LHD Gulf Seven

[John Teresi]

Mark ......Amazing what you do.......WOW!!!!!!

 

[Mooneyzs]

Mark... I had to get caught up on this awesome build, I have missed a bunch...lol  And Holy smoke are your moving along on this. Amazing work that you have done so far. I know it will only get better. Looking forward to seeing more.

Edited July 26, 2017 by Mooneyzs

[Scale-Master]

Thanks guys! 

Chris, I was thinking of our discussions about the belt when I was making it.  I almost did it and the cogs in SolidWorks, but I went old school with what I knew and could do without outsourcing the printing.

[Scale-Master]

The distributor cap was milled from white resin I dyed gray and poured as a blank.  After milling it was polished so it looks like the raw plastic of a real one.

The boots are made of brass.

The base and vacuum advance canister are aluminum.  The bracket is repurposed photo-etch material and the actuating rod is steel.  The cap is just loosely sitting on the base.

[Scale-Master]

Distributor installed with I.D. plate.  The reworked and detailed oil pump is also installed.

[Scale-Master]

What better to replicate silicone plug wire boots than… brass?

[Scale-Master]

Oil pan is ready for installation.  If the molded in bolt detail was done as hex heads I might have just painted them.  But they were round so I shaved them off and made new bolts and washers and some fittings.

[Mooneyzs]

Mark... I totally understand about not out sourcing the printing. I think what you did looks amazing. The distributor and distributor cap look awesome. Love the boots you made from brass for the valve covers. Oil pan looks great too.

[Scale-Master]

Thanks Chris!

 

After a complete tear down and clean up and some modifications, the frame was built up then given a base of Navy Blue.

[John Teresi]

Mark......just gets bettter and better........looks great !!!!

 

[Scale-Master]

Thanks John!

 

Oil filter installed and custom made decals applied to it, the belts and the oil cap…

[John Teresi]

 AWESOME!!!!!!!

[Scale-Master]

Thanks!!!!!

I cut vents into the nose and added a beak reminiscent of a Ferrari or Gurney Eagle.

Rounded corners were added to the scoops.

A coat of primer before hopefully a final sanding.

[John Teresi]

Mark......I like the nose......very cool ......I think it will give it a very cool look.......NICE!!!!!

[Scale-Master]

Thanks John. 

 

The front shocks needed to be reworked because the open snap-fit lower eyes didn't look real.  This one came off the factory built car I've disassembled. 

I had a fresh set of shocks left over from another kit. I cut off those lower eyes and replaced them with brass ones.  Then I cut the pistons off all four top pieces and replaced them with aluminum rod.  The holes that hold the set pins were filled and sanded smooth.  The springs were painted with R/C car body paint to flex and I made Koni decals.  The snubbers were made from silicone and BMF was used for the spring tensioners.  (The rears will be compressed when they are installed.)

[Scale-Master]

The front spoiler is scratch-built from styrene and pinned to the nose.

Fiber texture has been added to the underside.

[Dodge Driver]

Mark, the texture of your parts is always spot-on. There aren't enough superlatives in my vocabulary to describe your work accurately!

[Scale-Master]

Thank you Frank!

 

I got around to finishing the front spoiler.  SMS HiDef C/F decals sealed with clear lacquer and then sanded & buffed out.

The underside will be left raw.  I started fiber-glassing the inside of the nose too.

[Jantrix]

Scale - Master indeed. Just amazing work. Each part is a model in itself.

[Scale-Master]

Thank you Rob, I try...

 

The inside of the nose has been fiber-glassed…

[peteski]

Outstanding!

Mark, is that real fiberglass or are you using some sort of tissue, fabric-softenrer sheet, or similar material?

[Zoom]

This is really great! Every piece is fantastic!

[Scale-Master]

Thanks guys!  The fiberglass material is fabric softener sheets on this one.

 

The aluminum body side panels have to be installed very early on in the construction of the car.  The ones from the factory built car were somewhat bent and dented so they have been straightened out.

Primed in white and a base coat of TS-26 Gloss White applied where the Gulf logos will go.

The blue and white areas were masked off and the TS-12 Orange was applied.

Then the orange was masked and TS-23 Light Blue was applied.

And all the masking was removed…

I didn't like the way the logo came out so I remasked and reshot the orange.

That's better…

Next up the blue and black decals I made for it were applied.

And then sealed with a clear coat.

[Mooneyzs]

Mark... Stunning work my friend. I absolutely love the Gulf Colors on this. Thank you for sharing what you used for the Fiberglass materials. I want to do the same thing on my StageCoach Wheel Stander and was thinking of fabric softener sheets every time I do my laundry...LOL . I had my dad send me some real light weight fiberglass material he had but I know that wouldn't give the Chopped Matt look. Now my next question for you when you applied it did you use fiberglass resin or a thinned out white glue?? One of my favorite details on your engine so far is oddly enough the oil filter. I love that you added the black grip on it and it looks just like the real deal with the decals. Killer work!!!

[Scale-Master]

Thanks Chris!  White glue works, but I found Canopy Glue works better, and yes it is thinned out with water.  Resin is messy, too thick and just a pain to work with in this case.  It also obscures some of the pattern, which if you want to do is easily accomplished with primer or paint.