Ferrari 308GTB Racer

[aurfalien]

Looks great so far, the top of the engine looks convincing considering you scratch built it...!

Hi,

Why thank you sir, very nice of you to say.

Painting exhaust tips white right now.  Using regular old Rustoleum white primer (enamel) that I got for free so as not to waste the good stuff.  Actually the Painters Touch Rusto is good stuff.  Takes about 24 hours to fully cure being enamel and all.

PS My only issue with Painters Touch Rustoleum is that the nozzles always clog.  They sent me a pack of ~20 for free though.

 

Edited October 7, 2017 by aurfalien

[aurfalien]

Hi,

More drama...

I found out that if my base coat or primer coat is not an even color, it effects the top coat.

I had some last minute sanding and used a much lighter primer then the rest of the car.

Well it got splotchy but at least I think I got my final color mix down.

So here is my 5th stripping and EVEN primer coat.  I also decided to cut off the side and front skirts/valence to paint them a different color cleanly.

More tomorrow.

 

 

[Dodge Driver]

Whoa, I missed a few updates... Your Ferrari is looking very good!

[aurfalien]

Whoa, I missed a few updates... Your Ferrari is looking very good!

Hi and thank you sir.

Did my final test spoon spray and was very happy with the results.  My formula;

1/6 Tamiya clear, X22

2/6 Tamiya flat red, XF-7

3/6 Tamiya lacquer thinner

20PSI from a .4mm needle but wished I had my .6mm which is on order.

Perhaps I'll wait for the .6mm before final coat.

Also did final final prep on the body before final coat and made a front wind shield.

No side windows as I'll have Nascar style netting instead.

I don't like spraying at night due to lack of full light and will probably do it in the early AM.  Or wait for my .6mm needle/nozzle/cap.

Edited October 9, 2017 by aurfalien

[Randy D]

The build is looking great Brian !!!!!!  Love the engine piece you built up and those wheels are terrific (after my disastrous advice !)

Lets get some paint on this bad boy !

 

Randy 

[Bernard Kron]

I'm really enjoying following this project. The concept is so cool and the details you're choosing are right on the money. I'm sure they'll guide you to a successful conclusion. Waiting to see more, more, more...

[aurfalien]

The build is looking great Brian !!!!!!  Love the engine piece you built up and those wheels are terrific (after my disastrous advice !)

Lets get some paint on this bad boy !

 

Randy 

Hello Monsignor Randy and thank you!

Well, after more practice and reading, turning down the pressure to ~18PSI is better.

However once I get the bigger needle (going from .4mm to .6mm) I'm sure things will change yet again.

I've also removed the rear wing to bring back the nice line of the rear again as the 308 had a nice trunk line for sure.

I'll post pics of my proposed wing which will be above the trunk and a little forward.

[aurfalien]

I'm really enjoying following this project. The concept is so cool and the details you're choosing are right on the money. I'm sure they'll guide you to a successful conclusion. Waiting to see more, more, more...

Hello and thank you sir.

I'll post more pics tonight and thank you for the encouragement.

[Dann Tier]

How's the 308 coming along?

[aurfalien]

How's the 308 coming along?

Hi,

Powering through it my friend, powering through it.

My final color I think anyways.  I'm aiming for just a touch of satin but otherwise velvety.  Will try and spray tomorrow night as I'll be setting up 4 rather nice 5000K daylight bulbs tonight for night time painting.

I have a wing picked out and will build arms for it tonight.

 

[Dann Tier]

Hi,

Powering through it my friend, powering through it.

My final color I think anyways.  I'm aiming for just a touch of satin but otherwise velvety.  Will try and spray tomorrow night as I'll be setting up 4 rather nice 5000K daylight bulbs tonight for night time painting.

I have a wing picked out and will build arms for it tonight.

 

Sounds great!!!!   had a very busy week myself doing stuff around the house, but its totally killed my motivation to get back into my Pagani.  Thinking about just forcing myself to just go work on it now.

[aurfalien]

Sounds great!!!!   had a very busy week myself doing stuff around the house, but its totally killed my motivation to get back into my Pagani.  Thinking about just forcing myself to just go work on it now.

Hi,

Yea man, go have some fun.  Once you get started. you'll remember what fun it is. 

[Dann Tier]

Hi,

Yea man, go have some fun.  Once you get started. you'll remember what fun it is. 

You are right that sometimes to me its NOT fun, but i will try......Thanks, bud!.....Keep up the GREAT work!...cant wait to see more!!

[aurfalien]

Hi,

Not the smoothest AB session as I was very tired form work today.

But it's 3 very light coats which I will continue with tomorrow.

The spoon has the same treatment followed by transparent orange which I will apply to the body once the flat red top coat is done.

Spraying a spoon is very different then an entire body which I struggled with.  However the body is buttery smooth so far which is what i was after.

Do you all spray a body in sections or at at once?  Man it's tough if one wants a perfect finish.

[Dann Tier]

LOOKING GREAT!!!!

[Dann Tier]

Hi,

Not the smoothest AB session as I was very tired form work today.

But it's 3 very light coats which I will continue with tomorrow.

The spoon has the same treatment followed by transparent orange which I will apply to the body once the flat red top coat is done.

Spraying a spoon is very different then an entire body which I struggled with.  However the body is buttery smooth so far which is what i was after.

Do you all spray a body in sections or at at once?  Man it's tough if one wants a perfect finish.

Me personally, I paint the whole thing at once. I start on the bottom edge of the rocker, spray back and forth up the full side till I reach the top of the door, flip it around and do the same with the other side, then I sprat under the front clip -back and forth all the way up the hood, roof, trunk, ad finally all the way to under the rear bumper. I repeat when coats are necessary. I do it this way, because for me I don't get "dry spray", and by the time I get back around I can safely do another coat. If I'm spaying the headliner, that is what I would spray first.

[aurfalien]

Hi,

As the world burns over here.

At any rate after my dozenth stripping, I have what I think is my final set of coats.  Below is a my first coat, 1 slow/medium pass only.

I went with plain old Tamiya X-7 red and there thinner.

I was trying things above my pay grade and I need to get the basics down first.

I'm waiting an hour before applying more coats.  It seems the only way I could get smooth orange peel free and grain free paint was to lay down a wet coat as follows;

25 PSI

6-8" away

50/50 paint:thinner (X-20A)

Few drops of Liquitex Flow-Aid and Slow-Dri

 

What an ordeal as painting usually adds weeks to my finished builds.  Horrible!

I'm thinking of buying Don Yost DVDs but they are pricey.  Are they worth it by chance?

The thought of painting almost makes me wanna quit.

Do you all think this is a good first coat?

Edited October 21, 2017 by aurfalien

[Mixalz]

I paint much the same way as Dann described.

I've been having awesome luck with lacquer paints thinned for airbrush and would highly recommend their use for future builds. These include Tamiya rattle cans which have been decanted. Personally I love Mr Levelling Thinner as it has a mild retarder inside it which just works wonders.

With acrylics I always find they give a textured surface no matter how smooth the primer. I literally only use them for hand painting now. The bonus advantage of using lacquers is that hand painting details over it never affects the underlying paintwork (just thinner and a cotton swab to remove errors; over even a dry toothpick; it is that durable!!!). Also you don't get paint chipping as lacquers are durable..

Sorry if that this info doesnt help the current build but dont give up!

[aurfalien]

Hi and thank you sir.  I'll make a note for upcoming builds for sure.

I ran out of paint towards the end of my second coat.

Debating weather to use clear red to finish it up or leave as is.

At any rate I put the hood in temporarily as a motivator to keep going.

Once the decals are on, I'll hit it with a satin or flat finish as its a tad too shiny.

 

[Dann Tier]

Definitely DONT give up.......it looks good!!

[Mixalz]

Nice fitment looking good sir

[aurfalien]

Hi and thank you sirs for the encouragement.

I'll keep on as I must get to my commemorative build soon, itching to start.  The afternoon was progress finally.

Tamiya acrylic glosses seem tricky to AB.  My orange behaved a lot better but I didn't want to spray my car full on orange.

[aurfalien]

Hi,

More drama, jezuz!

At this point I've stripped it down so many times, what's a few more right!

At any rate I was using rivet decals to place on various parts of the body when I found the decal solution sorta eating away at the Tamiya X-7.  Boy you all were not kidding about this paint being delicate.

All I had was the hot decal solution and not mild BTW.

At any rate I rinsed off the decals and found bare spots were red was.  I used flat red XF-7 as I ran out of X-7 and blended it in.  I then did a Pledge treatment.

Wayyyyyy tooooo shiny but I'll tone it down once decals are on.

I'm chalking this all up to being a newwwwwwwB!

Front looks a bit off but I'll wait and see once it's dried.

 

Edited October 23, 2017 by aurfalien

[Ace-Garageguy]

You may have a problem getting decals or flat clear to stick to something that's been Pledged. I'd suspect any paint you try to shoot over it will pretty much explode in fisheyes.

Edited October 23, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy

[aurfalien]

You may have a problem getting decals or flat clear to stick to something that's been Pledged. I'd suspect any paint you try to shoot over it will pretty much explode in fisheyes.

Hi,

Darn really?

Well I'll soon find out.  Total bummer.

I do plan to flatten Pledge via Tamiya flat base and use it for my top coat, picture a satin finish (1 part flat base to 15 parts Future).  I won't use any decal setting solution and only use warm water.

PS I just read this on a forum which I think is brilliant;

I'm going to point out a specific thing I used to do wrong: You don't soak the decal, you just dip it for a couple of seconds and then set it on a paper towel for long enough that you can slide it off the paper. Soaking it will dissolve all the adhesive and then it won't stick...

Edited October 23, 2017 by aurfalien