afx Posted February 5, 2017 Posted February 5, 2017 (edited) While I'm in the trailer making business I thought I would also make a lite-weight version. My inspiration. Edited February 12, 2017 by afx
afx Posted February 5, 2017 Author Posted February 5, 2017 I started with just the center section of the trailer from AMT's '76 Caprice kit. Using some solid square rod I fabricated a simple frame. Then removed the tongue from the main frame section and attach to my new frame.
misterNNL Posted February 5, 2017 Posted February 5, 2017 Nice straight basic design that looks good from over here.
afx Posted February 5, 2017 Author Posted February 5, 2017 Thanks Tom. Mounted the springs and added a full axle. Fenders. Current mock-up:
espo Posted February 6, 2017 Posted February 6, 2017 That's a really good looking trailer. I have a question about the axles and since you build 1:1 trailers maybe you could enlighten me on the axle count. I'm building one of the old Revell Ski Boats and it has a single axle trailer. I'm thinking that on a 1:1 build you would need a two axle trailer based on a boat that is around 20 ft. long and has a blown Hemi Chrysler engine. I also noticed the picture that shows your prototype has a two axle trailer for the Cobra. I know we're just building with plastic here but in the 1:1 world wouldn't you want a two axle trailer to support the weight and for stability??
afx Posted February 6, 2017 Author Posted February 6, 2017 (edited) Thanks David. More axles would allow the trailer to carry heavier loads but would also add weight. I think the emphasis is on light weight to give you more options for a tow vehicle. Haven't studied trailer design but I think a single axle can handle a race car on a short haul. A tail heavy boat might require a different solution. Edited February 6, 2017 by afx
afx Posted February 6, 2017 Author Posted February 6, 2017 There are kit options available for a two axle.
plastic trucker Posted February 6, 2017 Posted February 6, 2017 That narrowed trailer looks a whole lot better and closer to being real.
afx Posted February 7, 2017 Author Posted February 7, 2017 Thanks Anton. My ramps had some ugly ejector pin marks and tire melt so I sanded them down and added some cleats made from strip stock.
afx Posted February 11, 2017 Author Posted February 11, 2017 (edited) My simple method of securing the ramps once stowed is a pin welded into place that the ramps slips down over. Also allows for easy stowing access after the car is loaded. Edited February 11, 2017 by afx
1930fordpickup Posted February 11, 2017 Posted February 11, 2017 Another nice looking trailer. I like your ramp placement better with this trailer.
afx Posted February 11, 2017 Author Posted February 11, 2017 Thanks Andy. Made a removable tray to give me some load carrying options.
426-Hemi Posted February 12, 2017 Posted February 12, 2017 Now thats a Auto-Utility trailer! NICE work JC!!!! I might have to SCRATCHBUILD one of these.... I have the basic trailer you started with, BUT scratching this one be a bit easier to do as I wanna use the other as-designed.... NICE work all around here!!!!
slusher Posted February 12, 2017 Posted February 12, 2017 Great looking trailer, what did you use for the solid axle?
afx Posted February 12, 2017 Author Posted February 12, 2017 Great looking trailer, what did you use for the solid axle? Thanks Cary. I used 2.5 mm solid rod.
426-Hemi Posted February 12, 2017 Posted February 12, 2017 There are kit options available for a two axle. JC, I had to quote this posting removing MOST of the pics you had posted but the one I left in the quote of the Revell Race Car Trailer with equipment, I'd LOVE to find one of those trailers complete! (I have pieces of on, just the tongue) but it looks like it be a really GOOD trailer kit!
afx Posted February 12, 2017 Author Posted February 12, 2017 JC, I had to quote this posting removing MOST of the pics you had posted but the one I left in the quote of the Revell Race Car Trailer with equipment, I'd LOVE to find one of those trailers complete! (I have pieces of on, just the tongue) but it looks like it be a really GOOD trailer kit! If it helps John this kit has the same trailer but does not include all the tools and accessories.
Flynlo Posted February 12, 2017 Posted February 12, 2017 (edited) That's a really good looking trailer. I have a question about the axles and since you build 1:1 trailers maybe you could enlighten me on the axle count. I'm building one of the old Revell Ski Boats and it has a single axle trailer. I'm thinking that on a 1:1 build you would need a two axle trailer based on a boat that is around 20 ft. long and has a blown Hemi Chrysler engine. I also noticed the picture that shows your prototype has a two axle trailer for the Cobra. I know we're just building with plastic here but in the 1:1 world wouldn't you want a two axle trailer to support the weight and for stability??Common trailer axle capacities are: 3500 lbs - 5 bolt 15" wheels, 5200 lbs - 6 bolt 15" wheels, 6000 lbs - 6 bolt 16" wheels or 7200 lbs - 8 bolt 16" wheels.Even with the recommended 10-15% tongue weight, the car being carried and the trailer itself would need to be very light to be safely carried by a single axle. This leaves no load margin in hot weather/high speeds where tires usually fail due to heat buildup in the carcass of the tire. (Seen any single axle trailers stranded on the highway in the summer?) ?Also, a pair of automotive tires and wheels typically used on homebuilt trailers don't even come close to the capacities listed above.In the 50s and 60s homebuilt trailers were very common. For engineering and liability concerns, not so much now days. As modelers, we can get away with anything ? However, I have seen many examples in the real world where "if it fits I can haul it" has lead to spectacular failures.Tongue weight is critical to handling. That is why boat trailer axles are located further aft ( engine weight is at the rear). I once witnessed a really nice 69 Nova leave the drag strip loaded about 2 feet further aft than it should have been on a tandem avle trailer behind a 1 ton dually. When the rig hit 55 the trailer started to sway so bad that it went sideways down both shoulders before the driver was able to get it stopped. Thankfully no damage except to the driver's shorts! Edited February 12, 2017 by Flynlo
afx Posted February 12, 2017 Author Posted February 12, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the info Tim. A 289 street Cobra has a curb weight of 2030 lbs. The racing version would weigh a few hundred pounds less. So now I can be confident that I am not overloading my trailer. Edited February 13, 2017 by afx
426-Hemi Posted February 13, 2017 Posted February 13, 2017 JC, that kit still available as yes, it would help!? I'm just unfamiliar with what trailer kits can still be gotten!
slusher Posted February 13, 2017 Posted February 13, 2017 Thanks Cary. I used 2.5 mm solid rod. Thank you sir!!!
mikemodeler Posted February 13, 2017 Posted February 13, 2017 JC, that kit still available as yes, it would help!? I'm just unfamiliar with what trailer kits can still be gotten!Keep an eye out at swap meets or on eBay, they are out there. Revell is about due to reissue one version or another of the trailer.
426-Hemi Posted February 13, 2017 Posted February 13, 2017 Keep an eye out at swap meets or on eBay, they are out there. Revell is about due to reissue one version or another of the trailer. Yeah, I will keep my eyes out but my issue with ebay is the fact I don't have paypal! Very limiting on bids and buys there!
espo Posted February 13, 2017 Posted February 13, 2017 Common trailer axle capacities are: 3500 lbs - 5 bolt 15" wheels, 5200 lbs - 6 bolt 15" wheels, 6000 lbs - 6 bolt 16" wheels or 7200 lbs - 8 bolt 16" wheels.Even with the recommended 10-15% tongue weight, the car being carried and the trailer itself would need to be very light to be safely carried by a single axle. This leaves no load margin in hot weather/high speeds where tires usually fail due to heat buildup in the carcass of the tire. (Seen any single axle trailers stranded on the highway in the summer?) ?Also, a pair of automotive tires and wheels typically used on homebuilt trailers don't even come close to the capacities listed above.In the 50s and 60s homebuilt trailers were very common. For engineering and liability concerns, not so much now days. As modelers, we can get away with anything ? However, I have seen many examples in the real world where "if it fits I can haul it" has lead to spectacular failures.Tongue weight is critical to handling. That is why boat trailer axles are located further aft ( engine weight is at the rear). I once witnessed a really nice 69 Nova leave the drag strip loaded about 2 feet further aft than it should have been on a tandem avle trailer behind a 1 ton dually. When the rig hit 55 the trailer started to sway so bad that it went sideways down both shoulders before the driver was able to get it stopped. Thankfully no damage except to the driver's shorts! Thank you for the info. This is what I also thought. But like you said this is model building and we have a little more leeway as to how we present something. The main reason for the question was a Hemi Hydro build with the kits single axle trailer. I think I'll pass on a two axle conversion because I'm basically lazy.
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