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AMT Mod Rod question


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I have the original Mod Rod issue and "new" version Ala Kart and combining the two with some scratch work and aftermarket parts should yield a decent result.  I even have a couple of sets of Fred Cady's decals for this.  But, getting ready to close up the model shop until after the move.  BTW, I also have the Franklin Mint Ala Kart.

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That would be an easy fix.
However, I'm now more concerned with the inaccurate body shape that Dave mentioned in his article.
Looking at the box illustration, it indeed does look wrong, so it'll be old school tool all the way for me.

At the moment, I'm thinking the old body shell, hood and nose on the new fenders, frame and suspension, with the old engine and gearbox. The new-tool kit definitely has a better stance than the older one...but I haven't actually looked at what it would take to fix the old one either.

Incidentally, I have a couple of the original issues un-started, as well as a couple of the newer ones, so some serious measuring and cutting (if required) is in my future. But it's too involved a project for me to get into until I clear the decks of several others.

Neither of the Hilborn injection (an important part of the original original) setups are particularly well done either, so some refining and scratching will be necessary there too. Parts by Parks makes a nice set of aluminum stacks, at least.

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The single greatest shortcoming in the "new tool" kit is the ridiculously underscale engine and gearbox.

Whether this was a mistake, or thought to be a necessary "adjustment" (not at all necessary, as the correctly-scaled engine from the old-tool kit fits in the new-tool engine bay) has never been addressed to the best of my knowledge. 

Additionally, people have actually argued about the accuracy of the new-tool engine, expressing endless "opinions" for pro and con.

I've MEASURED the real engine this is supposed to represent, divided by 25, and removed all doubt.

Exactly. Besides the grossly misshapen nose and cowl, the new tool engine is definitely under size. You don't believe me? 12 years ago, The guy who designed the new tool kit - John Mueller  and I measured a real Dodge Red Ram Hemi. (BTW, even John was disappointed with the kit. Racing Champions/Ertl/AMT had finished the project after he'd been 'retired').

 

P8140017

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This is a bit out of left field, but has anyone here tried combining the rear half of the Ala Kart's body with the front half of an AMT '27 T touring to get an accurate '27 roadster body? Of course the turtledeck would be another matter, but it might be good for a bobtail hot rod.

Edited by ChrisBcritter
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This is a bit out of left field, but has anyone here tried combining the rear half of the Ala Kart's body with the front half of an AMT '27 T touring to get an accurate '27 roadster body? Of course the turtledeck would be another matter, but it might be good for a bobtail hot rod.

Well, see, the Ala Kart body shell is a '29 A, so that won't give you a good '27 T.

On the other hand, the T touring CAN be shortened to give an acceptable '27 T roadster shell. I've done it to build an old "little pages" Rod & Custom cover car I've never shown on the forum. :D

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The front - say, mid-door to cowl - of it is '29 A, but the rear half is from a '27 T roadster, according to what I've read about how it was built. So I figured maybe cut it at the rear door jambs and mate it with the front half of the touring body.

You know...you're absolutely right about the rear of the A-Kart shell being '27. I'd forgotten. I don't have any build pix of the A-Kart first time around, so I don't really know whether the rear of the '27 shell was modified or not behind the doors. Of course, if it WAS modified, and IF the kit representation is accurate, you STILL won't get an accurate '27 from combining those bits.

The A-Kart doors have rounded corners like a T, but lack the ribs that normally surround T doors. So what's there isn't pure '27 T, for sure.

There are dimensioned drawings of the '27 T roadster shell available. The thing to do would be to measure everything and see. That was how I determined that shortening a '27 phaeton could yield a decent roadster shell. I'll see if I can easily put my hands on it, as I've already worked it all out.

PS: From looking at an older resin '27 T shell, it appears that shortening the AMT '27 phaeton was exactly how that master was created as well. :D

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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You know...you're absolutely right about the rear of the A-Kart shell being '27. I'd forgotten. I don't have any build pix of the A-Kart first time around, so I don't really know whether the rear of the '27 shell was modified or not behind the doors. Of course, if it WAS modified, and IF the kit representation is accurate, you STILL won't get an accurate '27 from combining those bits.

The A-Kart doors have rounded corners like a T, but lack the ribs that normally surround T doors. So what's there isn't pure '27 T, for sure.

There are dimensioned drawings of the '27 T roadster shell available. The thing to do would be to measure everything and see. That was how I determined that shortening a '27 phaeton could yield a decent roadster shell. I'll see if I can easily put my hands on it, as I've already worked it all out.

PS: From looking at an older resin '27 T shell, it appears that shortening the AMT '27 phaeton was exactly how that master was created as well. :D

I believe Barris Kustoms started with a '28/'29 Model A Roadster Pickup body shell, and replaced the rear,  very squared off section with the rear (tonneau) from a '27 T Touring Car.  They may well have rounded the lower corners of the Model A roadster pickup doors.

Art

Edited by Art Anderson
correction
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I believe Barris Kustoms started with a '28/'29 Model A Roadster Pickup body shell, and replaced the rear,  very squared off section with the rear (tonneau) from a '27 T Touring Car.  They may well have used the doors from that touring body as well.

Art

Art...didn't you cut a '27 T touring shell down to a roadster at one point? Do I remember that correctly?

The doors on the A-Kart are about as long as A roadster or RPU doors, and from an ease-of-fabrication in steel perspective, it would have made a lot more sense to use the A doors so that the front jambs and hinges wouldn't have to be re-engineered entirely. Grafting A rear jambs and latch supports into the T rear body section, to fit the A doors, would be much easier.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Art...didn't you cut a '27 T touring shell down to a roadster at one point? Do I remember that correctly?

The doors on the A-Kart are about as long as A roadster or RPU doors, and from an ease-of-fabrication in steel perspective, it would have made a lot more sense to use the A doors so that the front jambs and hinges wouldn't have to be re-engineered entirely. Grafting A rear jambs and latch supports into the T rear body section, to fit the A doors, would be much easier.

Correct on the '27 T Roadster body--that was pretty easily done, as the steel panel behind the front seat is the same as the back panel of the '27 T roadster in shape and dimension.  I think you may not have seen my correction of my post you quoted--I did that almost immediately after I posted it, to read pretty much what you are saying.

Art

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