Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

This is your other thread asking the same question...

Asking another question is not going to change the answers

Do a search under "3D Printers"...

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/search/?q=3D+printing

This question gets asked every other day on this site. There are a ton of threads available for you to read thru.

Do that, then come back with any questions you may have...

Mark

Edited by astroracer
Posted

There are a number of things you need to know about 3d desk top printers and 3d printing before you invest in one. I don't believe your ready.

Posted (edited)

Looks like the hot tip for ppl wanting to start 3D printing is the Prusa i3 printer combined with Simplify3D software.

Seems like a lot of ppl interested in starting down this road go with this printer.  The reviews on Amazon are cool and it looks like you can pick one up for ~$250 on eBay.

Edited by aurfalien
Posted

Looks like the hot tip for ppl wanting to start 3D printing is the Prusa i3 printer combined with Simplify3D software.

Seems like a lot of ppl interested in starting down this road go with this printer.  The reviews on Amazon are cool and it looks like you can pick one up for ~$250 on eBay.

Not meaning to be an SOB, but I've read so many incredibly stupid reviews of products on Amazon that turned out to be total idiocy (which I found after I bought and used the product) I tend to take anything posted there with a big ol' fat grain of salt. :D

Posted

Not meaning to be an SOB, but I've read so many incredibly stupid reviews of products on Amazon that turned out to be total idiocy (which I found after I bought and used the product) I tend to take anything posted there with a big ol' fat grain of salt. :D

Very true, plus ppl are paid by a company to simply do good reviews of there products.

But after a while, its easy to spot bogus reviews.  However it's good to be skeptical.

This product in particular has some good cross references as well as the decent user forum.  All in all I'd say it's prolly my next big purchase.

Posted

 plus ppl are paid by a company to simply do good reviews of there products.

But after a while, its easy to spot bogus reviews.  However it's good to be skeptical.

I've read more than a few BAD reviews on Amazon (and other places) of products that turned out to be real gems (after I went ahead and purchased them on my own analysis).

My only rational conclusion is that a fair number of people who post reviews on the web are so stupid or inept that they probably can't fry an egg without putting themselves in the hospital.

There's no shortage of people who post modeling "advice" who have no clue as to what they're talking about either.

The "decent user forum" you mention for this particular product should be interesting to peruse.

Do you happen to have a link, so I don't have to take 30 seconds to find it myself?   :D

 

Posted (edited)

I've read more than a few BAD reviews on Amazon (and other places) of products that turned out to be real gems (after I went ahead and purchased them on my own analysis).

My only rational conclusion is that a fair number of people who post reviews on the web are so stupid or inept that they probably can't fry an egg without putting themselves in the hospital.

There's no shortage of people who post modeling "advice" who have no clue as to what they're talking about either.

The "decent user forum" you mention for this particular product should be interesting to peruse.

Do you happen to have a link, so I don't have to take 30 seconds to find it myself?   :D

 

Yep yep, check here;

http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/

Scroll down a bit for the English version.

Seems promising.  Several colleagues use Simplify3D so that takes a bit of guess work out of it, plus they've a 2 week trial.

Edited by aurfalien
Posted

If you buy the original Prussa i3, you can't go wrong. Josef Prussa is one of the original developers of open source filament 3d printers. The printer filament printer I built and is in my avatar is a Prussa i3. Prussa is like the godfather of this type printer. If you just want to get your feet wet and learn what's needed to produce successful 3d prints, this would be a good, inexpensive route to take. But, as you guys are aware, there is a lot of difference in print success and quality between a printer that melts plastic with specifications as a layer height max as low as 50 microns and xy max of 400 microns compared to an sla uv resin cured printer with specifications of a layer height as low as 20 microns and xy of 50 microns, plus does the print in a fraction of the time.     

Posted (edited)

If you buy the original Prussa i3, you can't go wrong. Josef Prussa is one of the original developers of open source filament 3d printers. The printer filament printer I built and is in my avatar is a Prussa i3. Prussa is like the godfather of this type printer. If you just want to get your feet wet and learn what's needed to produce successful 3d prints, this would be a good, inexpensive route to take. But, as you guys are aware, there is a lot of difference in print success and quality between a printer that melts plastic with specifications as a layer height max as low as 50 microns and xy max of 400 microns compared to an sla uv resin cured printer with specifications of a layer height as low as 20 microns and xy of 50 microns, plus does the print in a fraction of the time.     

That's extremely interesting.

Did you print any parts used on your model projects?  If so, I'd love to see some work.

Is it safe to assume a 1/24 car body thickness of say 1-1.5mm being 1,000-1,500µ?

Edited by aurfalien
Posted

I have printed that thickness requirement with both style printers, but the filament printer can only do it flat on the print bed. Then you have to smooth it out. I have printed 1/25th spark plugs with the sla printer that are .5 mm diameter in the verticle position. I also have that thickness on the radiator shell and part of the front fender of my 12th scale 35 Lasalle convertible coupe. These were printer with the sla printer. To get some idea of the 2 different printers, check out this post: modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101922-1935-lasalle-convertible-coupe-3d-printed-at-home-aug-30/?page=1. For something recent, check out this post: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/119256-my-chrysler-a-318-poly-head-engine/.

Posted

I have printed that thickness requirement with both style printers, but the filament printer can only do it flat on the print bed. Then you have to smooth it out. I have printed 1/25th spark plugs with the sla printer that are .5 mm diameter in the verticle position. I also have that thickness on the radiator shell and part of the front fender of my 12th scale 35 Lasalle convertible coupe. These were printer with the sla printer. To get some idea of the 2 different printers, check out this post: modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/101922-1935-lasalle-convertible-coupe-3d-printed-at-home-aug-30/?page=1. For something recent, check out this post: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/119256-my-chrysler-a-318-poly-head-engine/.

Nice links.  I found them informative!

Curious on what you feel would be a good filament to use, I'm assuming ABS which is Lego like.

ABS*

PLA

PET

HIPS

Posted

HIPPS, as in high impact styrene. You have to heat the print bed same as for ABS, but HIPPS prints better and is easier to work with.

Posted

HIPPS, as in high impact styrene. You have to heat the print bed same as for ABS, but HIPPS prints better and is easier to work with.

Excellent, thank you sir!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...