Airbrush soak?

[Dave G.]

8 minutes ago, Kit Basher said:

For whatever reason, the instructions for Auto Air say do not use heat, just moving air. That's why double action is so nice. You don't have to put the brush down. Spray a light coat of paint, blow air for 30 seconds, repeat. This stuff has a very steep learning curve, and I'm just getting started, but if I ever get the hang of it I think it will be amazing.

 I bet is has a cool setting with no heat output, my wifes does.

Auto Air has a leveler too, I forget the number off hand, you really want that and the thinner/reducer. There is an instructional video online where a rep takes you through the steps. I think I ran into it under a search something like "airbrushing AutoAir paints" or some such thing.

Edited January 18, 2019 by Dave G.

[Dave G.]

For Kit Basher, here is the AutoAir video; 

 

[Kit Basher]

29 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

 I bet is has a cool setting with no heat output, my wifes does.

Auto Air has a leveler too, I forget the number off hand, you really want that and the thinner/reducer. There is an instructional video online where a rep takes you through the steps. I think I ran into it under a search something like "airbrushing AutoAir paints" or some such thing.

I have no wife, and no hairdryer.

Yeah, I have watched a lot of videos, and read a lot of instructions. There is a leveler involved, as well as a reducer. Getting the proportions right is what I'm working on. One thing I have learned is that if you thin it to the consistency you would use for enamel or lacquer, the paint will break and turn to mud. Finding the level where it sprays well without breaking is my current challenge.

Thanks for the video. It came in as I was typing. I have seen that one and others. At this point, I think there is no substitute for trial and (lots of) error.

[peteski]

I have owned a Badger 200 for over 30 years and I would never soak it in anything!  The air valve has rubber seals which will be ruined by things like lacquer thinner!

This AB has a very easy access to all the paint passages (which is the only areas you need to clean out).  On the bottom you can pull of the paint bottle or paint cup, then unscrew and remove the needle, then on the front you can unscrew the tip protector and the nozzle (those are 2 separate pieces) . At this point you gained full access to all the pain passages. Just don't  lose any of the nylon washers. 

I would then use pipe cleaners with lacquer thinner or acetone to clean out all the paint passages and inside of the nozzle. Cotton swabs can shed fibers which will get stuck in the threads of the airbrush body (where the nozzle screws in).  I would also use a pipette with the solvent to flush out all the debris loosened by the pipe cleaner.

I have done such a thorough cleaning only about half a dozen times in those 30 years.  But I don't use water-based acrylics and I thoroughly flush the airbrush with lacquer thinner after each use.

One thing I want to mention is that you might need a fresh nylon Teflon seal (the white ring) for the back part of the nozzle. The original one gets compressed and it might not tightly seal the air passage from the paint passage, and the AB will not spray well.  I bought few spares after the first time I cleaned it and realized what the problem was after reassembly.

Edited January 24, 2019 by peteski

[Kit Basher]

5 hours ago, peteski said:

I have owned a Badger 200 for over 30 years and I would never soak it in anything!  The air valve has rubber seals which will be ruined by things like lacquer thinner!

This AB has a very easy access to all the paint passages (which is the only areas you need to clean out).  On the bottom you can pull of the paint bottle or paint cup, then unscrew and remove the needle, then on the front you can unscrew the tip protector and the nozzle (those are 2 separate pieces) . At this point you gained full access to all the pain passages. Just don't  lose any of the nylon washers. 

I would then use pipe cleaners with lacquer thinner or acetone to clean out all the paint passages and inside of the nozzle. Cotton swabs can shed fibers which will get stuck in the threads of the airbrush body (where the nozzle screws in).  I would also use a pipette with the solvent to flush out all the debris loosened by the pipe cleaner.

I have done such a thorough cleaning only about half a dozen times in those 30 years.  But I don't use water-based acrylics and I thoroughly flush the airbrush with lacquer thinner after each use.

One thing I want to mention is that you might need a fresh nylon seal (the white ring) for the back part of the nozzle. The original one gets compressed and it might not tightly seal the air passage from the paint passage, and the AB will not spray well.  I bought few spares after the first time I cleaned it and realized what the problem was after reassembly.

Thanks for your comments, Peter! When I soaked the AB I removed all the parts you mentioned, as well as the air valve. That leaves just the bare body with no O-rings or seals in it.

Like you, I have had no problem keeping the brush clean by flushing with LT after each use, as long as I was using solvent based paints. However, the brush was clogged with water based paint, and that's what started this mess.

I also keep a supply of the nylon seals. They're a relatively cheap and easy way to keep the AB tuned up.

[Tommy124]

TBH when discussing whether to or not to soak an AB in cleaner etc., I was assuming that it's about an AB equipped with teflon seals. If there are rubber seals involved, soaking is of course a no-go.

[peteski]

Yes, I meant Teflon when I wrote Nylon.  Those are Teflon seals.

[Kit Basher]

23 hours ago, Tommy124 said:

TBH when discussing whether to or not to soak an AB in cleaner etc., I was assuming that it's about an AB equipped with teflon seals. If there are rubber seals involved, soaking is of course a no-go.

As I mentioned to Peter, when I soaked the AB, I removed the air valve, which does have rubber O-rings, and the teflon washer from the tip. As far as I can tell, those are the only O-rings or seals on this brush. Soaking the brush worked well, and I believe it is totally clean now. Thanks for your input!

[peteski]

On 1/24/2019 at 8:31 AM, Kit Basher said:

As I mentioned to Peter, when I soaked the AB, I removed the air valve, which does have rubber O-rings, and the teflon washer from the tip. As far as I can tell, those are the only O-rings or seals on this brush. Soaking the brush worked well, and I believe it is totally clean now. Thanks for your input!

There is another Teflon seal where the needle enters the paint cavity.  But being Teflon, it is solvent-safe.

[Kit Basher]

8 hours ago, peteski said:

There is another Teflon seal where the needle enters the paint cavity.  But being Teflon, it is solvent-safe.

Thanks, Peter. I wondered about that. It makes sense that there would be a seal there. Is it accessible/replaceable?

[George Bojaciuk]

I use acetone to clean my airbrush. Pour a bit into a cup, drop parts in and let sit while I clean the rest. I have found that lacquer thinner has an oily feel to it now. Had experienced some fish eyes. When I was at Eastwood, we always recommended acetone. I've owned my Badger since the late seventies and only recently replaced the o ring. I use to teach a monthly class at Eastwood and my airbrush was used extensively. Cleaned thoroughly, every time.

For problem units, Naked Gun works really well. I cleaned out my detail gun after using urethane. Spotless! 

One caution on pipe cleaners... Cheapies use regular steel. Over time and in a damp environment, they will rust. I have an Eastwood cleaning kit and love it.

....and no, I do not work at Eastwood any longer. I just like their stuff!

If there is an interest, I'd be happy to do a column on airbrush care.

Edited February 4, 2019 by George Bojaciuk

[Tommy124]

1 hour ago, George Bojaciuk said:

If there is an interest, I'd be happy to do a column on airbrush care.

There always is, as far as I'm concerned! But it will be hard to stop me from using that dental floss care stuff... 

[George Bojaciuk]

I never try to convince! Only share what I do and what’s worked for me! To quote “Snake”...floss on!

Edited February 4, 2019 by George Bojaciuk

[peteski]

18 hours ago, Kit Basher said:

Thanks, Peter. I wondered about that. It makes sense that there would be a seal there. Is it accessible/replaceable?

Yes, I have replaced it once in the 30-odd years that I owned the airbrush.  I did that when the needle could be reinserted into the airbrush with almost no resistance. But I don't recall if it pushes out through the front or the rear.

[Kit Basher]

6 hours ago, peteski said:

Yes, I have replaced it once in the 30-odd years that I owned the airbrush.  I did that when the needle could be reinserted into the airbrush with almost no resistance. But I don't recall if it pushes out through the front or the rear.

Thanks, Peter. It seems like it would have to come out the rear. A good reason to remove the needle from the front, rather than dragging paint thru that seal.

FYI to anyone interested: I purchased a heavy tip and needle kit for a 150, hoping to convert my 200 to heavy. The tip fits fine, but the needle is too short. I also have a 150, so no biggie for me.

[Mike999]

These are much better than pipe-cleaners IMO, smaller and no metal. G-U-M Soft-Picks, available at Wal-Mart, CVS etc. etc.