When to apply BMF

[m408]

I've got a decent paint job going and am about to try my first BMF application. Do it now? Or after clear coating?

Your thoughts.

Also, either way, how long to wait? Paint and clear coat are Model Master custom lacquer system.

[CAL]

I've got a decent paint job going and am about to try my first BMF application. Do it now? Or after clear coating?

Your thoughts.

Also, either way, how long to wait? Paint and clear coat are Model Master custom lacquer system.

I always like to do it now, and then clear over it. It helps protect it, helps keep it on the body because it will fall off, and it helps the the over all look.

[Harry P.]

Lacquers dry quickly. No need to wait much longer than a day or so (It'll be dry sooner, but better safe than sorry).

You can apply the foil over the paint and then clear the whole works, or clear the paint and apply the foil last... it's a matter of personal preference. I do the foil last, and don't clearcoat over it, because I feel it looks more realistic to leave the foil "bare". Most "chrome" trim on a car from the 50s, 60s and 70s that we foil, like windshield moldings, side spears, etc. is actually polished stainless steel on the real car, and it isn't really quite as shiny as true chrome plating, like you'd see on a bumper, for instance...so to my eye the "buried under clear" look of BMF is a little "modelish" looking most of the time. And in 30+ years, I've never ever had a piece of foil "fall off". But as mentioned, some people like to do the foil first and then top off with clear. It's really up to personal preference...whichever look you prefer. Either way works fine.

But in some specific cases the "chrome" trim would be quite shiny (like the vacuum-plated plastic trim on late model cars), so burying the foil under clear in that specific instance would be a good idea. Look at photos of the real car as reference, and notice the different levels of shine the trim has, and alter your technique accordingly.

[Zoom Zoom]

I have never clearcoated BMF and contrary to what people believe, it won't just "fall off" unless it's already got too little adhesive when you apply it. If it's going to fall off, it happens then. I like to be able to polish it out after being applied; this looks far more realistic than if it's clearcoated. Models I've detailed with BMF since 1981 (when I discovered it) still look great.

Try both methods, and whatever floats your boat, stick with it. It will work either way, so you are the best person to make the determination what looks/works best for you.

[Olle F]

As already said, BMF doesn't fall off, but I have had a problem with the drip rail trim on some cars. I usually move my models by grabbing the edges of the roof, and it the trim is real thin it kind of tends to slide a little bit, leaving the trim a bit crooked. Clearcoating the BMF would take care of this problem, but being more careful would of course be a good alternative too.

Anyway, I have clearcoated the BMF on a few models that had a lot of thin and fragile BMF strips (like on a '58 Impala), and it sure seems to help when you handle the model, dusting it or if you for some reason have to polish the paint again.

[curt raitz]

Milt

Ya can do it before or after clearcoating...try it both ways and chose the one ya like best

I've done it both ways, prefer putting it on after a clearcoat...does retain a metallic look and ya can polish it

the stuff doesn't lift if applied properly, paint has to be clean...be careful with how ya handle the model...oil from your fingers can comprimize the adhesive

but like evrything else in this hobby...it will stick really hard when ya don't want it to and slide right off when it ain't s'posed to...kinda like super glue

c'ya

Edited August 19, 2008 by curt raitz

[62SS]

I usually clear over the BMF just to insure that it doesnt move or fall off when handling or cleaning the model, However I have applied it over clear it the past without a problem. Some sheets of BMF just dont seem as sticky as others. Also, I only use BMF brand. I've tried Testors brand and it leaves a sticky film on the model where you peel it off. Just my opinion.

Ed

[Raul_Perez]

I apply the BMF after all of the paint and polish work is done. If you do a good job cleaning the model BEFORE you apply the BMF, it sticks really well.

I often use Windex to specifically clean any polishing or wax residue from wherever the BMF is going to be applied. Don't use IPA to clean the model after it's been painted. IPA is a GREAT paint remover for Testors, Tamiya and many other enamel and lacquer paints.

Good luck, Milt!!

[Eeyore]

What about BMF'ing a bare resin part such as an injection hat or blower case, even a moon tank? Should the parts be cleaned in anything first? Any tips?

[Raul_Perez]

What about BMF'ing a bare resin part such as an injection hat or blower case, even a moon tank? Should the parts be cleaned in anything first? Any tips?

The cleaner the part, the better the stuff sticks!!

[kerc]

...Don't use IPA to clean the model after it's been painted...

I usually drink my IPA.

[Harry P.]

I usually drink my IPA.

mmmmmmmmmmm....beer............

[JAFFA]

What about BMF'ing a bare resin part such as an injection hat or blower case, even a moon tank? Should the parts be cleaned in anything first? Any tips?

Well, i would primer it as well as cleaning it, primer is a miracleworkef for adhesivity!

[E St. Kruiser50]

Yeah, I think it's mostly personal preferance, after some trial and error. I'm like some here, I like to apply the BMF after the clear-coat and the polishing. Usually the BMF doesn't stick to well after the polish and waxing, and I've noticed some sheets of foil have more adhesive than others, so I use MICROSCALE Micro Metal Foil Adhesive and it works great. Never a problem as long as you don't let it dry to long. Here's a project I used the ashesive on and it "stayed put" really well.

[Eeyore]

Another question. I have a rim that is flaking and has a number of sections of 'chrome' missing. What can I do about this? Is there something I could soak it in to remove all the factory covering and then apply BMF (this will be quite difficult I am guessing considering the intricate shape of a mag wheel) or should I be going for another approach entirely.

Kurt.

[E St. Kruiser50]

Another question. I have a rim that is flaking and has a number of sections of 'chrome' missing. What can I do about this? Is there something I could soak it in to remove all the factory covering and then apply BMF (this will be quite difficult I am guessing considering the intricate shape of a mag wheel) or should I be going for another approach entirely.

Kurt.

Good question

Most everyone has their own thing that works for them. Mine is straight bleach or Wesley's Bleach White. Kit chrome can vary, so if one stripper doesn't work well or at all, usually the other one does.

The wheel? Me, I'd just get another one, or strip all four and use Alclad.

Hope this helps ya - Dave

Edited August 28, 2008 by Treehugger Dave

[John Goschke]

I prefer to foil after all the paint is on and polished. Looks more realistic that way.

[billd64]

when i have clear coated after sanding paint with millenium polish grits from 4K or 6K to 12K, i wash it off thoroughly in dawn dish detergent, air dry, then clear a week or so to dry, as it dries from inside out. then I would BMF. I would wash the model down, allow dry time, and then BMF with fresh no.11 blade and patience, and Q-Tips. good luck

bill

I've got a decent paint job going and am about to try my first BMF application. Do it now? Or after clear coating?

Your thoughts.

Also, either way, how long to wait? Paint and clear coat are Model Master custom lacquer system.

[Eeyore]

Thanks Dave for your response to my dilema. The other 3 wheels are in good condition so I guess it may be worth asking in the wanted section for a 4th. I'd prefer not to strip the all of them but I may still try and recover the damaged wheel with some foil. I wonder if I will have any difficulty with the more intricate shape, particularly with getting the BMF to stay down?