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Posted

Hey

How do you protect your 2k clear from dust until its hardened? (about 1-2 hours) (i use gravity colors 2k)

I put a box on it, but it still get dust when i take it out 

So help me please 

Posted

It's nearly impossible (at least for me) to prevent 100% of dust in any paint job. That's why you have to learn to sand/polish flaws out.

Posted

Would using a Tupperware type container with the lid on it be a bad thing to do?

That was my first thought when I saw the question here, but I am not sure if having the part in a sealed container is a good idea with fresh paint.

Russ

Posted

Before up-ending a container of any kind over wet paint, be sure to wipe it with a damp rag, else dust will fall off the bottom of the container right on to your model.  

Posted

I just set my model that's on the paint stand on a shelf, and have had no problems. Of course you could have a "clean room" built with HEPA filters, wear a clean suit complete with mask and gloves and hope that no dust gets on your model.

Posted

Of course you could have a "clean room" built with HEPA filters, wear a clean suit complete with mask and gloves and hope that no dust gets on your model.

But then of course the Irony Gods would just knock it off the shelf, or have your cat attack it after you take it out of the Clean Room. It's just the Way of the Universe. B):lol:

Posted

A very clean dust free area for painting is a must and some type of cover as it gasses out will help. In addition to pets and other natural disasters be sure that the clothing you are wearing does not create static electricity that will attract dust no matter how clean the area is.   

Posted (edited)

I think BTD's original suggestion was misinterpreted. I think he means to leave the model on a flat surface, then place the Tupperware bowl part over it as a cover -- not to place it inside a sealed container.

Edited by sjordan2
Posted

I've been painting 1:1 vehicles for 50+ years, and I don't understand why your clear is still tacky for so long (you say "1-2 hours").

It's common in the real world for a 2-component urethane clear to be "dust free" (no longer tacky on the surface, so that any dust that falls on it is easily removed) in 10 minutes or so.

If you're using the "one use" 2-part clear, are you certain you're getting ALL the hardener out of the little bottle and into the big one? Too little hardener could conceivably slow the dry time.

I'd be careful about using a sealed container for drying, too. It COULD inhibit initial evaporation of the carrier solvents and lead to solvent-popping as the clear cures.

To inhibit dust getting in your paint, all you really need is a clean flat thing to put the just-painted model under, in a draft-free area. Dust normally settles on horizontal surfaces, or gets blown on to other areas. Having a simple clean cardboard plank to put the model under will eliminate the former, and insuring you're in a draft-free environment will eliminate the latter.

 

Posted

I use thw "multi-use" gravity colors so its need to mixed a little every  time in ratio of 3:1:1(gloss clear, thinner, hardener)  and the guy from gravity colors say its dust free over 2 hours (never checked it) 

I put a box over it(its has some holes on the bottom, its ok?) ans i still have dust(when i sprayed 1k clear(ts13) i put it on my show cabinet and it's was fine

Posted (edited)

I paint in my garage. To eliminate dust I have a metal spray booth  But I dont use the fan. It's just a box for me. But first and foremost take a windex bottle, fill with water or 50/50 mix or what have you. Completely spray your work area. Spray the air, the ground, and inside your box. Anywhere you could see yourself kicking up dust. Even your sleeves. The point is to trap any dust that could fall on the car body.

Secondly if you have an air compressor. Wash your car body before painting and set your airbrush to a high psi to blow the water off. Make sure the water is all gone. Then paint immediately. When you finish painting let it cure enough to at least get some initial orange peel. If you move the body right after spraying you aren't helping yourseIf. Ive done this for about 2 years now and I've eliminated most dust issues. I still get a hair occasionally but this works 95% of the time.

Edited by DiscoRover007
Posted

Spray the air, the ground, and inside your box. Anywhere you could see yourself kicking up dust. Even your sleeves. The point is to trap any dust that could fall on the car body.

 

You just reminded me, several years ago I got in the habit of spray painting wearing only shorts. Nothing else. The original idea was to reduce dust/lint, but I came to realize that if I wasn't comfortable in my basement in Just Shorts for 10 or 15 or 20 minutes--if I was too cold, or too hot, or too sweaty, or whatever--it just wasn't a good painting day.

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