Next up in the paint booth

[JerseeJerry55]

My GS project is coming along nicely. Next up is my 1969 Camaro SS I am building for my 16 year old. Washed the parts and shot the primer. Second car model in progress in 30 years so I will attempt to do a black vinyl roof. Other members such as Harry P and Ace have given some direction on how to attempt it so here I go. Hope I can do it.

[JerseeJerry55]

My GS project is coming along nicely. Next up is my 1969 Camaro SS I am building for my 16 year old. Washed the parts and shot the primer. Second car model in progress in 30 years so I will attempt to do a black vinyl roof. Other members such as Harry P and Ace have given some direction on how to attempt it so here I go. Hope I can do it.

Are the following pictures of mold lines ?

[mikemodeler]

I would highly recommend going over those quarter panels and removing the mold lines and check the rest of the car for any additional mold lines. Best of luck on the vinyl top!

 

[1972coronet]

Yes , those are "mould lines" or "separation lines" or "casting lines"  . Dress 'em down with an emery board .

[JerseeJerry55]

Think it came out okay for my 1st attempt at a vinyl top. Needs to be touched up but otherwise I gues I'm okay with it.

[Intmd8r]

I like where this is going

[JerseeJerry55]

I like where this is going

Thanks. I'm thinking Bare Metal Foil for the bottom of the vinyl but never used it. Do they make it that thin? Is it hard to use?

Edited June 10, 2016 by JerseeJerry55

[Intmd8r]

BMF is extremely thin & easy to cut into strips. I would suggest reading/watching some tutorials so you know the ins and outs.

It will dull knives and scissors quickly-it is metal material.

The best way to get familiar with the stuff is to buy some an try it out. 

[MrObsessive]

I strongly advise practicing on a junk body or something since BMF is new to you Jerry. BMF really brings out the realism for models, but it can be a challenge for newbies, and I advise using a new Exacto blade strictly for use with BMF, as it works best with new blades.

If the blade is the slightest bit dull, it'll tear the foil and can make a mess on the body.

Hope this helps!

Edited June 10, 2016 by MrObsessive

[MrObsessive]

I jumped over to YouTube and found this tutorial on BMF by Dr. Cranky who posts here occasionally.

I think you'll like it!

 

[JerseeJerry55]

So here is the body after final roof touch ups. I think not so bad for my first time attempting this style of roof. I think when I attempt my next one I will have a better grasp how to properly tape the roof so it appears more uniform. I am generally my own toughest critic. Thanks for looking.

[JerseeJerry55]

Not wanting to try Bare Metal Foil yet I did the trim with a silver sharpie. Came out okay I guess.

[MrObsessive]

Just a couple observations Jerry.......Most if not all vinyl roofs have some kind of overlapping seams somewhere on the roof of the vehicle running front to back. This can be duplicated with some .010 Evergreen strip that can be sanded down on the one side where the two pieces overlap. I hadn't noticed it before you painted the roof, so it might be a little late to add that. An internet search for the '69's would turn up a few pics on how it looks for this car.

Particular for this car is the "halo" vinyl roof trim that it has.........kinda tricky to get the chrome done on it! 

Also, in the case of the chrome trim, a Sharpie is OK as far as it goes, but I might have still used some masking tape (generic or Tamiya tape) to try and keep as close to the original trim as possible. 

Just the same, you're still new at this and something to keep in mind for your next WIP.

Edited June 11, 2016 by MrObsessive

[JerseeJerry55]

 

 

Just a couple observations Jerry.......Most if not all vinyl roofs have some kind of overlapping seams somewhere on the roof of the vehicle running front to back. This can be duplicated with some .010 Evergreen strip that can be sanded down on the one side where the two pieces overlap. I hadn't noticed it before you painted the roof, so it might be a little late to add that. An internet search for the '69's would turn up a few pics on how it looks for this car.

Particular for this car is the "halo" vinyl roof trim that it has.........kinda tricky to get the chrome done on it! 

Also, in the case of the chrome trim, a Sharpie is OK as far as it goes, but I might have still used some masking tape (generic or Tamiya tape) to try and keep as close to the original trim as possible. 

Just the same, you're still new at this and something to keep in mind for your next WIP.

If I wanted to go back to a hardtop and ditch the vinyl roof can I sand her roof down and just reshoot her roof and areas that I made vinyl or just leave it as is ? Just let me know when you have the chance. Thanks.

Jerry

Edited June 12, 2016 by JerseeJerry55

[MrObsessive]

If I wanted to go back to a hardtop and ditch the vinyl roof can I sand her roof down and just reshoot her roof and areas that I made vinyl or just leave it as is ? Just let me know when you have the chance. Thanks.

Jerry

That's a tough call Jerry as ultimately it's your model. If it were me, and I wasn't happy with how a paint job came out, I'd strip everything down to bare plastic and start over-----but that's just me. It's one of the reasons I don't buy hobby paints per se for body colors. I do mess up from time to time, and nothing's more frustrating than botching up a paint job, then much to your chagrin you've run out of paint!

I have mine mixed locally at a automotive paint shop, and there's more than enough for me to use for those times when things don't go right. Sanding it down might be more troublesome than not.........you'd have to deal with the overlaying paint playing nice with whatever paint's on the surface, and then there's the matter of paint consistency. Is the surface the same type as the rest of the car? 

Those will be your call to make..............

BTW, I found a pic of the type of vinyl roof that you're trying to make for '69 Camaros. Every '69 I've ever seen with the factory vinyl roof treatment had the "halo" type that was offered, although there might be a few rare ones with the standard type vinyl roof.

GM also offered this on a couple other models (Olds Toronado comes to mind), and they were a very nice touch to a 1:1 car.

As I mentioned, you can see where the seams are as well for the roof, and you'd also have to make the chrome trim that separates the vinyl roof paint work, As I mentioned some .010 x .020 Evergreen plastic strip would be ideal to make this.

HTH!

 

[JerseeJerry55]

That's a tough call Jerry as ultimately it's your model. If it were me, and I wasn't happy with how a paint job came out, I'd strip everything down to bare plastic and start over-----but that's just me. It's one of the reasons I don't buy hobby paints per se for body colors. I do mess up from time to time, and nothing's more frustrating than botching up a paint job, then much to your chagrin you've run out of paint!

I have mine mixed locally at a automotive paint shop, and there's more than enough for me to use for those times when things don't go right. Sanding it down might be more troublesome than not.........you'd have to deal with the overlaying paint playing nice with whatever paint's on the surface, and then there's the matter of paint consistency. Is the surface the same type as the rest of the car? 

Those will be your call to make..............

BTW, I found a pic of the type of vinyl roof that you're trying to make for '69 Camaros. Every '69 I've ever seen with the factory vinyl roof treatment had the "halo" type that was offered, although there might be a few rare ones with the standard type vinyl roof.

GM also offered this on a couple other models (Olds Toronado comes to mind), and they were a very nice touch to a 1:1 car.

As I mentioned, you can see where the seams are as well for the roof, and you'd also have to make the chrome trim that separates the vinyl roof paint work, As I mentioned some .010 x .020 Evergreen plastic strip would be ideal to make this.

HTH!

 

Thanks if I were to strip her down I assume the Simple Green method is what I'd use? However two questions (see concerns) are:

1) If I were to use Simple Green would the automotive primer I used be an issue?

2) If i can use SG does it compromise/weaken the plastic?

Thanks

Jerry

[MrObsessive]

I'm not that familiar with Simple Green as I use Easy Off Oven Cleaner (Yellow Can) to strip any paint jobs. Others here who might have used it can give you a better answer, but I can tell you whatever stripper you use, it's going to take the paint clean down to the plastic. I don't remember what primer you used, but it didn't etch the plastic and any stripper should take it off.

I've not heard of Simple Green weakening the plastic (perhaps resin yes), but once again others would know more than I.

[JerseeJerry55]

I'm not that familiar with Simple Green as I use Easy Off Oven Cleaner (Yellow Can) to strip any paint jobs. Others here who might have used it can give you a better answer, but I can tell you whatever stripper you use, it's going to take the paint clean down to the plastic. I don't remember what primer you used, but it didn't etch the plastic and any stripper should take it off.

I've not heard of Simple Green weakening the plastic (perhaps resin yes), but once again others would know more than I.

Good morning. I used Duplicolor Sandable primer. If I go the Easy Off route how do I do it. If you could provide the steps I'd surely appreciate it. Thanks.

Jerry

[MrObsessive]

For Easy Off, simply spray it on and let it do its thing!  Duplicolor should come off with no problem.

If you have any kind of plastic tub with a lid that would be good as the fumes can be a bit obnoxious. I usually let it sit overnight and by the next day, in the sink I'll scrub up the body with a toothbrush under running water, and the paint goes right with it.

I strongly advise however using rubber gloves as Easy Off can be not so kind to your hands!

Hope this helps!

Edit: BTW, if you use Easy Off, be sure to use the yellow can and not that "Fume Free" stuff. I've tried that in the past and it's absolutely worthless!

Edited June 12, 2016 by MrObsessive

[JerseeJerry55]

For Easy Off, simply spray it on and let it do its thing!  Duplicolor should come off with no problem.

If you have any kind of plastic tub with a lid that would be good as the fumes can be a bit obnoxious. I usually let it sit overnight and by the next day, in the sink I'll scrub up the body with a toothbrush under running water, and the paint goes right with it.

I strongly advise however using rubber gloves as Easy Off can be not so kind to your hands!

Hope this helps!

Edit: BTW, if you use Easy Off, be sure to use the yellow can and not that "Fume Free" stuff. I've tried that in the past and it's absolutely worthless!

Bill

Got it. Thanks wish me luck

Jerry

[JerseeJerry55]

For Easy Off, simply spray it on and let it do its thing!  Duplicolor should come off with no problem.

If you have any kind of plastic tub with a lid that would be good as the fumes can be a bit obnoxious. I usually let it sit overnight and by the next day, in the sink I'll scrub up the body with a toothbrush under running water, and the paint goes right with it.

I strongly advise however using rubber gloves as Easy Off can be not so kind to your hands!

Hope this helps!

Edit: BTW, if you use Easy Off, be sure to use the yellow can and not that "Fume Free" stuff. I've tried that in the past and it's absolutely worthless!

Bill quick question just sprayed the car with the EO. When you clean it under running water does it leave a residue that I have to clean using soapy water on like when I started the project?

Jerry

[Modlbldr]

You will want to wash it with soapy water and a toothbrush before you respray. 

Later- 

[JerseeJerry55]

Back to square one. Primed and ready for reshooting. My son Justin wants her in purple. Any purple suggestions?

[metalhead]

If you find that you have to strip paint again, might i recommend brake fluid? Dot 3 works extremely well. I recently had to strip a body. I left it soaking in purple power for over a month. Nothing. I soaked the body in brake fluid for three hours and the paint just bubbled up and slid right off. After soaking, run it under water and scrub with a fairly stiff brush. Wash with soap and water. Easy peasy lemon squeezy!

[Mahogany Rush]

I am doing my car in Spaz Stix Candy Purple Dynamite. Great looking color although I have not painted mine yet to show you. Using the correct backer paint for it will determine effect. I tried the black backer first, but way too dark for me. White primer backer allowed it to be a great purple, but not dark enough for my project. I have ordered the Silver Metallic Backer for mine as I have read that is the one that shows the best candy effect and should be just about the right shade in the end. Good luck.