Straightliner59 Posted January 4, 2019 Posted January 4, 2019 Looking at the engine for my junior fueler, I noticed this on the front cover...it's corrosion/rust! I didn't put it there (obviously, the cover would be aluminum, so, why would I? ). I sprayed the part with Testors metalizer, many years ago. I'm not sure what the yellow is, but, the reddish-brown is rust. Therefore, I have concluded that some of the pigment was iron. Anybody ever seen this, before?
Casey Posted January 4, 2019 Posted January 4, 2019 Looks like someone ran a mix of Dex-Cool and ethylene glycol coolant in that engine at some point and one of the hose connections leaked. Time for a tear down and inspection.
Straightliner59 Posted January 4, 2019 Author Posted January 4, 2019 36 minutes ago, Casey said: Looks like someone ran a mix of Dex-Cool and ethylene glycol coolant in that engine at some point and one of the hose connections leaked. Time for a tear down and inspection. Hahaha! It does!
rsxse240 Posted January 5, 2019 Posted January 5, 2019 It makes sense that a metalizer would rust as metal flakes are used in this product. Sure, you used "aluminum" but it was probably mixed with several other types of metal to get the tint they were looking to achieve. When metalizer isn't sealed with clear, it is exposed to humidity and acts like metal. Magnesium will turn gray, aluminum will turn white, steel and iron turn rust red, etc.
Straightliner59 Posted January 5, 2019 Author Posted January 5, 2019 I'm pretty sure I sprayed it with Testors semi-gloss clear. That metalizer is way too frail to be handled, without some sealer coat. I knew the red was iron oxide, I just wasn't sure what the yellow was. Oh, well, it's taken a purple bath, and rinsed off, now!
El Roberto Posted January 5, 2019 Posted January 5, 2019 Hmmm.....You may have a discovered a cool way to rust vehicles.
Dave G. Posted January 5, 2019 Posted January 5, 2019 Looks like some of my wood working tools after a humid summer.
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 5, 2019 Posted January 5, 2019 (edited) 15 hours ago, rsxse240 said: It makes sense that a metalizer would rust as metal flakes are used in this product. Sure, you used "aluminum" but it was probably mixed with several other types of metal to get the tint they were looking to achieve. When metalizer isn't sealed with clear, it is exposed to humidity and acts like metal. Magnesium will turn gray, aluminum will turn white, steel and iron turn rust red, etc. 1 hour ago, Straightliner59 said: I'm pretty sure I sprayed it with Testors semi-gloss clear. That metalizer is way too frail to be handled, without some sealer coat... I have to strenuously disagree. I've been using this stuff for decades, and never had anything happen like what you have here. The "buffing" metalizer will simply turn to silver paint if it's clear-coated. but if it's allowed to dry thoroughly prior to buffing, and then allowed to dry very thoroughly without subsequent handling, it eventually gets hard enough to handle with no damage, and will maintain its "polished metal" appearance. I live in a habitually high-humidity environment, and shot this cowling (NOT the cockpit cover) about two years back. It still looks exactly like this. No clear, and can be handled with no fingerprints. EDIT: AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH, I find that apparently Tamiya X-22 can be misted over buffing metalizers to seal them, without killing the effect, prior to decaling. This is said to be superior to using Future. I'll certainly be following this up with experimentation. Edited January 5, 2019 by Ace-Garageguy
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 5, 2019 Posted January 5, 2019 Here's an old thread on sealing and clearing metalizers...
Straightliner59 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Posted January 6, 2019 8 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said: I have to strenuously disagree. I've been using this stuff for decades, and never had anything happen like what you have here. The "buffing" metalizer will simply turn to silver paint if it's clear-coated. but if it's allowed to dry thoroughly prior to buffing, and then allowed to dry very thoroughly without subsequent handling, it eventually gets hard enough to handle with no damage, and will maintain its "polished metal" appearance. I live in a habitually high-humidity environment, and shot this cowling (NOT the cockpit cover) about two years back. It still looks exactly like this. No clear, and can be handled with no fingerprints. EDIT: AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH, I find that apparently Tamiya X-22 can be misted over buffing metalizers to seal them, without killing the effect, prior to decaling. This is said to be superior to using Future. I'll certainly be following this up with experimentation. Thanks, Bill. We're semi-arid, here, so , it should cure out even more quickly. Have you ever experimented with the old aircraft modelers' technique of rubbing metal powders into an undercoat? They used varnish, but, I'm guessing gloss black would work great, as well (perhaps using base coats of different sheens could alter the finish, creating more possibilities). I used it over a clear varnish, inside one of the '90s Revell dragster bodies, just to try it out. It looks pretty convincing. I don't think I ever had the patience to wait for the metalizer to cure completely, so, I overcoated it, to keep working! Thanks for the link you posted, too. Like the old saw goes; "The more you know..."
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 6, 2019 Posted January 6, 2019 (edited) 14 minutes ago, Straightliner59 said: ...Have you ever experimented with the old aircraft modelers' technique of rubbing metal powders into an undercoat? They used varnish, but, I'm guessing gloss black would work great, as well (perhaps using base coats of different sheens could alter the finish, creating more possibilities). I used it over a clear varnish, inside one of the '90s Revell dragster bodies, just to try it out. It looks pretty convincing... Interesting you mentioned that. Here's some more trickery I happened on at the same time I found the Tamiya X-22 reference...colored chalks. https://sonorandesertmodelbuilders.com/xp-47-technique.php Edited January 6, 2019 by Ace-Garageguy
Straightliner59 Posted January 6, 2019 Author Posted January 6, 2019 3 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said: Interesting you mentioned that. Here's some more trickery I happened on at the same time I found the Tamiya X-22 reference...colored chalks. https://sonorandesertmodelbuilders.com/xp-47-technique.php That P-47 looks great! You can never have too many ways to simulate/replicate metal finishes. I bookmarked that. It's going into my bag of tricks! Same goes for the grey-black spectrum--the more options you can create texturally, and tonally, the better. Thanks for the link.
Richard Bartrop Posted January 8, 2019 Posted January 8, 2019 (edited) Copper and gold paint will tarnish. I've painted things copper that ended up with greenish fingerprints all over it before I wised up about clearcoats. Edited January 8, 2019 by Richard Bartrop
Straightliner59 Posted January 8, 2019 Author Posted January 8, 2019 (edited) Wait, what?! Gold doesn't tarnish! :-D By the way, I grew up not too far south of Calgary, just south of the border, in Browning, MT. Edited January 8, 2019 by Straightliner59
Richard Bartrop Posted January 8, 2019 Posted January 8, 2019 Of course gold doesn't tarnish, but of course they don't use real gold in the paint. I'm going to guess it's brass.
Straightliner59 Posted January 8, 2019 Author Posted January 8, 2019 4 hours ago, Richard Bartrop said: Of course gold doesn't tarnish, but of course they don't use real gold in the paint. I'm going to guess it's brass. That would be my guess, too. I was being a smart arse!
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