Working with photo etching

[American 185 Heavy]

Is there an easy way of applying small photo etched parts specifically nomenclature and ornaments on a body side of a model without pulling your hair out ?? The small stuff like trunk lock bezels and tiny dash parts always give me a nightmare. Don't want to ruin the paint job or the part as the model would be incomplete to me without. Thank you in advance !!

[oldnslow]

I use a small amount of clear nail polish to attache PE . 

[Ace-Garageguy]

For the parts you mentioned, I like to use a tiny dot of PVA "white" or "canopy" glue. It contains no solvents that can inadvertently damage paint, it dries crystal clear, and it stays wet long enough that a part can be repositioned slightly for a few moments to get it dead-on. It also removes entirely with water when it's wet, if necessary, without leaving a mark on paint.

Only downside is that, for instance, if you attach a side-script, you really need to have the model on its side as it dries, so the part won't slide out of position.

[MrObsessive]

Here's a trick I picked up on years ago from I believe Larry Booth. Heat a candle and when the wax starts to liquify, dip a toothpick into the melted wax. The wax on the tip acts as a picker-upper and for really small stuff like letters or door locks for instance, it works well as tweezers can send those things flying!

As far as what to attach it with, I've had good success with Tamiya clear acrylic, or Future Floor Wax. The only downside is those can contain alcohol which can hurt the surrounding finish if you're not careful.

[aurfalien]

10 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

For the parts you mentioned, I like to use a tiny dot of PVA "white" or "canopy" glue. It contains no solvents that can inadvertently damage paint, it dries crystal clear, and it stays wet long enough that a part can be repositioned slightly for a few moments to get it dead-on. It also removes entirely with water when it's wet, if necessary, without leaving a mark on paint.

Only downside is that, for instance, if you attach a side-script, you really need to have the model on its side as it dries, so the part won't slide out of position.

I second the Canopy Glue, fantastic product.

I also cannot have enough praise for Tamiya HG Angled Tweezers as they work wonderfully for anything especially PE.  I even use them to pick up hair off my blazers for the hell of it.  My wife looks at me and says "just use a lint roller"

 

[Tom Geiger]

Before I cut small pieces off the fret, I’ve backed them with a piece of Scotch Tape to keep them in place once cut free. I’ve also placed them on the model on same tape as it’s big enough to hold onto and since you can see through it, you can place the part. Then it holds the part in place until it dries, then carefully peel off.

i also like canopy cement.

[aurfalien]

24 minutes ago, Tom Geiger said:

Before I cut small pieces off the fret, I’ve backed them with a piece of Scotch Tape to keep them in place once cut free.

Ah, this is a great idea, thank you.

[Ace-Garageguy]

12 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

Here's a trick I picked up on years ago from I believe Larry Booth. Heat a candle and when the wax starts to liquify, dip a toothpick into the melted wax. The wax on the tip acts as a picker-upper and for really small stuff like letters or door locks for instance, it works well as tweezers can send those things flying!

Another similar handling trick: put a drop of rubber cement on the tip of a toothpick. When it's dry, there's just enough sticky left to pick up a tiny PE part, which you hold down on the model with another toothpick as you withdraw the first one.

This does require having the model supported solidly however, unless you're lucky enough to have three or more hands.

[Exotics_Builder]

I have used the foam cradle for a model railroad engine (G scale if you can find it) for detailing work such as PE, decals and touch up.  If needed, I will bolster with microfiber or other soft materials.

[BigTallDad]

1 hour ago, Tom Geiger said:

Before I cut small pieces off the fret, I’ve backed them with a piece of Scotch Tape to keep them in place once cut free. I’ve also placed them on the model on same tape as it’s big enough to hold onto and since you can see through it, you can place the part. Then it holds the part in place until it dries, then carefully peel off.

i also like canopy cement.

The sticky section of a Post-It note also works well, and is easier to remove than tape.

[American 185 Heavy]

On ‎12‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 7:25 PM, MrObsessive said:

Here's a trick I picked up on years ago from I believe Larry Booth. Heat a candle and when the wax starts to liquify, dip a toothpick into the melted wax. The wax on the tip acts as a picker-upper and for really small stuff like letters or door locks for instance, it works well as tweezers can send those things flying!

As far as what to attach it with, I've had good success with Tamiya clear acrylic, or Future Floor Wax. The only downside is those can contain alcohol which can hurt the surrounding finish if you're not careful.

Thank you Thank you Thank you !! Wow it works like a charm and creates no mess at all !! And after attaching all my tiny emblems today, still have all my hair on my head !!!

[PeeBee]

I use Microscale Liqui-Tape.  It's thin and flows onto the part nicely.  It dries into a non-liquid adhesive surface; it's definitely a rubber cement but not as thick out of the container.  You still have to be reasonably careful when positioning the part in as that the Liqui-Tape has a slight "memory" (as does rubber cement) if you try to adjust the part with a nudge after you've burnished it down; lightly position the part and then burnish when you have the part alightned to your liking.  This adhesive provides plenty of adhesion for small scripts, etc.