in plastic as possible so that a year after you paint the model the seams don't reappear when the putty shrinks.

Hosted on Fotki

Hosted on Fotki

8. Once the glue has been given thorough time to gestate (I give Zap-A-Gap an our or two) you can now start sanding the seams smooth. Use a small, pointed hobby file to carefully smooth the seams in the window openings and other stepped reveal lines. use the back of a #11 blade to scribe the glue build up out of the door panel lines, making them continuous again. If care was taken to line up the two body halves the seams should become seamless and require very little putty filler during paint prep.

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Take a look at this side view. Notice that no additional material has been added to stretch the roof to make the A pillars line up! This is the whole reason for the staggered A pillar cuts. The staggered cuts allow the two thin A pillar halves to be manipulated into lining up with light pressure and cohersion. There are several benefits to not stretching the roof. One is that the molded soft insert detail is not disturbed if you would like to leave it intact. Second, it's a heck of a lot less work without having to clean up more seams than necessary. Third is that the staggered joint at the A pillar is WAY stronger than a simple straight butt joint would be because your are gluing along more surface area. Fourth, any load placed on the pillar while handling or sanding is spread out over a greater area greatly reducing the risk of breaking the seam. (The same goes for the staggered rear seam.)

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Edited June 8, 2016 by Dennis Lacy

[mike 51]

Great how to!  I'm surprized you didn't have to lengthen the top  or slant the a pillars...looks great!   

Too bad this isn't gonna be more of a traditional car.....

[Spex84]

Awesome. Cool to see this top chop tutorial again, it produces an excellent result.

I had the thought that rectangular headlights would be cool, too...would it be much work to make some? Maybe out of an 80s Chevy glue bomb, or the rectangular "granny glasses" from the Tom Daniel Pie Wagon?

My recent 25T build had rectangular headlights fabricated from aluminum square tube, clear styrene, and a couple other bits and bobs. Maybe not quite suited to this build though.

Have you considered scribing the body to represent pop-out/hidden headlights? They were the shizzle back in the 80s and 90s.

[Dennis Lacy]

Great how to!  I'm surprized you didn't have to lengthen the top  or slant the a pillars...looks great!   

Too bad this isn't gonna be more of a traditional car.....

That's the beauty of doing the A-pillar cuts this way. It allows the two narrow pieces of pillar to be manipulated enough (with finger pressure) to realign without additional cuts or messing with the length of the roof.

Awesome. Cool to see this top chop tutorial again, it produces an excellent result.

I had the thought that rectangular headlights would be cool, too...would it be much work to make some? Maybe out of an 80s Chevy glue bomb, or the rectangular "granny glasses" from the Tom Daniel Pie Wagon?

My recent 25T build had rectangular headlights fabricated from aluminum square tube, clear styrene, and a couple other bits and bobs. Maybe not quite suited to this build though.

Have you considered scribing the body to represent pop-out/hidden headlights? They were the shizzle back in the 80s and 90s.

I did think about scribing "pop out" light doors but where I put the hood scoops doesn't leave a good place to do that (IMO.) I'll give some more thought to rectangular lights, though. There must be a good way...

[maltsr]

Terrific tutorial, thanks Dennis

[Intmd8r]

Thanks for the tips on how to chop this body.  I was mentally preparing myself to do something similar on a future build.  THIS will save me a lot of time.

Great progress so far - can't wait to see the final product!

[Foxer]

Thanks for showing that ... in more detail than I ever expected when I asked! Everything you said about the staggered pillar cuts makes sense. This will be in my mind on every top chop from here forward.

[Spex84]

I was digging the 5-spoke mags out of AMT's '68 Shelby gt500 kit this evening when I noticed the separate rectangular fog lights. They're chrome parts, but could probably look decent as headlights with some clear coats on the lens area...slightly rounded corners, and a little chrome rectangle in the center. The surround is flat, rather than hooded, so not quite accurate to the real thing: