modelmatt Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Just a working progress, some pics of the build I am doing now. More to come as I go along..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Looking good. Those big Lindberg kits have a lot of potential. though it's unlikely any rails were actually built with a pair of Ford Y-blocks, which is what those engines are closest to. Nice work, and looking forward to seeing it come together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkeychomp Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Two V8's? Good grief Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd60 Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 It might be the picture ... and I might be wrong ... but I think the blower drive belt should go to the inside of the tensioner. Both engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 I will be watching. I have thought about getting that kit for 3 or 4 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 It might be the picture ... and I might be wrong ... but I think the blower drive belt should go to the inside of the tensioner. Both engines.You are correct. The tensioner ALWAYS runs on the smooth backside of the belt (the inside of the belt would be toothed to engage the teeth on the drive pulleys). That would probably take the excess slack out of the belts on the model as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp1839 Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 It might be the picture ... and I might be wrong ... but I think the blower drive belt should go to the inside of the tensioner. Both engines.You are correct. The tensioner ALWAYS runs on the smooth backside of the belt (the inside of the belt would be toothed to engage the teeth on the drive pulleys). That would probably take the excess slack out of the belts on the model as well.matt, your drive belt / tensioner arrangements are correct. these two gentlemen are incorrect. if you'd like photographic proof i can supply literally thousands of pictures. love the build!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xingu Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 On the older BDS type blowers, like these, the belt is usually run as you have them. On the newer systems, with serpentine belts, it would more than likely be on the inside of the tensioner.Looking forward to seeing this model progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vintagercr Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 I have two,of those kits. Lasts one I got was at an Ollie's for $19.99 so I couldn't pass it up :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmatt Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 It might be the picture ... and I might be wrong ... but I think the blower drive belt should go to the inside of the tensioner. Both engines.That's true Ted, The drive belt was hard plastic that I covered with black electrical tape. There was no option to run it inside the tensioners. Thanks for the reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmatt Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Thanks for all the input, I thought I put the belts on wrong. They only went on 1 way. I'm trying hard not to screw this build up. The instructions are the worst to work with, I have to take extra time before gluing. I will take more pics as it progresses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 (edited) matt, your drive belt / tensioner arrangements are correct. these two gentlemen are incorrect. if you'd like photographic proof i can supply literally thousands of pictures. love the build!!! OK...I'm wrong. Just goes to show that speaking before double checking makes one look like an idiot. However, in the old days, Gilmer belts were routinely tensioned on the smooth side by some builders, the reasoning being that a vibration was introduced into the assembly from the teeth running over a smooth tensioner pulley. The rest of the reasoning was that the high-frequency vibration could cause early failure of the bearings on the blower snout. Putting the tensioner on the back, smooth side of the belt also gives more "wrap" and tends to engage more of the teeth both on the crank and blower snout pulleys, which has the effect of lowering the loads on individual belt teeth. Though these are the only shots I could find of that arrangement in a 30-second search, I've seen it often, and recently...but I was entirely wrong about "always". Older design belts could be tensioned from either side, but from my research just now, I see that the manufacturers of newer design belts recommend tensioning on the tooth side only. NOTE: I'm NOT arguing with comp1839. He's actively involved with drag-racing today, and knows his stuff. I've been away from the sport for over 20 years. Edited March 8, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 A quick look over on the H.A.M.B shows this street blower set-up on a 292http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/blower-set-up-for-292-312-y-block.441284/Just popped open one of the kits - it has a couple of tan rubber bands for the blower belt and a full 360 degree belt guard on the chrome tree.Matt, I'm liking your project - it's going to make me move mine up on the build schedule. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmatt Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 A quick look over on the H.A.M.B shows this street blower set-up on a 292http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/blower-set-up-for-292-312-y-block.441284/Just popped open one of the kits - it has a couple of tan rubber bands for the blower belt and a full 360 degree belt guard on the chrome tree.Matt, I'm liking your project - it's going to make me move mine up on the build schedule. Dam, I made the belt guard the belt. I thought the bands were just to hold the frame together after it was glued. No wonder the pulleys didn't line up with the so called belt. MY Bad. I should be able to fix. Thanks....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davewilly Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Looks pretty cool so far. I have one of these kits in my stash that I need to build one of these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 (edited) Dam, I made the belt guard the belt. I thought the bands were just to hold the frame together after it was glued. No wonder the pulleys didn't line up with the so called belt. MY Bad. I should be able to fix. Thanks.......The rubber bands probably work better to hold the frame together... I don't like the idea of tension on the rubber band belts pulling the glue joints apart over time on the engine assembly Making a belt (more electrical tape?) might be a better solution - anyways, thank you for the inspiration. - looks like a fun kit. Edited March 8, 2017 by Muncie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd60 Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 (edited) I saw all the slack in the belt and thought it looked wrong. It is loose at both the top cog as well as the bottom. The only thing I could see to tighten it up was the tensioner. I tried to be as gentle and discrete as possible. Sorry to cause a ruckus, won't do it again. Edited March 8, 2017 by tedd60 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp1839 Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 ted, we ALL make mistakes and this board would be worthless if we aren't learning something. let's not forget that the system that you and bill were describing is a setup that was widely used. just not the ONLY system used. the o.p. setup is in fact correct as as is. thank you bill for acknowledging your error. pic of vintage like matt's. pic of modern blown alcohol altered. and just so you know i was thinking of you bill here is a modern alcohol funny car(just a few years ago) you might recognize the name ....frank manzo. he runs a toothed idler (at least when this pic was taken.) . hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr68gts Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 ted, we ALL make mistakes and this board would be worthless if we aren't learning something. let's not forget that the system that you and bill were describing is a setup that was widely used. just not the ONLY system used. the o.p. setup is in fact correct as as is. thank you bill for acknowledging your error. pic of vintage like matt's. pic of modern blown alcohol altered. and just so you know i was thinking of you bill here is a modern alcohol funny car(just a few years ago) you might recognize the name ....frank manzo. he runs a toothed idler (at least when this pic was taken.) . hope this helps. Manzo,...The KING of T/A! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr68gts Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 To the O.P.I would maybe look into a rubber band about the correct size and width if there is one available. Or electrical tape can work also as a belt. Unless you are going for a 100% box stock build (like you were going to go to contest with it) I have one of these started but never got to the engine stage as I never cared for the engines in the kit. It is still a nice kit however and with a little bit of work can be made to look great! Yours is coming out fantastic thus far. Keep up the great work!Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmatt Posted March 9, 2017 Author Share Posted March 9, 2017 Thanks for the great info. Tape is the only solution at this point (pieces glued in place and pulleys are too close to the belt cover) Hopefully I can make it work. Love the pics by the way.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 (edited) I saw all the slack in the belt and thought it looked wrong. It is loose at both the top cog as well as the bottom. The only thing I could see to tighten it up was the tensioner. I tried to be as gentle and discrete as possible. Sorry to cause a ruckus, won't do it again. No "ruckus", nothing to be sorry for. The OP learned something and will have a better model as a result, I learned something (several things, actually) and we're all adults here...at least those of us who appreciate constructive criticism and correct information. Nobody got rude, nobody felt threatened or had to resort to calling names, and most importantly, again, the OP will have a better model as a result of the exchange. If we can't offer helpful advice because somebody might act like a baby, it's a sorry thing indeed. And if you ever see anything that looks wrong on MY models, PLEASE SPEAK UP. Edited March 9, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmatt Posted March 9, 2017 Author Share Posted March 9, 2017 Its all good! Sometimes its too late or too much work to change a mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelmatt Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Clutch Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Lookin good bro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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