James2 Posted May 4, 2018 Share Posted May 4, 2018 (edited) Like many of us I never could build one model at a time. So while working on the Johnny Cash Roadster and a couple others! I began working on this Corvette. My favorite driver has always been AJ Foyt and knowing that he had a hand in the GS project only inspired me more to build a model of his car. Grand Sport Corvette and AJ Foyt what better combo could there ever be... The VRM decals look great... Why they molded the hollow frame this way we may never know. But I did manage to get things filled in using styrene rod and plastic filler. One thing I changed is the battery location. This took removal of the spare tire and the frame mount for the kit battery location/ Re assembled... Edited August 13, 2018 by James2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizard Racing Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 With all the fine detail in the kit, there are lots of small parts. I have several sets of VRM decals for Corvettes and they are great. For research, I recommend the book Corvette Grand Sport by Dave Friedman. It is a go-to source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismaelg Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 Great start! I hope to start on mine soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 I'll be following. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James2 Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 Thanks guys, I'm not committed to stay after this one just yet. I need the research and a few things to set up since the move. I will be looking for that book though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D. Battista Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 23 minutes ago, James2 said: Thanks guys, I'm not committed to stay after this one just yet. I need the research and a few things to set up since the move. I will be looking for that book though... I have that book James...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James2 Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 See I knew I could find it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Woodruff Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 Looking forward to more updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 Tip for filling in the slots on the chassis: Instead of using plastic filler and/or rods, use Magic-Sculpt, or some other similar two part epoxy putty. Just squeeze the Magic-Sculpt into the cavities and, using a wet finger, smooth the epoxy down to match the contours. The putty doesn't shrink when dry and there isn't the possibility of warpage as there is when using solvents to bond the styrene rods. Once the epoxy is dry, you'll only need to use a medium sanding stick/ paper for final shaping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 If memory serves, Accurate Miniatures indicated they deliberately molded the frame that way to prevent shrinkage due to the amount of plastic that would have been needed to create a solid frame. When their site was active, they had a tips section that mentioned this and suggested one use plastic rod as a filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 4 hours ago, SfanGoch said: Tip for filling in the slots on the chassis: Instead of using plastic filler and/or rods, use Magic-Sculpt, or some other similar two part epoxy putty.... Excellent advice. I'd tend to stay away from "bondo" (polyester) types of fillers for this, as they can warp during initial cure if the substrate isn't absolutely rigid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James2 Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 2 hours ago, Jonathan said: If memory serves, Accurate Miniatures indicated they deliberately molded the frame that way to prevent shrinkage due to the amount of plastic that would have been needed to create a solid frame. When their site was active, they had a tips section that mentioned this and suggested one use plastic rod as a filler. I agree, but why do so on the visible side! 1 hour ago, Ace-Garageguy said: Excellent advice. I'd tend to stay away from "bondo" (polyester) types of fillers for this, as they can warp during initial cure if the substrate isn't absolutely rigid. Yes also, I used a combo of styrene and liquid cement. And by fitting all the styrene then glueing it suffered no warps. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Hamilton Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 I think your build will be fine. I have one of those started. The paint on the body did not work out right, so it has to be repainted. I used plastic rod and super glue to fill the voids in the chassis. That worked out well after some putty work to blend it in. I also used the Model Car Garage detail set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James2 Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 I have the chassis in primer and have begun assembling the engine. I was able to pick up a new Paasche VL dbl action on sale at H.Lobby for the great price of $35. I can finally do some paint work. DB let me borrow his book so this project can continue... Pix to follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James2 Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 (edited) OK, referance book in hand and cleaning up parts for primer. The chassis needs a little more smoothing but I'm happy with it. Edited July 25, 2018 by James2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 I have the Friedman book as well - great reference for these cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizard Racing Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 I someone had the time and resources, several of these kits could be built reflecting the different configurations under which these cars raced. There was Nassau '63 (Mecom), Sebring '64 (three versions) and Sebring '65 with the big block engine. It's all in the book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordlover632 Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 Looks good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 This is looking great!!, I have the Accurate Miniatures version, so I will be following!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 Excellent reference pics on the restoration of Corvette Grand Sport #004 here. 6 hours ago, Lizard Racing said: I someone had the time and resources, several of these kits could be built reflecting the different configurations under which these cars raced. There was Nassau '63 (Mecom), Sebring '64 (three versions) and Sebring '65 with the big block engine. I'm fortunate to have both. I plan on building all of the various versions. I have nine of these AM kits and am always on the prowl for another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 (edited) 5 minutes ago, SfanGoch said: ... I have nine of these AM kits and am always on the prowl for another. I bought a small boat load a couple years back when somebody was blowing out old stock cheap with unassembled boxes, no PE. It's a fantastic kit. Edited July 25, 2018 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Might be the same ebay seller I bought some from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James2 Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 I'm having fun now... So I do have the PE parts and can figure out what most of them are. But some pieces leave me wondering. It looks like the best way to use the rear oil cooler is to remove the molded on one and fab up my own lines. I'm curious to know if there is an instruction sheet availible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 I'm assuming you have kit No. 5000, Corvette Factory Racer. PE assembly and placement is shown in the instruction sheet. If I saw this thread early into the construction, I would've recommended Model Car Garage's MCG-2086 Corvette Grand Sport Multimedia Detail Set. This set contains everything, including a resin oil cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James2 Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 Thx Joe, the PE I have came supplied with the kit. I have both the Revell and A.M. kits. I'm kinda hoping to find a copy of the instructions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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