afx Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 Is the T-Bolt the correct wheelbase? Might be an easier conversion.
gtx6970 Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 Thunderbolt is considerably shorter. I think it was missing link made this car in sedan body style. There was a plastic kit made back then ( maybe a promo ) ,,,only needs the sedan window frames added ( I have one to do just that )
gtx6970 Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 Something like so, and fyi, I dont think I paid this much for mine last year. So deals are out there. You just have to be patience https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Ford-Galaxie-2-Door-Coupe-Dealer-Promo-Car-Excellent/323260788013?hash=item4b43d82d2d:g:bKAAAOSwJpda8iYZ
Brutalform Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) . Edited August 5, 2018 by Brutalform .
Brutalform Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) On 5/18/2018 at 10:38 AM, gtx6970 said: Thunderbolt is considerably shorter. I think it was missing link made this car in sedan body style. There was a plastic kit made back then ( maybe a promo ) ,,,only needs the sedan window frames added ( I have one to do just that ) Edited June 9, 2018 by Brutalform
Brutalform Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 Btw... this build has been on the bench for several months. So I have patience... lol
Force Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, afx said: Is the T-Bolt the correct wheelbase? Might be an easier conversion. 2 hours ago, gtx6970 said: Thunderbolt is considerably shorter. The Fairlane/Thunderbolt is much shorter as you say Bill, but not only that, the Fairlane is a unibody and the Galaxie/300 has a frame so it woun't work anyway. So the '60 Starliner chassis is the way to go. Edited May 18, 2018 by Force
gtx6970 Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 1 hour ago, Brutalform said: Yea, maybe put this resin body aside and get a styrene “promo” kit like the one you posted. Are they styrene, or are they like a different kind of plastic. I’d be afraid to running into the same problem with putty not drying even after two weeks. I’d hate to buy yet another one to have the same problems. Yes, they are stryene. I have a stryene builder kit( little tougher to find than the promo. finding a distressed promo is easier ,,,and typically cheaper $35 to $40 is about right. You can find them for less, but condition usually dictates lower price . There is one on ebay now for less, but has missing A pillars https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Ford-Galaxie-2dr-Hardtop-Promo-car/202308929382?hash=item2f1a8d4766:g:SBkAAOSw~RFa8ziC
Brutalform Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) On 5/18/2018 at 2:09 PM, gtx6970 said: Yes, they are stryene. I have a stryene builder kit( little tougher to find than the promo. finding a distressed promo is easier ,,,and typically cheaper $35 to $40 is about right. You can find them for less, but condition usually dictates lower price . There is one on ebay now for less, but has missing A pillars https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Ford-Galaxie-2dr-Hardtop-Promo-car/202308929382?hash=item2f1a8d4766:g:SBkAAOSw~RFa8ziC Edited June 9, 2018 by Brutalform
Brutalform Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, Force said: The Fairlane/Thunderbolt is much shorter as you say Bill, but not only that, the Fairlane is a unibody and the Galaxie/300 has a frame so it woun't work anyway. So the '60 Starliner chassis is the way to go. Yes.. A Fairlane chassis is not an option. I already got some work into this with the Starliner chassis. I use this chassis for all the Galaxies up to 65. Then they switched to coil springs, if I’m not mistaken. Edited May 18, 2018 by Brutalform
gtx6970 Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 Just now, Brutalform said: Thanks Bill... I would think removing the trim, and rear quarter stripes would be a lot easier on a styrene body. I dunno... I guess when I can find a decent promo, that might be the way to go. And just build something else with the resin box top. Just hit me, and something to keep in mind. The kit ( if you can find one ) the hood is open. On a promo the hood will be molded in. And will require a bit more work . BUT its very doable. ( I did one on a blueprinter version of the galaxie I have stashed away )
Brutalform Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) On 5/18/2018 at 2:33 PM, gtx6970 said: Just hit me, and something to keep in mind. The kit ( if you can find one ) the hood is open. On a promo the hood will be molded in. And will require a bit more work . BUT its very doable. ( I did one on a blueprinter version of the galaxie I have stashed away ) Edited June 9, 2018 by Brutalform
Brutalform Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) . Edited June 9, 2018 by Brutalform .
FrankO Posted May 18, 2018 Posted May 18, 2018 If you still have the ruined resin body, why don't you try some two-part automotive putty putty on it in a discreet location. If it works, you might even be able to save the first body shell. Good Luck!
Brutalform Posted May 19, 2018 Author Posted May 19, 2018 (edited) On 5/18/2018 at 5:44 PM, FrankO said: If you still have the ruined resin body, why don't you try some two-part automotive putty putty on it in a discreet location. If it works, you might even be able to save the first body shell. Good Luck! Edited June 9, 2018 by Brutalform
SSNJim Posted May 19, 2018 Posted May 19, 2018 I generally use JB Weld for my rough bodywork on both resin and styrene, then modeling putty for finishing. It is pretty strong and seems to add some amount of rigidity.
TarheelRick Posted May 20, 2018 Posted May 20, 2018 Sounds like you are having a real dilemma. Other than what has already been suggested my only thoughts would be to very carefully begin sanding and pay very close attention to body thickness. As far as the ghosting, once the trim is sanded away spread a layer of thin super-glue, let it dry thoroughly then smooth it out with fine sandpaper. I have never tried this process, but have read on this and other forums it works quite well. Good luck with it.
Brutalform Posted May 20, 2018 Author Posted May 20, 2018 (edited) On 5/20/2018 at 7:52 AM, TarheelRick said: Sounds like you are having a real dilemma. Other than what has already been suggested my only thoughts would be to very carefully begin sanding and pay very close attention to body thickness. As far as the ghosting, once the trim is sanded away spread a layer of thin super-glue, let it dry thoroughly then smooth it out with fine sandpaper. I have never tried this process, but have read on this and other forums it works quite well. Good luck with it. Edited June 9, 2018 by Brutalform
hack-n-whack Posted May 29, 2018 Posted May 29, 2018 Brutalform, if you don't mind my asking, where did you get that resin body? Who makes it? Thanks for your time & info on this. Hack-n-whack AKA Tom
Brutalform Posted May 30, 2018 Author Posted May 30, 2018 (edited) On 5/29/2018 at 3:43 PM, hack-n-whack said: Brutalform, if you don't mind my asking, where did you get that resin body? Who makes it? Thanks for your time & info on this. Hack-n-whack AKA Tom Edited August 5, 2018 by Brutalform .
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