Bleed thru question?

[raisin27]

Having just painted a Firefighter Mustang kit and dealing with the bleed thru of the red plastic I was wondering how you guys deal with it? Tried something new this time........ I layed a coat of future on the car before priming it with limited success.

Just curious as to how others are solving this problem?

Raisin

[Zoom Zoom]

Steve Milberry to the white courtesy phone!

Zinsser B.I.N. shellac-based primer/sealer, comes in a spray can or pint/quart/gallon cans for mixing. Spray can is easier to use if you decant the stuff and airbrush it.

You MUST lay down a coat of some sort of primer or paint onto the plastic first, before applying the BIN. BIN doesn't like to stick to plastic nearly as well as it sticks to any other paint. Once the BIN is applied, it sands beautifully and can be covered by other primer or paint. It's white, it's bright, it doesn't spray as nice as lacquer but it sands easier than any other primer, down to a nice powder, and it seems impervious to bleedthrough of color or ghosting of mold lines or bodywork from lacquer paints. It's also alcohol-based, so it's much less toxic than the urethane based primer/sealers like Variprime that some builders practically demand that you use (to your own peril). I found those toxic sealers to not work as advertised, so the Zinsser was a nice surprise to actually work, be actually fairly inexpensive, and fairly non-toxic, and easily found at Home Depot/Lowes/hardware stores.

I haven't tried Future yet, I'll test it one of these days, but I do trust the word of those who say it works. I use hobby lacquers most of the time, so sealers really aren't necessary unless I have some serious bodywork, a nasty color to cover, and am using automotive grade lacquers.

[robertw]

I've tried both the Future and Bin Zinnser to seal plastic and found the latter to work the best. While Future cut down the amount of bleed it didn't stop it totally but the Bin did. I sprayed the Bin from the rattle can and it goes on very heavy although as stated it does sand down easily. I picked up a quart of it and the paint store recommended Methyl Hydrate as a thinner so the next time it's needed I'll be airbrushing.

RobW

[MrObsessive]

Hmmm..............I've had just the opposite-----I tried BIN but found it to be WAY too heavy for my tastes, whereas I've used Future and it's worked for me everytime.

The key to Future is you have to build it up to where it's a glossy, shiny finish just like you see on your floor. Yet Future always cures to the point where it doesn't bury details.

One example of Future being a success for me is this.....................

Some folks have a hard time believing that this was once a red plastic kit.............

Edited June 17, 2008 by MrObsessive

[Zoom Zoom]

Hmmm..............I've had just the opposite-----I tried BIN but found it to be WAY too heavy for my tastes, whereas I've used Future and it's worked for me everytime.

The key to Future is you have to build it up to where it's a glossy, shiny finish just like you see on your floor. Yet Future always cures to the point where it doesn't bury details.

One example of Future being a success for me is this.....................

Some folks have a hard time believing that this was once a red plastic kit.............

Do you spray the Future? Decanted BIN sprays a lot different than Future, which is much thinner, and is so thin it tends to run if I'm not very careful. BIN doesn't spray nearly as smooth, either, but it sands so easily and to a very nice surface that I'm not concerned if it's not a perfect coat of sealer; it's merely a vehicle to block the solvents and it does it's job well.

BIN out of the spray can is awful. It's got a terrible texture, the nozzle is worse than anything Testors uses, and it tends to have a lot of stray droplets; it's really intended for heavy-duty work on rough wood, not fine detail on a model. Airbrushing it is important. I had some lying around from another project when I learned about it's uses for models. I decided to do the acid test for it for my primer article and as I had found on other projects, it really works. I should try some Future as well, since it's just as easy to find and it isn't as messy to spray, if one remembers that it seems thinner than water when it's sprayed!

[MrObsessive]

Do you spray the Future? Decanted BIN sprays a lot different than Future, which is much thinner, and is so thin it tends to run if I'm not very careful. BIN doesn't spray nearly as smooth, either, but it sands so easily and to a very nice surface that I'm not concerned if it's not a perfect coat of sealer; it's merely a vehicle to block the solvents and it does it's job well.

Yeah Bob, I airbrushed the Future................The key is lower pressure on your compressor and quicker passes. Also I'm using a Badger Crescendo 175T and I have all three tips. The finest tip works best for spraying Future.

If it does run, you can always hand brush away the runs on the edges, since it doesn't leave brush strokes if done soon enough.

I've also been using it on the newer Revell releases as they've developed a reputation for crazing due to the soft (read:cheaper) plastics they've been using the last few years. Particularly true if you want to use actual automotive paint to replicate 1:1 colors.

If you can get the Future to look like this.................

You shouldn't have a problem. This hood is from the '06 Revell Mustang and the car was painted with 1:1 automotive paint (Dupont '05 Sonic Blue) and I had no crazing.

Yeah, I know I did an '06 'Stang in a '05 color but don't tell anyone!

[cruz]

Hey Bill, forget about the tutorial and just keep showing us all your beauties!!!! No, I don't mean your old girlfriends, I meant your models!!! No, that the girl models, your plast..... ahh, what the heck!!!!

[MrObsessive]

:lol: :lol:

[Guest Gramps-xrds]

Bleed through, usually happens when the base color or plastic contains a dye base color. True pigments don't usually bleed because their either organic or other. Candy colors are the main source of dye based colors, to make them transparent. In the early yrs of candys, they wouldn't last more than a yr or 2 at the most. They would fade totally till there was nothing but the base metalic left, because they didn't have a UV stabilizer in them. Now days there's UV stabilizer in almost everything. An easy way to check the base is to wipe it w/ some thinner. If the towel turns color, it has dye in it, if it doesn't then it don't and should be no problem.