5th restoration- rebodied Duesenberg

[landman]

A thought here:   The bottom of the rumble seat interior is what appears to be holding the rear of the body too high, some file work there should cure that so that the body shell sits down evenly from front to rear.  As for mating the rear fenders to the body--some Evergreen sheet styrene ought to do that for you.

Art

I think if I cut off the Duesy floorpan right behind the splash aprons, I'll lose just the right amount of height, unless it rests on something more forward. But that looks like it is the culprit.

[landman]

I cut the back floorpan and the back sets right but the front is too narrow for the splash aprons. So I cut them off and will make new ones. Wish me luck.

Edited December 25, 2020 by landman

[misterNNL]

Very ambitious conversion.Good luck.

[Art Anderson]

Pat, you might consider doing what any coachbuilding firm (even a competent body shop) of that era of wood-framed metal skinned coach built car bodies did: They changed the cowling (firewall back to the A-pillars)  to match the hood contours--this was done numerous times when Duesenberg owners (generally 2nd or 3rd owners of used but very serviceable Model J's for example).  There are numerous photo's of such conversions (more in the books I have than online) clearly showing this.

One compelling reason this got done when moving a coachbuilt body from some other make to a Duesenberg J chassis was simply due to the fact that with the Model J, the firewall was a cast aluminum piece, and structurally  far more a part of the chassis than the body--and that firewall tended to dictate the shape and contours of the cowl, often even the forward, perhaps 25% of the body.  Often this worked pretty well--but sometimes, due either to costs or a lack of restyling skill on the part of the particular shop doing the body swap, such conversions did not come off well--but when done on a brand-new chassis, by a reputable coachbuilding firm--certainly overseas--British and European coach builders did make very successful blends of the Model J's signature radiator, hood and firewall into their otherwise significantly regional body styling.

Art

[landman]

Art, that is what I'm planning to do in that gap. I'll bring the cowl to the firewall/hood assembly. However, like you say, changing the cowl back to the windshield might be simpler. I'll try both.

[Art Anderson]

Art, that is what I'm planning to do in that gap. I'll bring the cowl to the firewall/hood assembly. However, like you say, changing the cowl back to the windshield might be simpler. I'll try both.

It probably will look better.  In the bargain, you ought to be able to extend the raised moldings onto the Duesenberg cowling with Evergreen strip styrene as well.

Art

[landman]

Following Art's lead, i cut both cowls off then Mated them together with a gap that I filled with styrene. A butt weld would have been impossible here. 

 

Edited December 25, 2020 by landman

[charlie8575]

This is going to be very interesting.

Charlie Larkin

[Dogfish_7]

Yes indeed! Cool factor!

[landman]

After several coats of different color fillers I think we have a cowl/hood match.

Started working on the engine

 

Edited December 25, 2020 by landman

[landman]

More work on the engine.

Edited December 25, 2020 by landman

[wayne swayze]

Always enjoy your projects Pat! This is very ambitious! 

[landman]

Repaired the broken pin on the rumble seat door.

Edited December 25, 2020 by landman

[landman]

Working on the splash aprons. The cross piece at the rear is just a spacer. It will be cut and the ends will hang on pieces of styrene glued to the frame rails. Will add gussets to reinforce the assembly.

Edited December 25, 2020 by landman

[Eric Macleod]

This looks great. The one thing that I might consider would be redoing the mouldings. Your call of course. 

[landman]

This looks great. The one thing that I might consider would be redoing the mouldings. Your call of course. 

Yes, I intend to bring the hood moulding up to the upper belt moulding. I also plan to make a cowl moulding out of half round.

[Rider]

Looking very interesting. I like the progress so far, looking forward to how you finish this. 

[landman]

We're leaving for a few days, so I thought I'd prime the body so it cures well. It will also bring out all the warts and flaws I'll have to address.

 

Edited December 25, 2020 by landman

[landman]

First update in 2 weeks. Busy, busy, busy. Body work is ongoing

Chassis is coming along. The Lego block is the spacer required  to line up the hood & cowl.

.

Looks like blending the Duesenberg instrument panel to the Rolls/Brewster dash will work

 

Edited December 25, 2020 by landman

[Dogfish_7]

Really enjoying watching your build!

[Eric Macleod]

You probably know this because you seem well versed in Duesenbergs but as a thought,  Duesenberg instrument panels were mounted to the firewall with aluminum brackets and tubes.The wiring ran inside these tubes. You could do something similar by fixing the firewall in place and use the back as a foundation for a mounting bracket.  Attach the instrument panel and fill the gap with a piece of plastic,  ahem, upholstery,  and walla, problem solved.  I personally really like the red chassis. 

[landman]

Sanded the filler on the splash apron. Put it back together to check fit, alignment, etc.So,so. I have to modify the moldings. Wiull likely sand down the flat molding on the hood, remove the flat I added to the cowl and bring the ones on the body forward with half round.

Played a bit with the interior parts.

Edited December 25, 2020 by landman

[mustang1989]

Great work so far Pat. I really like using Lego's in my projects as well. Shop looks killer too!!!!

[Eric Macleod]

You could pull the upper mouldings diagonally over the top of the hood. I've seen some French bodied cars with that sort of treatment. This keeps looking better and better. 

[landman]

Made some filler parts for the dash ends.

Remade the moldings to match the roadster body's.

Edited December 25, 2020 by landman